best viper/module for 06 dodge ram 1500

FIrst time remote start install and I want to get as much help as possible. I have a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 and want to install a Viper remote start. I would like to hear from anyone who has done this to see 1. how hard this is and 2. what the best setup might be. I know that I will need an interface bypass module (either the DB-ALL, xpresskit XK-09, or a CHALL). If anyone can help guide me through the install and give viper model and bypass model suggestions it would be greatly appreciated. Also how complicated is it to add the security part for the higher priced Viper remote start systems. If anyone has anyother remote start brand suggestions I am all ears but I would like the phone start possibility. Thanks,

Also if anyone has opinions on bypass modules from idatalink and FLCAN input would be great. Is there a blade alternative that might be easier?

I use DEI brains almost exclusively and use Idata bypasses as my first option. I would use the ADS-AL from Idata in W2W mode. This leaves the data port open in case you want to add the Smart Start option at a later date. The bypass will give you almost everything you need for alarm integration as well. Have a look at the manual here.Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

X2 with Twelvoltz.  The iDatalink modules are a great choice for Chrysler products.  The orange box Solo series come pre-loaded with firmware ( ADS ALSL CH or ADS DLSL CA2 ).  Here is a link to apictorial on that truck using another remote starter brand in W2W mode with an iDatalink bypassmodule.  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~130085~PN~1 Soldering is fun!

I guess my question would be in W2W mode, do I make the dashed line connections and the red line connections? For the most part it appears to be fairly straight forward. Or if I do get a dei or compustar with alarm then hook it up as shown and use the D2D to bypass the anti-theft, door locks etc. The remote starter just has the starter output and 12v input going to the vehicle, the rest go to the module. The module only has 6 wires going to the vehicle, and all the other wires go between the module and the remote start. Again thanks for all the input it is really appreciated.

kreg357, great photos, I have been looking at them for a couple of days. May I ask what wiring manuals you used? When I look at the website I do not see the hoodpin wire setup. I know this might depend on maybe newer models possibly? Also, how hard is adding the resistor to the wires? Thanks for all the great input.

Thanks, while it doesn't cover everything, the pictorial is a good visual reference. 

The first decision would be which brand / model of remote starter.  Did you want just remote start,

remote start with keyless entry or remote start with keyless entry and alarm?  Some of that depends on what your truck has from the factory.  You must currently have power door locks for the R/S systemto control them.  If you have the Factory alarm system, do you want to add another alarm / siren?Viper is not one of my normal brands, so I can't advise on that aspect.

The iDatalink ( or most any combo style ) bypass module will do several things for you.  First it will

bypass the trucks ignition immobilizer system, which basically is a transponder chip in the ignition key and the the antenna and associated immobilizer circuitry at the key cylinder.  During start-up,the bypass module handles the ignition MUX wire which signals keysense, accessory and starter all onone wire ( no need for any relays or resistors ).  The bypass module takes the door lock and unlock commands from the R/S brain and passes them to the truck thru the CAN Bus data wire connections ( again.no need for relays and resistors ).  If your truck has a Factory alarm, it controls that using the same lock / unlock input from the R/S.  Lastly, the bypass module gathers vehicle info from the CAN bus and supplies it to the R/S.  Signals like Brake, EBrake, Door Status and a Tach signal.  These inputs to the R/S make the install even easier. 

Using the iDatalink ADS ALSL CH5 install guide and the Type 2 diagram  with the W2W wiring method between

the bypass module and a Viper ( 5701 for arguments sake ), you would make all the necessary connections shown by solid Red or dashed Black lines between the Viper and the iDatalink.  The install in the referenced pictorial was for R/S w/keyless only so the Door Status wire was ommitted.  (The Viper 5701 would use thatfor its alarm system.)  Also not used was the EBrake Status and Trunk Status.

In W2W mode, the D2D harness is not used and the 3 wires shown at that plug are hardwired.  The GWR

Blue/White would connect to the Vipers' (-) 200ma Status Out Blue wire ( H2/10 ).  From the Viper, the H1/2, H3/6 and H3/9 would all go to +12V constant and of course H1/5 to chassis ground. 

The hood pin is usually supplied in the remote starter kit and installed by finding a good location,

drilling a hole and screwing the pin into position.  Adjust the pin height for proper operation and connect to R/S Hood Status input wire.  This is an important safety feature as it insures the engine can't be remote started with the hood open ( if the engine is running under remote start and the hood is opened, it will immediately stop the engine, too).  The hood pin is also used for the alarm system to monitor that point also.

As for wiring info, the iDatalink install guide is very accurate for all of its' vehicle connections.

For the other R/S to vehicle wires, here are some links to help.  Remember that these are only guidesand there can be errors / conflicts.  Always verify with a Digital Multi Meter.Bulldog Security :  http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspDEI / Ready Remote :  http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Dodge&model=RAMAudiovox ( sign-up is free ) :  http://techservices.audiovox.com/login.aspx

Soldering is fun!

At the least remote start with keyless entry is what I am looking for with the option for phone control. I am not fully decided on alarm or not. The vehicle does have power door locks so that should not be a problem. What would the advantage be to a W2W connection vs the D2D connection. From my view point it would appear that the D2D would be a faster, easier connection so I guess my question is what would be the reasons to do more connections? I ask this question as a novice and by no means am I trying to say one way is better than the other, I am just looking for opinions from people who have experience with these setups. Also does anyone know if there are R/S that do not require an external antenna, ie built into the R/S system. Thanks for all of the great feedback, it is very useful.

The D2D mode of operation has been problematic.  In some applications it works flawlessly, in others

it gives sporadic issues.  W2W always works and is easier to troubleshoot if you do encounter an issueduring install.  The extra W2W wiring can be done on the bench under ideal conditions, soldering and heatshrinking each connection in about 20 minutes.  As Twelvoltz pointed out, if you go W2W with the bypass, that leaves the D2D port free for future use ( Smart Phone interface) on a Viper system. 

Personally, I have only tried the D2D mode twice, on different and somewhat basic installs.  Neither time

was the end result satisfactory.  With the 2006 Ram in the pictorial install, the bypass programmed to the truck easily and absolutely no issues where found during vehicle testing.  Customer is very satisfied and even referred a friend. If you decide to go with a Compustar system, there are forum members that can assist with the Drone option.Please note that getting the Smart Start system initialized is pretty much Dealer only.

The type of antenna pretty much determines the range of the system.  Units with internal antenna ( or short

antennas sticking out of the brain ) have a 400 foot range at best.  You can try to conceal an externalantenna under the dash, in the "A" pillar or headliner but that will probably reduce that range also. 

Soldering is fun!

W2W is a safer, more secure route for install. That makes sense then. Would you advise connecting the R/S and the Bypass wires together that go between the modules first, in a place with room and lighting, then hook up the R/S to the truck then the bypass. It just seems like that would be a little easier. Also kreg357, do you have any recommendations for a R/S, or do you mind telling me the one you installed? Thanks for all the information you are being very helpful. Another question I have is how do you go about checking to make sure each wire is correct. Are there specific voltage readouts for each wire, or what is the best way because I am sure that sometimes wires may be different etc.