guide for a intelliguard 950

In my sleep in about 3 hours, since there were two models, let me know if it's an E36 or E46 , changed about 2000, E46 model has "angel eyes" headlamps and the later instrument panel, the window switches will be on a grey background and there will be a door lock switch adjacent to the parking (hand) brake in the centre console. Can't answer you till you tell me what model, year etc.

Some comments, throw away the tilt and glass sensors, the tilt is useless unless it's a 507m, the glass unless you turn it's sensitivity too low, it  triggers when the dual zone prox gives the outer zone warning. Was replaced 21/2 years ago by the concept 650 Mk ll.

Sorry 2 hours, I was thinking of the above with Intellistart.

Here goes, by the way  NEW Hampshire?  Drop out glove box and remove, pull out hazard switch and open hood. You will need  6-8  1N4004 diodes and one relay.

Once glove box has been removed you will see an electrical panel. This will be dropped via 3 x 8mm nut head screws but first follow carpet up behind it, pull down carpet and push up rubbery sound deadening underneath, right in the middle is your grommet to run wiring to engine bay.

Behind that electric panel is the main loom.

12v+  Constant RED / blue or RED / green or plain red 2.5mm

Ignition Light green 2.5mm

Start LightGREEN/ black

You may be able to access these where the loom passes over the central hump and runs up behind without removing the electrics section.

Door  contacts; BROWN / blue silver dots BROWN / grey silver dots. TEST. Right hand quad plug. Diode together to alarm's GREEN wire, bands away from alarm.

Hatch should be at SAME plug (depends on build date) BROWN / white. If not remove trim in hatch area nearside, it's in that loom (BROWN / white) TEST and join to alarm's BLUE.

Locks; centre quad plug, lock is pin 4 and vacant, unless very late spec when its WHITE/ red. If vacant bare 1/8th" GREEN/ BLACK  from alarm and push home and secure. It has a habit of pulling out.

Unlock is pin 17 across from 4, blue/red to BLUE/BLACK from alarm.

Now here's the trick; on that alarm you will either have an aux  such as RED / WHITE* you can programme for, set this up  timed for 7 secs or 12 if you have a factory sunroof.  Run this to 85 on your relay, 12v+ constant to 86 and 30, output from 87 via 2 of those diodes, bars away from relay to the GREEN/ BLACK and BLUE/Black lock/unlock wires. This wil give you deadlocking and total close (a.k.a. comfort lock).

Bonnet (hood) switch; near side,  (should come with alarm)  note on off side where there is a small hole on top rail inboard of right hand headlight, go to equivalent position on nearside and drill a 12mm (1/2") hole. Make sure switch plunger is shortened down to about 10mm (c.3/8") in length. Connect to BLUE from alarm.

Mount siren to nearside forward of wheel arch.

Indicators; set input (normally the lead which has the 20amp fuse  WHITE/ RED) to ground. There are 2 x 10mm nuts to the left of the glove box, these are factory ground (earthing) points. Join the WHITES together and take your extended lead and join to the BROWN / blue on the hazard switch.

Ignore blackjax and tach(PURPLE / BLACK). A waste of time. Ignore plain purple which is joined to green at the alarm.

Hatch lights: If they are built into the rear light covers inside the hatch diode as following.  Cut the RED / yellow feed wires and insert a diode into each, with the bands towards the light. If you don't do this alarm will go off every third time or so when you arm it.

*You will have to programme that RED / white to activate on arming.