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clifford 50.7x remote start, ext relays


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cpl rampage 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: February 20, 2007
Posted: June 01, 2009 at 3:27 PM / IP Logged  
hi, I am looking for some help regarding the remote start on the clifford 50.7x I just installed on my 95 civic EX.
here's the problem:
I did not want to install the main control unit under the dash, since it would be so easy to just cut the main wires to disable the alarm. so I installed it in my Drivers side rear quarter panel. It has the backup battery, tilt sensor, glass breakage sensor, and a piezo siren in the dash vent.
Since it is so far from the dash I had to extend many of the control wires which is easy enough. But it would not be a good idea to extend the heavy gauge wires all the way to the front. So this is where the fun stuff comes in. The control unit has the remote start aux port, that includes (-)200mA lines for ignition, accessory, and starter.
So with this I could be able to either:
A: buy a DEI remote start relay setup, but I don't know what one I need.
B: make my own, since I have plenty of automotive relays.
I would prefer to make my own setup just because it is one less thing to buy, and I can customize the way it functions.
Now to make the relay pack, it should be fairly straight forward, but I am unsure of a few things.
1.) In the manual it says that not only does the heavy gauge pink wire power the remote start but it also is the ignition sense for the alarm zone, how should i go about incorporating this? do I run a small gauge wire from the ignition to the heavy gauge wire? or can I use the aux ignition line some how?
2.) I also want a starter kill, I assume the best way to do this is with a NC relay and the grounded when armed hooked to the coil?
Thanks for any info you have, let me know if I missed anything
cpl rampage 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: February 20, 2007
Posted: June 01, 2009 at 3:30 PM / IP Logged  
one other thing, is there any way to also have the anti-grind feature as well? maybe use the remote start status output tied into the same wire as the starter kill grounded when armed, and just use some diodes?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 01, 2009 at 3:42 PM / IP Logged  
First why not mount under the driver's seat? That wil solve all your problems, second, if this unit has a starter key side and starter starter side cutting the original starter (BLACK/ white on Hondas) then there's an anti-grind feature built in.
cpl rampage 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: February 20, 2007
Posted: June 01, 2009 at 4:22 PM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
First why not mount under the driver's seat? That wil solve all your problems, second, if this unit has a starter key side and starter starter side cutting the original starter (BLACK/ white on Hondas) then there's an anti-grind feature built in.
1.) because its a coupe and people could step on it, and it is also not protected from the elements as well, so if it ever gets wet say good by to my alarm.
2.) yes by default it does have anti grind, but that is only on the heavy gauge wiring which is build into the control unit, so i cant extend the wires and use the on board relay and anti grind...
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,610
Platinum spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2008
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posted: June 01, 2009 at 5:04 PM / IP Logged  

who says you can't extend the heavy gauge wires, just use slightly larger gauge wires, and solder all connections,  and you can simply fuse all wires a couple inches from the connection to the heavy gauge wires in the car and you should be good, if you decide you would still like to use the relay setup, look in the relay section of this site, under the converting polarity heading, converting negative to a positive, you will need about four single pole double throw relays. the negative trigger on the diagram you will see is where you will be connecting the various outputs to the control wires.

commit your way to jehovah and he will act in your behalf. psalms 37:5
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 02, 2009 at 1:33 AM / IP Logged  
Nothing wrong with under the seat, done it many times, unless you have a problem with your car, water won't penetrate there, also go under the carpet, don't drill through the floor for mountings or grounds and you won't have backseat passengers treading on it, also most back seat passengers enter a 2/3 door from the passenger side. You are hypothesising, we are talking from experience. I've kept amps and autochangers under seat in many of my cars with no problems. N.B. On some Hondas, there's lots of room behind the rigid DKP, it depends on whether yours is rigid or carpeted. Just another point, you are going to have to get to the ignition etc. wiring which is under dash anyway. When I remove another alarm which has failed and stranded the vehicle, I'm looking under dash first, specifically the ignition looms.
cpl rampage 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: February 20, 2007
Posted: June 02, 2009 at 9:42 AM / IP Logged  
im not going to run 6 heavy gauge wires from the ignition to the alarm, it would take up too much room and make it a bit of a pain. I already know how i am going to set up the relays, but if some one could give me input on how to connect the alarm so that i have the ignition trigger the alarm, and how to have anti grind...
for the ignition trigger, i would think i could just run a small gauge wire from the ignition line back to the pink heavy gauge wire on the control unit, unless the pink wire from the aux port wil also work, in that case I will just tap it there.
for the anti grind, i can hook up the start kill relay to the RS status line on the control unit so it disables the key start when remote start is running.
let me know how these ideas sound.

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