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connecting keyless to 2011 dodge ram


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shifter911 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: June 15, 2011
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: June 15, 2011 at 4:43 PM / IP Logged  

Hey guys, looking for assistance on an alarm hook-up on a 2011 Dodge RAm Crew 1500. I am an experienced installer, but have not been doing it now for a few years, so my skills are A+, but my knowledge on the latest automotive applications may be a little outdated.

I had originally installed a DEI CHALL for the install, and went wire-to-wire as the Zensis AS202 I picked up, well the D2D did not seem to match up connectors. I did not want to start splicing connectors as canbus details on wire inputs/outputs between the 2 units was a little light. Any way, everything for inputs worked great (dome light detect, hood detect etc.) but the outputs from the alarm coming into the CHALL were responding... most importantly the keyless entry lock/unlock signals not doing there job, which is the original decision to install an alarm system to begin with (CRIPES!). Finally fed-up with trying to troubleshoot why the CHALL did not seem to function in full, I ended up disconnecting the door lock and unlock triggers and went direct to the passenger door power lock/unlock wire using the information I found on a few different threads here and on some Ram forums... basically 330 resistor to lock, 100 resistor to unlock on the PURPLE / green wire in the passenger door switch. I used diodes to isolate as well... but no go at all. I then also (folowing info posted on the same threads) tried hooking up the parking light flash in similar fashion with a 1100 resistor to the white parking light lead on the headlight dash switch. Again, no dice.
Has someone found there is a different resistor required for the 2011's? Is there somehting I'm missing. Frustration is heavy right now as I should have all the required resources to enable my door locks, but its just not happening... so I wonder if the information I dug up is inaccurate, or there was a change in 2011 (most info found was from 2009-2010 installs).
Any help would be greatly appreciated! 

2011 Dodge Ram 1500 Crewcab Hemi
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 15, 2011 at 8:11 PM / IP Logged  

Haven't done one but here is info from DEI.  The only difference is the 1100 ohms vs the 1000 ohms on the Parking Light.

One possible issue - Are you using relays for all these connections?  As a test, you could use a jumper to chassis ground
on one side of a 330 ohm resistor and touch the other side to the PURPLE / Light Green lock wire.

Power Lock        PURPLE / lt. green           - 330 ohms          passenger door lock switch, green 10 pin plug, pin 8

Power Unlock    same as power lock  - 100 ohms  

Parking Lights-        white  - 1K ohms                   headlight switch, black 10 pin plug, pin 1

Soldering is fun!
shifter911 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: June 15, 2011
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: June 16, 2011 at 10:14 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks Kreg, I'll have to test again and try a 1000 ohm as well....
2011 Dodge Ram 1500 Crewcab Hemi
shifter911 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: June 15, 2011
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: June 20, 2011 at 5:13 PM / IP Logged  
Still looking for further expertise on this issue.... Anyone super familiar with the 2011 Ram? Your help would be appreciated!
2011 Dodge Ram 1500 Crewcab Hemi
dasbogie 
Silver - Posts: 514
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 30, 2006
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 20, 2011 at 6:22 PM / IP Logged  
What is the voltage readings on the doorlock wire  when you trigger the lock and unlock from the switch?  Couldn't you set your meter to max/hold and get the voltage of each trigger, then with a bushell of resistors, find the right one?   I know that is a little more time consuming than just plugging in the correct values.
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