2011 jeep liberty with fortin evo bypass

ok so i installed a viper remote start in a 2011 liberty using the fortin evochr t2, learned everything and it starts fine but now the factory key fob does not work for lock and unlock and the car will not come out of park!!!! any ideas or suggestions? thanks

how was the evo-chr installed, d2d or w2w? what did you do with the truck's lock and unlock wires? how about the brake wire? did you cut any of the truck's wires to make your connections?This information is provided only as a reference.

All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

done this vehicle many times with the evo-chr without issues. disconnect the remote start and evo chr and see if it works normally.

where did you get your constant 12v from?

Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

91stt wrote: how was the evo-chr installed, d2d or w2w? what did you do with the truck's lock and unlock wires? how about the brake wire? did you cut any of the truck's wires to make your connections?

the evo chr requires not cutting or splicing into wires for this specific vehicle. everything is controlled through data. the only connections that need to be made are parking lights, ground, constant 12v from the battery.

Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Check all of the fuses with a DMM. Sounds like a fuse blew.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

tedmond wrote: 91stt wrote: how was the evo-chr installed, d2d or w2w? what did you do with the truck's lock and unlock wires? how about the brake wire? did you cut any of the truck's wires to make your connections? the evo chr requires not cutting or splicing into wires for this specific vehicle. everything is controlled through data. the only connections that need to be made are parking lights, ground, constant 12v from the battery.

i do not know the skill level of the OP. just trying to cover all bases. nothing worst than to assume something was not done but was due to inexperience.This information is provided only as a reference.

All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

I'm guessing blown fuse in the constant-power ignition feed. It's 10 amps, and easy to short the wire(s) out against body metal while you're working with your wire strippers/cutters/crimpers/soldering iron/any metal tool. Also, on most Chryslers, the keyless entry antenna is also inside the immobilizer module at the keyswitch. So If that unit isn't getting power and/or ground, there could be something going on right there. Also, the BTSI (brake transmission shift interlock) is also very likely to be in/near the steering column...it might get its power from that same fuse too.

OK so I had a chance to pull this back apart and take a look. I dropped down the steering wheel cover and checked the connections on the t harness. everything looked ok so i tried both factory remotes and they both work fine now so i started it up and put it in drive without any problems. so im thinking it was a bad connection so i looked a little closer and found that the small solder pins on the t harness had been squished by the steering wheel cover and actually poked through the rubber covering and were grounding out on the steering column. wth!!! lol so i tape it up and re positioned it, all problems gone works like a champ thanks for all the help guys.