2010 toyota 4runner tips

I have a 2010 toyota 4 runner V6 with a G on the key to do on saturday morning in the customers driveway. I will be using a Ads Al Ca and a 4103. Ive done the 2010 camrys. I just looking to avoid surprises any tips or tricks?If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

I recently did a 2011 w/ G key and used an FLCAN.   In the manual for flcan it had the parkin light wire listed wrong.  It gave the correct pin location but wrong wire color and polarity.   Definitely verfiy that with a meter.  The security light is kind of a bear because there is no slack in that harness.  The worst part is having to deal with those knee airbags on both driver and passenger sideof the vehicle.  Other than that it's not too bad.  Make sure you have some extra wire to extend those imi and imo wires behind the glove box. Advanced

Ok thanks. I always verify everything with a meter. Yea the imo where the same on the camey i did.If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

I've done a few for the Toyota dealer and I think I can help quite a bit. ---Test to see if it has a factory alarm. Most of them don't. The Limited probably has an alarm, but it will also have Smart Key.....if it's an SR5 with regular key, probably no alarm. ---As long as it does not have an alarm, go up to the steering column and hook up your constant, ignition, and starter wires as usual. Accessory only triggers the radio and power mirrors, and is not necessary for remote start unless you want the radio on during. If it doesn't have an alarm, DON'T hook up anything to keysense! (I'll explain why later.) ---Doorlocks in the kick panel; you can clearly see which harnesses come in from the door; that's where you want to go. ---Does the car have autolights, and if so, does the customer leave the switch in the AUTO position? The negative parking light wire at the switch doesn't function if the switch is left on AUTO. Also, if the remote starter times out, or is shut down by remote, the autolamps stay on all night and kill the battery. Pretty dumb Toyota wouldn't design them to time out. (Nissan and Honda do this, too.) So, if the switch is on AUTO: Use positive parking lights, not negative. Also, take your GREEN / WHITE "rearm" output, put it to a relay to make a strong negative trigger, and connect the relay's output to the car's driver's doorpin wire. (You can sometimes get away with connecting it straight to the car's wire with no relay, but it doesn't always work.) ---When you go to do the IMI/IMO wires, you'll see that they're shown as being behind the glove box, and it seems really resistant to being removed. There's an easier way. Pull down the black plastic "hush panel" that's over the passenger's feet, and you can see up to where all the wires are. You can reach up with a pick tool, unplug the second plug up at the ECM, and then pull it down and there's enough slack to make your connections. If you test all the wires in the passenger's kick panel, you can find constant and ground, if you want to power up your module over there. (I put the module right in the passenger's kick panel, for easy troubleshooting/reprogramming in the future.) Now.....you didn't touch that keysense wire, right? Good. Depending on which module you use, it might have an extra ground input, and a security light output.....don't bother with any of that. When you've got everything all done, remote-start the car. You'll see the security light flashing; don't worry. Now, put the key into the ignition switch....security light goes out! Now you can turn the key on, do your takeover, and drive away. Basically, if you don't touch keysense, the OEM system will validate the key when it's inserted, and turn the light out. If you hook up keysense, then you'll need to go through all the craziness of hunting down the security light wire.

Thanks alot Chris I will be using an idatalink ads Al CA. According to the install instructions I need to hook into the security light but doesn't say anything about key sense wire . The module is supposed to take care of locks, factory alarm, tach, immobilizer, door status, hatch release As for the IMO and IMI wires I was going to check the drivers side for them as code systems Website says they're in the ingition harness. If not oh well I'll run wires over to the passenger side As far as the auto lights go I'll have to look Doesn't look all too bad the data module takes date of most of itIf i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

There are TX and RX wires at the immobilizer at the ignition switch, but those are only of use to you if it has a 40-bit key, the kind with the little dimple on the metal part. The 80-bit or "G" key, no one has (yet) been able to crack the data at the key cylinder; you unfortunately need to go to the IMI and IMO wires at the ECM. Do you know which firmware is on the ALCA? And which install guide do you have? They do have a new firmware, TL4, that will do some of the convenience features on 80-bit Toyotas, as well as the IMI/IMO wires for the immobilizer. If the install guide you have shows you going to the TX and RX wires at the key cylinder, it's the wrong guide, wrong firmware, and won't work. That's only good for the 40-bit Toyotas.

That's what I was kind of figuring as far as the imi and IMO wires go just figured while I was in there I would check. I forget the firmware I flashed it yesterday but the install guide is the DBI-AL(DL)-TL4 so its for the 80 bit key. I have the flash cable and I used klon to flash itIf i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Thanks for the help guys. Chris thanks for the tip on the imi and IMO connector made it much easier to get to that way. The truck didn't have auto lights so I didn't need the rearm wire. The install guide was right except for the parking light wire wasnt there (yes I tried pin location not just color) I found it in another connector at the bcm (dark green) wire. Wasn't a bad over all install took me about 2hrs to do.If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe