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viper 211hv, 2002 toyota camry


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rey830 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: March 17, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: March 17, 2008 at 5:39 AM / IP Logged  
Greetings all, and thank you in advance for any help!
I'm installing the Viper 211hv in a 2002 Toyota Camry.
So far, here's what I got: I have tapped the constant 12 volt at the ignition harness, grounded to the chassis, and mounted the remote module under the dash running the LED and valet switch to the coin cup holder located to the left of the steering column. So far, so good, as when I push lock I hear clicking at the module and the led flashes, unlock I hear more cliking, and the led light stops. Now the hard part:
I'm at the driver's kick panel and I can't figure this out!
I'll try to explain this as detailed as I can so you get the picture. I found a wiring diagram that shows the camry's lock/unlock wires are light green and GREEN/ red. I found those two wires at the kick panel. Basically there are three harnesses at that location, order from top down: white, gray, and blue. The two wires are at the blue harness, right hand side if you were staring at them from the brake pedal. So I used my 6/12volt probe and touched the two wires one at a time. Voila, when I touch one the car doors unlock, touch the other, the car doors lock. Great...not so much. When I hooked up the grn/blk lock #30 common output and blu/blk unlock #30 common output to those wires, pressed the fob buttons, nothing worked.
So I tried the lock/unlock #87 wires, nothing worked.
Just for grins I swithced them and tried all sorts of combinations, nothing worked.
Oh, and I decided not to hook up the domelights, horns, and the trunk would be nice, but optional at this point! So, I figure I'm working with these wires:
grn/blk lock #30 common (output)
wht/blk lock #87 normally closed
violet/blk lock #87a normally open (input)*
*This one is two violet wires coming from the module, connected together with a violet wire unlock #87 normally open (input) at a fuse, and then one violet/blk wire. It looks important...
brn/blk unlock #87a normally closed
RED / wht (-) output of channel 2 (trunk?)
and the blue "progressive unlock wire" (-)200mA second unlock output
So, just for grins again, I decided to hook up the blue progresive unlock wire to the car's unlock wire. When I hit the unlock fob button twice, it unlocked the doors Yea! However, when I close and lock the car, I can't open it with the fob unless I use my key to unlock the driver's door first. If I do that, then hit the unlock fob button twice, all the doors open.
I feel like I'm so close, and if pictures would help please let me know and I'll post some. It looks like Frankenstien down there, but I just want it to work. Thanks for your feedback and suggestions.
Twelvoltz 
Platinum - Posts: 2,384
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: March 24, 2005
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: March 17, 2008 at 6:50 AM / IP Logged  
Ground the violet and violet/black input wires, then reconnect those #30 wires. You had no supply to the vehicle lock wires, hence no locking and unlocking.
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
rey830 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: March 17, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: March 17, 2008 at 5:13 PM / IP Logged  
Thank you Twelvoltz!  I did as you said, and it works!  Now, when I press unlock, all the doors unlock, and lock all the doors lock regardless of any thing.  Now maybe I'll tackle the horn and lights....on second thought I think I'm happy with it now.

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