2000 expedition remote starter

Hey guys new member here, I am trying to get some questions answered about this install into my wife’s 2000 Ford Expedition.

Seems the Code alarm 530 fits a lot of vehicles, and the factory alarm and  remote entry were made by them for Ford.

I am using the 530 because I "got a deal" ... and so far so good on the install but I have some questions Code Alarm isn't answering or can't. Like  why I need relays for the lock/unlock inputs outputs, when there is a door unlock module that controls these with the remote or by the switch. Or is it because this is a 5 wire system dual stage unlock meaning if you hit the unlock once it unlocks the driver ,twice it does all the doors. And that will cause feedback to the relay module?

Also  11/b there is an external Start Trigger that will apply positive or negative "pulse"? to it from an external device.

What the hell does that mean ,? I am an older Master Tech that doesn't work anymore due to back injuries and failed surgeries so cut me some slack..lol Do I need this to make it work.? What does it go to?

It just seems there is a redundant amount of wiring connections to this ca530 ,that could go to the factory alarm. Do I keep the factory alarm? The instructions are very wishy washy about this. and the Customer service guy said it should replace it, which makes sense to me ,just use the existing wires and tap into them because they are right there. Granted I still need to run the starter circuit and PAS bypass but do I need the relays for the door locks?

Do I need a relay for the 10c active output for the "optional component" requiring a ground signal at start up when the vehicle is running in remote start? And then I need a 1 amp diode for that...is that where the “PATS” - ground when running ,wire goes? That actually would make sense...

I have nothing against following instructions ,just the nomenclature they use is insane,Do they really think that wording this in engineering terms will stop the average Joe from installing these? I just don't get why they have to be so technical.. :)

Ok  Sorry for venting...ha ha

I have rewired many vehicles,i did electrical wiring and diagnosing for years for Ford and Toyota and then Lexus before I blew my back out,but for those of you doing this for a living my hat goes off to you ,you have way more patience than i do.

If you can .please send me a kind word on how to proceed with out worrying about frying some of these ECM"S and costing more than having someone else do this, which I now wish I had. I would appreciate any help you can offer and would try to return the favor in the future for anyone in need.

Thanks guys

Gary

garylgreco@mchsi.com

First, I need to know if this "alarm" you speak of is a "factory alarm" or a "dealer installed alarm." If it is dealer installed and you are not concerned with it, I would remove it and use the other piece as the controlling unit. You don't need relays for locks if you are using the thin guage pink yellow and pink green. external start trigger wire not required. Code is known for being in the stone age with much redundant wiring. What bypass are you using for the PATS. you will need a ground while running for whatever bypass you use. PM me or post if you have any more q's. Good Luck

It is a dealer installed factory alarm . The PAT"s I have is the CAXK04 - PKFORD firmware.

And in the wiring diagram for it it says to use a ground while running connection ,which appears to me that I will have to install a relay that of some sort that actuates when the remote start is in use only. Does that make sense to you ? Is there any other way to make that connection ?

I don't see a need for just the driver door unlock function,I guess in case of some intruder maybe? I really don't see why I just can 't hook up the all unlock only.  If you think  need to for reason let me know I am open to suggestions.

Funny the wife is now making fun of how long this is taking, she says by the time I finish this it will be spring time. Well we now live in Savage, Minnesota just south of Minneapolis area and believe me it supposed to get -21 tonight after being 43 yesterday so I think she will get some use out of it this winter....

Thanks for your insight and help

Gary

You are correct on that active output wire,which ,really why don't they just say in the install instructions that this will be a ground when running in the remote start mode.  i could never understand why the don't just explain these terms in common sense ways to people. While I was working for Toyota we often found errors in the manual,but most were do to translation, not because they were trying to make it difficult . One thing about the factory engineers if you gave them an idea how to make something work better and made it sound like it was their idea ,well let me tell ya you could just about get anything you wanted from them. They appreciated our input a ton,and showed great respect for the technicians working on the cars. I hope you guys get that support from these after market vendors.I don't know where these are made ,but it sure would be easier for you installers tif hey were more "thorough" in their description of these items ,that  I am sure of!!

And the unlock all wiring is a done deal,i hated hitting that thing twice anyway,the wife accused me of playing lock out every time I drove her car...lol

Going over the fuse install i see they have a slot to plug the fuses in either with a + input or - input.

When I asked the customer service rep about this he said "i can change that in programming" ,then why is it set up that way? Any thing I should now about that before i get into the programing or is the manual pretty good about going over that?

Thanks again

Working on it as we email...

Gary

Horn will not chirp after trying to activate. Door trigger is good,connections are in the right place. It will start with the key. No light at the led either.