rs '07 scion tc compustar/blade

After a ton of reading on here, I have... a big first post. I’ll be installing a Compustar CM6000 with Blade AL (TB) in 2007 Scion tC, manual transmission. The Blade AL really only serves as a transponder bypass (Blade TB) for this vehicle; I selected it in case I want to move it to another vehicle later, etc. I haven’t asked iDatalink, but I’m hoping that it will also at least read some information from the vehicle that might cut down on the inputs to the CM6000, if nothing else. I’ll be ordering the RF-P2W901-SS remote, but have waited to see if there’s a Canadian one I can find for the proximity unlock.

 

The problem I’m experiencing, and it seems fairly common, is knowing what I can forego hooking up on the CM6000 because I’m using the Blade. Looking at similar posts I find conflicting information. Granted, these are different vehicles, but it seems odd that in one thread, power wires (CN1) aren’t even used, even though one though it seems power should be a given. Examples:

 

< color=#954f72 face=Verdana>https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132695&tpn=1&PN=1 – Toyota, newer and push-to-start, but seems to imply that I don’t need pins 1-3 on CN1 connected due to the Blade

< color=#954f72 face=Verdana>https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124842&get=last, Honda but implies that even with the Blade, I do hook up all wires on CN1.

 

Moving on...

 

As for CN3, I’ve read the CM6000 and Blade manuals, and the only (un)helpful statement is “You only need to connect the main ignition harness and your needed wires on the 20 pin Blade connector.” So... which are my needed wires? I’d also really appreciate not just the connections, but confirmation on what should be diode isolated. And... I’m curious about the use of the starter kill relay, since the Blade is taking the place of several functions of the CM6000. Should I just remove it from the equation altogether?

 

Without further ado, here’s what I’m thinking so far. Lots of question marks, but many are there simply to confirm.

 

CN1

1 White   Not Used – integral in Blade? Or Gray (+) ignition switch, pin 3?2 Yellow  Not Used – integral in Blade? Or Black (+) ignition switch, pin 1?3 Green   Blue (+) @ ignition switch, pin 6? Diode isolate?

4 Black    Chassis ground (or integral in Blade?)

5 Red       Red (+) @ ignition switch, pin 7.

6 GREEN / WHITE      Brown (+) @ dash fuse box, plug A, pin 29? Diode isolate?

 

CN3

1  Blue          Not used, integral in Blade? 2  ORANGE / Black          Not Used?3  GREEN / WHITE Brown (-), Pin 14 on 17-pin Headlight Switch?4  Light Blue    (-) Emergency Brake Input, or supplied by Blade?5  RED / Black    Green (+) from ignition switch pin 1, or supplied by Blade?6  Light Blue/White       Blue (+) from dash fuse box plug A, pin 9, (or brake switch) or supplied by Blade?7  Green         Yellow (+) from ignition switch pin 4, or supplied by Blade?8  Violet/Black  Not Used on tC, although could rig up a relay to the trunk light...9  WHITE/ Black  Not Used (?)10 RED / White    Orange (-) @ dash fuse box, plug A, pin 21, or supplied by Blade?11 Black          Not used - integral in Blade? Otherwise, need to use for clutch bypass? (Diode isolated?)12 BROWN / White Not Used, or part of CN4?13 Orange       Not Used, no factory alarm14 Pink Not Used15 ORANGE / White  Not Used – no factory alarm16 Yellow/Black Black (AC) @ OBD-II connector, pin 9, or supplied by Blade?17 White          White (-) @ horn switch, or dash fuse box plug E, pin 2518 Gray/Black   Hood pin (to be installed)19 Violet          Not used, so I intend to use for POC #9 from Special Option Group 2, for my defrost 2 [21], then Option Group 3-13 I’ll use setting III, only below 42 degrees f. Although I’ll need to determine if it should be (-), and may need to put a relay in. If you know, I’d appreciate it. 20 Brown         Siren (to be installed)

 

CN4 (Blade) – of the 20, only covering the 4 used ones per type 2 diagram

1 Gray/Red   Pin 5 @ ignition switch

2 GREEN/ Red  Pin 4 @ ignition switch

9 White       Chassis ground

20 WHITE/ Black          Oddly, nowhere seems to specify, and the Blade install only mentions “keysense,” even though it specifies other wires. pin 1 at 2-pin key sensor? I’ve checked diagrams here, bulldogsecurity, commando, and various Google searches. Yet it does have a transponder.

 

CN5 – this is the part that I think will need to be done regardless of Blade AL, since the unlock features aren’t supported on my car.

1          Not used

2 Violet/White     Not used

3 ORANGE / Black    Not going to use, I’m fine with both doors unlocking together.

4 Blue   Pink/Purple, white 20-pin plug in driver’s kick panel, pin 18. Will require double pulse. Diode isolate?

5 Blue/Black        RED / Gray white 20-pin plug in driver’s kick panel, pin 19. Diode isolate?

6         Not used

 

One other thought: both windows have one-touch up and down, and the one-touch can both be controlled from the driver’s side. Was thinking of setting two POCs for these functions (possibly another for roof close).

