viper 350 plus dead after zapping

Hello everyone, this is my first post. I've been hanging around for a few months now and have always been able to find the answers I needed. I have really learned alot from you guys. Thanks

I installed this unit in a 1989 Ford F150 last sunday. When I connected it to the 12v supply it seemed to work well. I went throught all of the functions and everything worked, ie: alarm, dome light supervision, parking lights flashing, door pins and shock sensor. So I thought everything was well until I noticed that the LED light on the control center was flashing three times and when I would disarm the system with the remote I got four chirps from the siren. I armed the system for the night and did some reading in the literature and tried to reset the system, but I could not.

I also pruchased the bitwriter at the same time. I connected it up to check the settings to see if anything was locked. , tried to clear out the error codes. I then used the "ZAP" feature to reset the unit back to factory defualt. Now nothing works, I can't program the remotes I can't enter valet mode,there are no lights, its dead.

I checked power to the unit and there is 12v,and the door pins are working, which is what the manual says I need for this thing to work. What next?Thax,EdOld Ford Guy

start yanking fuses out of the power wires. let it sit for 1 min, power backon with the bitwriter connected.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Zap wipes the memory from the unit... you should still be able to learn remotes tho... the problem may be you have an incorrect doorpin hookup... which would account for your original problem as well as the inability to learn new remotes.....Kevin Gerry

Certified Electronics Technician

MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer

Classic Car Audio

since 1979

I think these guys are right, and I have something else to add too. You said you got 4 chirps when disarming instead of two...not generally a big deal. This is to tell the user that while he was away from the parked car, the alarm was triggered. Counting the LED flashes can tell you (it's in the owner's manual) whether it was the door, hood, trunk, or shock sensor that set the alarm off. Anyway, you probably just triggered the alarm yourself while testing and/or installing the system....again, no big deal. However, the next time you turn the car's ignition to the On position, this is supposed to reset itself, and you should be getting the regular two chirps upon disarming. Since you're still getting four chirps all the time, this means that almost surely your alarm's yellow ignition wire isn't connected correctly. You do have a test light or multimeter or something for testing wires, correct? Anyway, you'll want to go directly to the alarm's brain (you can leave it plugged in; it doesn't matter), and test the following wires by putting your test probe right onto the metal pin where it enters the brain: 1. Yellow ignition input should be either dead or rest at ground with the truck off. With the truck's key in the Run and Start positions, the yellow wire needs to have positive. 2. Door trigger: I think your truck's door trigger circuit (the domelight wire) is a positive trigger, correct? In that case, the alarm's purple positive door trigger input should rest at ground with the door closed, and turn to positive with the door open. The green negative door trigger wire shouldn't be connected to anything; it's for other cars (mainly non-Ford and non-Chrysler) which use a negative-based domelight system. 3. The Bitwriter has a setting where you can disable transmitter programming. Make sure you didn't do that by accident. IN SUMMARY: 1. When you used the "zap" feature, you knocked all remotes out of programming. 2. Since the unit was working, it's safe to say that your ground and constant-power connections are probably good. 3. To reprogram remotes, you need the following to work: door trigger, ignition, valet switch, and of course the alarm's antenna must not be damaged or cut off or shorted to ground or power. Also, the unit's transmitter programming feature must not have been disabled using the Bitwriter. 4. You'll want to concentrate your efforts on all items mentioned in #3 above, as surely one (or several) of those items is the problem.

I want thank you guys for the information you provided, it was right on. I had the yellow wire connected wrong, and had the green and the violet wires both connected. I cut the green wire loose and every seems work now. I shoud finish things up tomorrow and I will know for sure. You guys are awesome, Thanks againOld Ford Guy