My recent new system with pix

I've posted this on caraudio.com... but if you read the vehicle fire thread, you'll understand why I'd rather have your opinions and/or input on this:Relevant info:I have an 01 Intrepid with the ES package. This is my first install... except for the HU.. I've installed one of those before. I also installed some replacement 69s on an 86 olds cutlass, but that was so ridiculously easy I refuse to list it as previous car audio experienceHere's what I want to install:- Kenwood eXcelon x790 HU ( http://www.sonicelectrnix.com/item_6497.html )- Infinity 60.7cs 6.5 component system (with crossover) ( http://www.sonicelectrnix.com/item_4295.html )- Infinity 693.7i 6x9 3-way speakers ( http://www.sonicelectrnix.com/item_4219.html )- MA Audio M489I 4-channel amp (specs: http://www.sonicelectrnix.com/item_2676.html )Here's what I have to install it with:- Connector wires From Intrepid wiring to common wiring for HU- mounting bracket for x790 to Intrepid- 0 gauge Stinger Custom Pro SWK0 ( http://www.sounddomain.com/item/STISWK0 )- extra speaker wire- Stinger Helix series interconnects: http://www.cardomain.com/item/STISHX417FIRST DAY DOWN12 straight hours working.. starting from 4:30 in the afternoon to 4:30 in the morning... I'm freaking beat. I had a friend helping for most of it, but he's been gone for an hour and a half, and I sent him down here to search some stuff and rest for about an hour and a half previously. I have pictures.. but I need some freaking rest. My hands and arms are cut up... and yeah.. I ache all over lol.What's done:- HU install (done months ago)- 0 gauge run, (CLEAN) attached to distro block in back, connected to amp.- Ground from amp to chassis hooked up- stock amp removed- front speaker wires from stock amp spliced to speaker wire and run to back- RCA and amp power control wires run to back (CLEAN) - RCA cable fixed when I pulled too hard and it snapped insides of sheathing (let's hope it's fixed at least)- 6x9s installed (including crossovers)- speaker wire attached to 6x9s- all speaker wires and RCAs attached to amp- 1 front door removed.... that's about when my arms gave out and I couldn't pick anything up.To do:- Install 6 1/2s - install tweeters- hook everything to crossover- hook crossover to existing wiring- officially attach the 0 gauge to pos terminal on battery- clean up trunk wires.- replace floor board panels (need to pick up some new plastic gromets first- Post picturesDAY TWO DOWNI was SIIIIICK today for most of the day. Woke up and was feeling about 20% most of the day. Around 8 though, w/lots of medication, rest, and recouperation, I had almost enough energy to start working again. Had another friend help me w/the crimping, because my hands were like bitch please" when I tried to crimp... lol. I got it to the point where I actually fired the system up though... I'll post the results belowWhat's Done:- both front doors installed (tweeters in sails, 6.5s in the door, crossover hooked up)- COMPLETELY re-did engine 0 gauge wiring. Wasn't quite long enough, and the wire kept slipping out.To do:- fix crossover mounting- fix channels- fix front passenger 6.5- clean up trunk wires.- replace floor board panels (need to pick up some new plastic gromets first- Post picturesSo.. I turned it on and.... it worked!!! kinda!!! If you remember about my RCA, I was worried about it not working because it basically was ripped in half and I had to re-splice everything. All 4 channels worked, so I'm good to go. However, all of the speakers are messed up. The front goes to the back speakers, back to front.. and I think side to side is also messed up. GG MA audio not listing where each of the 4 channels should go to. They literally just show 4 speakers attached to the amp in their diagram. No F/B L/R at all. Not a big problem though.The other thing is that my passenger 6.5 doesn't work. Could be a few things.. either the connection to the speaker is bad, or the connection to the crossover is bad. Better damn well not be a bad speaker tho or I shall be unhappy. I do, however, know that that channel is getting a signal, because the tweeter DOES work.Finally, I heard a lot of rattling in my driver side door, and I'm pretty sure that was the crossover, because I ghetto rigged it to the door like a pet monkey.Also... I didn't exactly get a good feel for the system.. clearly because of the problems listed above.. but I'm not exactly sure that I'm pleased w/the sound that came out.... I guess I'll just have to hook everything up CORRECTLY and see if it works.INSTALL DONE: Problems questionsHere's full details on everything I had to install and how/when I did it: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166066Problems:1) getting some (physical) buzzing around front speakers2) back speakers distort at about half volume3) Get a high pitched shrill that is equal to how fast my engine is reving, only when audio system is engaged. It's not that loud, but it's constant volume, so it's noticable when the system is turned down4) After about half an hour of use, amp was hot as FAAAACCKCurrent amp settings:fronts: mid-high onlyback: fullgains (both): 1/3rdPossible fixes:1) Dynamat/remount speaker/crossover/grille2) Possibly cut out top of the back covering and just use grille for speaker (as it currently stands the top of the back covering MIGHT be touching the top of the speaker, which would interfere w/the physical movement of the cone.. possibly3) I believe I've isolated it to the RCA that I screwed up, and I have a 4 channel stinger helix set coming in soon that will HOPEFULLY fix that problem!4) NO CLUE - PLEASE HELPAny and all help is appreciated. Keep in mind, I am a noob. This is my first install w/runnig wire. This is my first install w/an amp of any kind whatsoever. I'm sure I made some noob mistakes.ThanksBegining the process:Kickpanel for stock amp (this is mostly for the dodge intrepid ppl who need to know where this is):0 Gauge run from battery to back:Re-wire from the stock plug to speaker wire for the front stage:My wiring idea to be able to thread the wires easier under the carpet:Replacing the 6x9s:

