550hf bench programming is it possible?

hi guys, tons of good info on here. unfortunately, i used the search button and have come up empty here's the situation: I have an older viper 550hf that i removed from my buddy's new used truck(96 landcruiser). it had no remote and wouldnt start until i removed the viper. now, i purchased the avital 4button remote(474L- 2/65codes) and im having issues programming the darn thing the plan is to install this alarm in my 89accord lxi(5sp)so as to protect or at least make noise if the neighborhood wanna-be thugs try 2 steal another radio from me. whatever the case, im trying to, i guess "bench" program the remote- basically the brain, wiring,etc is out of the car literally on a bench. i've read the programming posts, etc and none of the procedures outlined therein do not friggin work- wiring is as follows: red=batt+    yello free but exposed wire contacts b+ to simulate key switch siren red to brown        brain n siren grounds twisted 2gether n on - battery terminal. green - wire like yello but with neg to simulate dome/door.valet switch plugged in and so, basically im not goin thru d d whole trouble 2install it if it dont work- im following d posts to the letter n i may b doin it rong, but im not even getting a confirm chirp, just triggered alarm over n over again can some1 possibly help me out? feel free to email me toys87mkiii@yahoo.com other threads werent followed up so im trying 2 document as best i can... pleast let me kno what im doing wrong thanxx

With viper systems the unit returns to the mode it was in before power was disconnected, so it is possible the unit may have been in an armed state when you removed it, so you may need to override the system first and then attempt to program. You do have all the right conditions however and you are going about the programming correctly.

so how do i over ride the alarm? keep in mind that the constant n ground r connected n im touching yello wire to b+ to act as switched n doin d same w/grn on - for dome light. have a nu valet button but original plug was gray n blk twisted 2gether. also, i have no relays-ribbon harness sliced but have plug n like 18 in. of wire attatched- ima rebuild it ;) besides that, im good... once i figure how to post pix, i'll do so so every1 can/make fun of my admittidly raggady azz setup...

turn on the ignition (put the yellow wire on a hot source) and press the valet button, if it doesn't stop turn of the ignition and back on and press twice, repeat this procedure until you press the valet button five times, it should stop during one of the sequences, if not, i hope it isn't those coded override systems.

how can i find out if it IS a coded override system? and if so, am i totally screwed and in the event im not, is there any way to see if my vallet switch is even functioning? question- my 550hf has the mini led plug, meaning that the standard one i got is too big (get that alot,LOL)but 4tru would the mini led plug help in learning if i have a brain with or without this coded override?

Most likely, if you power the unit up, put power on the Yellow wire and press/release the valet switch once, it's going to turn off.

If it is coded, it can only go to 5.  Youre not screwed.  But most likely, it's just one press.

You can test the valet switch with a meter.

OK, i think I may have discovered a slight problem with the wiring and/or brain as far as the valet switch is concerned, powered up the black wire on the blu valet plug has continuity with both blk and red off the main power harness thingy. the gray has continuity only with red. resistance is present only between blk valet and ground off the main harness(.4ohmm). unplugged, only blk valet wire has continuity with ground offa the main harness OK yello switched power wire off the main harness has NO continuity with ANYTHING, so this is where i fear my problem might be i also have an old viper 300esp and an older DEI remote door locker thingy that I was thinking of comparing my findings with- i just have to dig around to find them... besides that, i hypothesize that the lack of continuity with the yello wire and everything else is y the brain isnt letting me get into valet mode or any kind of programming- cuz the brain isnt getting the switched on juice so it isnt doing what it should...could this be a correct assumption? besides that, is there a schematic i may be able to look at? and, not to sound brick-ish, but the directech links dont work for me as im not affiliated with any kind of shop, so feel free to email me at the address in the 1st post for any reply. thanxx every1 4 d help- i appreciate y'all helpin me out _next we're gonna build a box 4 an 89 accord using an OLD 12L7DVD, a pawn shop radio and an amp as yet to be found...