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remote start 2002 ranger


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mikten 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: May 20, 2004
Posted: June 03, 2012 at 11:39 AM / IP Logged  
Good morning. I am installing a remote start/keyless system.
2002 Ford Ranger, Auto, No Alarm
I did get the door locks to work, but that is all. Hit start and nothing.System is a Commando EZ-2500.Here is what I have done. Sorry for the long message. Trying to get as much info as possible.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Mike
H1.
Violet starter.- USED
Red(2) 12v. -    USED
Yellow Ign.-     USED
Pink 2nd Ign. - USED
Brown ACC.       USED
H2.
RED / White Parking light relay input -   NOT USED
White Parking light relay output. -      USED
Black Ground  USED
Brown Horn 200 mA programmable output - USED does not work to well, will put in a relay to see if that will help.
RED 12V    USED      
H5.
Orange-(-) 500mA Grounded output when armed.    NOT USED
Yellow (-) 200mA Ign. 3 control output USED FOR TRANSPONDER not hooked up yet just leaving key in ign.
White (-) 200 mA programmable output NOT USED (maybe dome light)
Pink (-) 200 mA programmable output NOT USED
Gray (-) 200 mA Channel 3 (trunk)NOT USED
h6
Green (-) Instant start & turn off input. NOT USED
BLACK/ White (-) Neutral safety switch or remote start toggle. GROUND
WHITE/ Violet (+) Positive safety shut down. HOOD PIN not connected yet, but did ground wire when trying to start)
WHITE/ Black (-) Negative safety shut down. NOT USED
WHITE/ Red Tach signal   NOT USED
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 03, 2012 at 12:34 PM / IP Logged  
Tach should be connected and programmed, hood switch should be the WHITE/ black not WHITE/ violet which needs to see a neg (-) to enable it.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 03, 2012 at 12:43 PM / IP Logged  
Tach is tan / YELLOW at rear of instrument cluster.
Ref: your other post, use a DMM and set it to 300ma or a close by range, pos probe to horn wire, neg to ground. If it shows more than 300ma, you will need a relay though I feel you should first test the R/S horn output. All vehicles with a factory relay and a neg horn push need a very low current to trigger the horn(s).
Doubly applies to Japanese based vehicles, especially if this model Ranger is also a Mazda.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,789
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 03, 2012 at 12:46 PM / IP Logged  

H1.

Violet starter.-          RED / Light Blue
Red(2) 12v. - Yellow
Yellow Ign.-   Light Gren/Purple
Pink 2nd Ign. - Blacl/Light Green
Brown ACC. Gray / YELLOW

H2.

RED / White Parking light relay input -            +12V (connected to Red wire below with fuse)
White Parking light relay output. -   Brown
Black Ground       USED
Brown Horn 200 mA programmable output - USED does not work to well, will put in a relay to see if that will help.
RED 12V            USED      

H5.

Orange-(-) 500mA Grounded output when armed.     NOT USED
Yellow (-) 200mA Ign. 3 control output         USED FOR TRANSPONDER not hooked up yet just leaving key in ign.
White (-) 200 mA programmable output        NOT USED (maybe dome light)
Pink (-) 200 mA programmable output          NOT USED
Gray (-) 200 mA Channel 3 (trunk   NOT USED

h6

Green (-) Instant start & turn off input.   NOT USED
BLACK/ White (-) Neutral safety switch or remote start toggle.     GROUND
WHITE/ Violet (+) Positive safety shut down.     Brake (+)  Light Green
WHITE/ Black (-) Negative safety shut down.     Hood Pin
WHITE/ Red Tach signal       Tan / YELLOW @ PCM or Instrument cluster   *****

*****The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is on the top of the firewall under the hood towards the passenger side. The

         tachometer wire is in pin 48. Can also get tach at the ignition coil or coil pack. Use any of the tan/stripe wires.

Soldering is fun!
mikten 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: May 20, 2004
Posted: June 03, 2012 at 2:09 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry I typed it wrong, the WHITE/ Black is hood pin and the WHITE/ Violet is connected to brake switch. Confused as far as tach goes. Have put in 4 other remote start and have not used the tach wire. Now that was a few years ago and different brand. I mean the unit does not even click or nothing while trying remote start. I will hook up the tach wire and try it. Thanks
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 03, 2012 at 2:16 PM / IP Logged  
Measure your voltages across 12V+ inputs and the ground wire at the unit.
Either the unit or your wiring is faulty also nowadays ALL R/S units work PROPERLY with the tach connected and programmed.
mikten 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: May 20, 2004
Posted: June 03, 2012 at 4:19 PM / IP Logged  
I am guessing the unit is bad. Wiring looks ok, 12v is right. I believe the grounding is right. I cannot even get into the programming. The module is new, but it is about 8 years old (never been used). Any other suggestions before I remove all the wiring? I would think the module would click or do something when I try to start it. It does nothing. Usually I trouble with the door locks, but that was the easy part.
Would you know a simple system? Just need to start and lock/unlock doors, do not need all the other bells and whistles.
Thanks, again for all your help.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 03, 2012 at 4:31 PM / IP Logged  
You're guessing?
You believe?
TEST.
mikten 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: May 20, 2004
Posted: June 03, 2012 at 4:52 PM / IP Logged  
The 12v is right. No guessing there. I have 2 wires grounded. One from H2 and one from H6. Those are right. I did ground the hood pin switch, but do not have it installed yet. Unless I am missing something, wires are connected right. The only thing I am not sure about is whether to ground the Yellow wire on H5 which is used for the transponder which I do not have yet. Should be here tomorrow.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 03, 2012 at 4:58 PM / IP Logged  
I'm assuming H5 yellow is your GWR AKA status output wire and turns on the by-pass don't ground it but it should read ground when you initiate the R/S and by the way if your reading is 12V, that's too low.
You should be getting about 12.4-12.6V+
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