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corolla 2010, remote start pics


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syn664 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: December 05, 2010
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 05, 2010 at 2:03 AM / IP Logged  
I have a 2010 Corolla. It is the same as the 2009. I bought a remote start and bypass to put in and I have found about 80% of the wires, but am unsure of the location of 6.
I have links to the pictures, can anyone confirm the locations of the ones i labeled and point out the ones i am missing
The ones I cannot seem to locate are
"12 Volts constant", I hear RED / WHITE/ blue, but not sure
"Parking light output" I think i found the location but is it black or brown?
"Auxiliary 1 output" i think it is somewhere in the driver kick pic
for the bypass module I cannot find......
"yellow wire"- behind the security light, gray 22pin plug, #1pin
"pink Data IMI wire" behind fuse box, gray 22pin plug, #19 pin
"lght green or lght GREEN/ black Data IMO wire" behind fuse box, gray 22pin plug, #21 pin
I have a picture of the security light but no gray connector behind it, and behind the fuse box there are no gray connectors just a white one
Ignition Switch
https://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k501/Syn664/ignitionswitch.jpg
Headlight Switch
https://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k501/Syn664/headlightswitch.jpg
Brake Pedal wires
https://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k501/Syn664/brakeinput.jpg
OBD II 9 pin (tach)
https://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k501/Syn664/OBDII9pin.jpg
Fuse Box
https://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k501/Syn664/auxilary2.jpg
Behind the Fuse Box
https://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k501/Syn664/behindfusebox.jpg
Driver kick
https://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k501/Syn664/driverkick.jpg
Security Light
https://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k501/Syn664/securitylight.jpg
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 05, 2010 at 2:44 AM / IP Logged  
Your question, 12volt constant. Do you not have a DMM?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 05, 2010 at 5:13 AM / IP Logged  

For the +12v constant to the remote start power inputs, go to the thick White wire at the front of the fuse box, just above the two blue relays in your Fuse Box picture.

And as Howard mentioned, a Digital Multi Meter is the best way to locate and safely verify the wires.

Soldering is fun!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 05, 2010 at 5:17 AM / IP Logged  
Also WTH do you mean by aux output in the kick panel? Aux output for what? Trunk/hatch release?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 05, 2010 at 5:51 AM / IP Logged  

For the bypass IMI / IMO wires, go to the iDatalink WEB site ( http://www.idatalink.com/support/helpdesk ), download install guide #4226 and look at pages 8 & 9 for location , colors and diagram or your car.

You can also connect it as per the Fortin Install Guide ( https://ifar.ca/download/2327/key-override-all_toyota_corolla_-_g_key_(2010).rev-b.pdf ) but that requires going into the engine compartment.

Soldering is fun!
syn664 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: December 05, 2010
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 05, 2010 at 12:20 PM / IP Logged  
Thank you for all the help, I do have a DMM, and was using it but for instance, I check the ignition wire for power when i turn the key on and get 12-13volts, but i would then check the rest of the wires around there and they all got the same voltage. It didn't really narrow it down.
That guide you linked me is working wonders, matching everything up and almost all set.
Yea, Aux 1 output is for the trunk release. I am having a hard time narrowing it down
The last wire I am questioning is the keysense wire. Is that necessary? My ground when running wire is connecting to the bypass modules ground when running
thanks again for all the help
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 05, 2010 at 1:31 PM / IP Logged  

If your car does not have an alarm, you won't need to connect GWR to Keysense.  Note that some bypass modules do have a  connection to Keysense.

Soldering is fun!

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