This thread says one thing to me. Give props to your local professional installer! It's hard work man, if you don't believe it, try doing one yourself.There is no such thing as free installation!

Relevant info: I have an 01 Intrepid with the ES package. This is my first install... except for the HU.. I've installed one of those before. I also installed some replacement 69s on an 86 olds cutlass, but that was so ridiculously easy I refuse to list it as previous car audio experience

I am impressed with your "stick-to-it-ive-ness". (Is that a word?) You seem to be willing to get your hands dirty, AND do things right. That hardly qualifies you as a "noob" (a negative connotation in my book, BTW). That's a compliment. The only thing I would change, would be the "crimp-on" stamped out ground terminal to a higher quality (Stinger, or similar) CAST brass, with setscrew terminal. You spent good money on cable and gear, why choke it out, using a realtively low current capacity, cheezy, crimp-on terminal? (Do this on both ends, BTW... you'll be glad you did, I think) You have a desire to do things correctly, and you will be happy with this system! Keep up the great work, and you will be even happier with it, because you DID IT YOURSELF! Also, AWESOME photos... I always SAY I'm gonna do photos for pretty much ANY job I work on, but I never do...It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

phrozt wrote: For the crimp on thing... you're talking about the last picture right?  That's actually what stinger provided in their kit.  They provided one screw terminal, which I used for connection to the battery, but all the others were crimp ones.  Also, that's kind of a ghetto rig, because I ran 1/0 gauge back, but I used 4g from the distro block to the amp, and therefore a 4g ground from the amp to the chassis.  So that's a 1/0g crimp on crimped to a 4g wire.  I pounded the snot out of it w/a hammer though... it's not going anywhere.. trust me!! lol.  Or... were you talking about something else when you said "ground terminal?"

No, that's what I was referring to... However, I am not actually referring to the physical connection. A crimp can be fine, mechanically, and if done correctly... I am referring to the additional resistance provided by the little bit of metal between the wire and the actual ground contact. It is WAAAAYYYY smaller, electrically speaking, than the #4 you are connecting to it, isn't it? It might not be a tremendous aditional resistance, but every little bit counts, right? Also, yes, you should fuse ANYWHERE you go from one gauge of wire to a smaller one, so yes, you are correct. Couldn't you use a fused distro block? Might be prettier...It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

I was going for something quick and easy to get it up and going... besides, I'm going to have to replace it later, because it goes from 1/0g to 4 4g outs... and I'll be needing something more than that when I get my sub in (plan on putting in a 06 xxx @ around 2k watts RMS).  Is it legal (in terms of physics) to do this tho??  Taking 1/0g back and running out a 1/0g wire and a 4g wire from it?