 

If you're willing and able to help, thank you so much.

Well, that was brilliant. The big warning of not copying and pasting from a rich text editor that I noticed right *after* submitting.

If someone will delete this thread I can repost. Otherwise, second try...

After a ton of reading on here, I have... a big first post. I’ll be installing a Compustar CM6000 with Blade AL (TB) in 2007 Scion tC, manual transmission. The Blade AL really only serves as a transponder bypass (Blade TB) for this vehicle; I selected it in case I want to move it to another vehicle later, etc. I haven’t asked iDatalink, but I’m hoping that it will also at least read some information from the vehicle that might cut down on the inputs to the CM6000, if nothing else. I’ll be ordering the RF-P2W901-SS remote, but have waited to see if there’s a Canadian one I can find for the proximity unlock.

The problem I’m experiencing, and it seems fairly common, is knowing what I can forego hooking up on the CM6000 because I’m using the Blade. Looking at similar posts I find conflicting information. Granted, these are different vehicles, but it seems odd that in one thread, power wires (CN1) aren’t even used, even though one though it seems power should be a given. Examples:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132695&tpn=1&PN=1 – Toyota, newer and push-to-start, but seems to imply that I don’t need pins 1-3 on CN1 connected due to the Blade

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124842&get=last, Honda but implies that even with the Blade, I do hook up all wires on CN1.

Moving on...

As for CN3, I’ve read the CM6000 and Blade manuals, and the only (un)helpful statement is “You only need to connect the main ignition harness and your needed wires on the 20 pin Blade connector.” So... which are my needed wires? I’d also really appreciate not just the connections, but confirmation on what should be diode isolated. And... I’m curious about the use of the starter kill relay, since the Blade is taking the place of several functions of the CM6000. Should I just remove it from the equation altogether?

Without further ado, here’s what I’m thinking so far. Lots of question marks, but many are there simply to confirm.

CN1

1 White        Not Used – integral in Blade? Or Gray (+) ignition switch, pin 3?2 Yellow       Not Used – integral in Blade? Or Black (+) ignition switch, pin 1?3 Green         Blue (+) @ ignition switch, pin 6? Diode isolate? 4 Black         Chassis ground (or integral in Blade?)5 Red Red (+) @ ignition switch, pin 7.6 GREEN / WHITE   Brown (+) @ dash fuse box, plug A, pin 29? Diode isolate?

CN3

1   Blue   Not used, integral in Blade? 2   ORANGE / Black       Not Used?3   GREEN / WHITE        Brown (-), Pin 14 on 17-pin Headlight Switch?4   Light Blue         (-) Emergency Brake Input, or supplied by Blade?5   RED / Black          Green (+) from ignition switch pin 1, or supplied by Blade?6   Light Blue/White   Blue (+) from dash fuse box plug A, pin 9, (or brake switch) or supplied by Blade?7   Green   Yellow (+) from ignition switch pin 4, or supplied by Blade?8   Violet/Black        Not Used on tC, although could rig up a relay to the trunk light...9   WHITE/ Black         Not Used (?)10  RED / White Orange (-) @ dash fuse box, plug A, pin 21, or supplied by Blade?11  Black   Not used - integral in Blade? Otherwise, need to use for clutch bypass? (Diode isolated?)12  BROWN / White         Not Used, or part of CN4?13  Orange Not Used, no factory alarm14  Pink    Not Used15  ORANGE / White        Not Used – no factory alarm16  Yellow/Black        Black (AC) @ OBD-II connector, pin 9, or supplied by Blade?17  White   White (-) @ horn switch, or dash fuse box plug E, pin 2518  Gray/Black          Hood pin (to be installed)19  Violet   Not used, so I intend to use for POC #9 from Special Option Group 2, for my defrost 2 [21], then Option Group 3-13 I’ll use setting III, only below 42 degrees f. Although I’ll need to determine if it should be (-), and may need to put a relay in. If you know, I’d appreciate it. 20  Brown Siren (to be installed)

CN4 (Blade) – of the 20, only covering the 4 used ones per type 2 diagram

1 Gray/Red       Pin 5 @ ignition switch2 GREEN/ Red      Pin 4 @ ignition switch9 White          Chassis ground20 WHITE/ Black   Oddly, nowhere seems to specify, and the Blade install only mentions “keysense,” even though it specifies other wires. pin 1 at 2-pin key sensor? I’ve checked diagrams here, bulldogsecurity,

CN5 – this is the part that I think will need to be done regardless of Blade AL, since the unlock features aren’t supported on my car.

1    Not used2 Violet/White   Not used3 ORANGE / Black   Not going to use, I’m fine with both doors unlocking together.4 Blue Pink/Purple, white 20-pin plug in driver’s kick panel, pin 18. Will require double pulse. Diode isolate?5 Blue/Black     RED / