1999 olds intrigue trunk trigger

I've searched the forums quite a bit on this issue, and have found similar problems...mainly the Impala and Grand Prix, which are also W-Body cars. I just recently installed an Avital 4300 Alarm/Remote Start into my 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue GLS. Come to find out soon after installing it, I got a false alarm 20 minutes after arming the system (trunk trigger zone was tripped). Hit the remote to stop it and 20 minutes later it did the same thing. I have installed diodes on both of the door trigger wires and the trunk trigger wires. The door trigger wires are set up right...I wired them up just like the 1076 directed document shows: Directed Fax #1076 I wired the trunk trigger up with an extra diode as I found the ORANGE / black wire to be positive when the trunk was closed (cathode towards trunk switch, anode towards the alarm)...for some reason, not really sure why...so I used a diode to block that thinking it would somehow solve the problem. I'm at a loss...it still triggers a false alarm after 20 minutes. I've disconnected the trunk trigger wire for now...testing it right now to make sure it doesn't still set off a false alarm. I also am watching my meter to see what happens after 20 minutes. Any ideas? I'd like to utilize the ORANGE / black wire at the BCM...but it seems like it's either use an aftermarket switch or just leave it disconnected. Help.

As expected, the alarm did not go off with the trunk trigger wire disconnected. My meter tells me that the resistance to ground on the ORANGE / black wire went from around 38k ohms max to about 3.5k ohms min. This reading was taking after the diode...supposedly isolating it from the BCM. https://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8919/ace0.jpg There's a diagram of my trunk ajar circuit. Circuit 737 (Orn/Blk).

I've seen this for myself on the Malibu, and heard of it on the Impala. The alarm manufactuters are too lazy to update the tech sheets on these cars. You need to cut the car's trunk trigger wire in half, and insert a diode inline. Connect your alarm's trunk-trigger input on the "trunk" side of the wire you cut in half, not the "bcm" side. It's the BCM that's putting out weak ground pulses after it falls asleep, falsing the alarm.

That's the thing, the trunk trigger is connected to the "trunk side", not the "bcm side". trunk ajar wiring it looks like it may be grounding out through the theater dimming ground output from the BCM...but how do I isolate it from that? Should I try using a relay instead? I think that may be my next step...

Don't worry about that wire showing as pos when lid is closed,  it's normal,  you're getting the feed through the bulb. Chris is right in positioning the diode,  make sure the diode's band is away from the BCM box and as Chris says make your join to the band side.

that is how it is currently set up, the cathode is facing away from the bcm, anode towards the bcm.

OK...I believe I solved the problem. No false alarm yet and it's been more than 20 minutes. Here's what I did: Trunk Trigger Diagram The theater dimming 1 ground output must have been sending out a ground pulse. So I put a diode on the orange wire going to the rear compartment courtesy lamp (trunk lamp). Wiring was very easy to access, band facing the bulb (cathode). This effectively isolated the trunk trigger wire, as you can see in the picture....but it all still works. Hopefully this helps somebody...done pulling my hair out.

Problem definitely fixed...no more false alarms.

Brando, the other diode on the "hotwire" to the bulb probably did the trick, I should have thought it through, been doing that on E46 BMW trunk lights for some time, also late UK Fords, the sleep circuit wakes up and sends a jolt through the pos side triggering the alarm.