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2005 accord starter issues


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duytang 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2011
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: November 26, 2011 at 2:51 PM / IP Logged  
So I just installed a Viper 5501 2-way remote start with an idatalink ADSALCA in my 2005 Honda Accord. I use to be an installer for a few years but have been out of it for a while. Anyways, my issue is that the car seems to only start on the 2nd or 3rd remote starter crank and I really don't understand why. Also, increasing the crank time doesn't seem to affect anything. The car starts perfectly with the key every time though.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 26, 2011 at 3:18 PM / IP Logged  

Sounds like you are in Virtual Tach Mode.  Actual Tach Mode is more reliable and, being as the ADS AL-CA bypass module provides a tach signal, pretty easy to setup.

Set the Viper to Tach Mode ( Menu3, Item2, Opt4 ).  Connect the ADS AL-CA PURPLE / White Tach output wire to the Viper Violet/White Tach input wire.  Perform the Viper Tach Learn procedure.

Soldering is fun!
duytang 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2011
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: November 26, 2011 at 4:54 PM / IP Logged  
That's what I thought it might be but I have already tried. It doesn't make sense to me that the bypass could be wired wrong either since it does start on the 2nd or 3rd try... I'm puzzled.
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 26, 2011 at 5:07 PM / IP Logged  
Strange problem.   If you do a remote start while you watch the dash, do you see the Green Key light up on the first two tries?  That would be a bypass issue.  Are you going W2W or D2D ( with the DBI AL(DL) HA firmware )?
Soldering is fun!
duytang 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2011
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: November 26, 2011 at 5:29 PM / IP Logged  
The green key very quickly flashes on and off during remote start but it also does this when it starts too...
I am unfamiliar with that terminology W2W or D2D. and the bypass was flashed by a friend at my old work but I guess it could have been done wrong?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,802
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 26, 2011 at 5:53 PM / IP Logged  

D2D mode is a harness connection between the bypass module and the R/S unit.  In W2W mode all the individual signal wires

must be connected between the two units.  Which install guide did you use?  Did you do the set install mode procedure
( one blink = D2D, two blinks = W2W )?

Here is a link to some good info from iDatalink :  http://12voltdata.com/viewtopic.php?f=220&t=2893

Soldering is fun!
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: November 27, 2011 at 7:19 AM / IP Logged  
I believe the tach output from the iDatalink modules is not compatible with DEI products. You can try to connect your module's tach output to the Viper's tach input and then program the tach rate....but I'm pretty sure it won't work reliably.
If you haven't installed in a few years, you're probably not familiar with DEI's new Virtual Tach technology. It's not too well explained, but I'm pretty sure it's a super-fast voltage monitoring system that is somehow (almost magically) able to detect when the engine starts and the alternator starts spinning, and releases the car's starter motor at just the right time.
On the other hand, old-fashioned Voltage Sensing just blindly cranks the starter for the amount of time the unit is programmed for, then waits about ten seconds, and if it sees a voltage increase in the car, it assumes it has started and puts the parking lights on.
Virtual Tach works well almost all the time, but not always and not on every car. It seems that sometimes it doesn't quite crank enough. There's a "Virtual Tach Fine Tune" setting in the menu where you can add a little more cranking time, but you need a Bitwriter programming tool to access that menu.
So anyway, here are your options if you don't think the car is cranking enough:
1: Obtain access to a Bitwriter and play with the Virtual Tach Fine Tune setting, adding some cranking time.
2: Try using the tachometer output from the ADS interface module. It may or may not work, but would be easy to try.
3: Connect Viper's tach wire to your car's tach wire. It's down low on the passenger's side of the center console, sort of to the left of where your passenger's left foot would be. Directechs lists the wire color; I want to say it's blue/red but it's been a long time.
4: Program your unit for regular Voltage Sensing, and set the Crank Time for exactly 1.0 seconds.
MY OPINION:
Since it's your own car, you can play around with it a little bit. If it were a customer's car, I'd just say hook up tach and get the car out and on to the next.......... but since it's yours, go for #4 above first, and see if that works.
At least then you'll know if it's a cranking issue, or if maybe you did something else wrong in your installation. I know from experience that there's no reason your car (if it's in good running condition) won't start with 1.0 seconds' crank time.
Then, if you leave it like that for a few days and it starts up every time, at least you know it really is a crank-time issue, you know the rest of your install is good, and then you can think about pulling the car back apart and hooking up to the Honda's tach wire directly.
duytang 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2011
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: November 27, 2011 at 9:26 AM / IP Logged  
Hey, HUGE thanks for the help guys. So with your help I was able to figure out what the issue was, and i'm kind of embarrassed by what I did actually haha. So for some reason I thought that I could use the D2D wire to get power, ground, ground when running but have everything set up for W2W. Needless to say all I had to do was properly hardwire those 3 wires and everything works great!
thanks

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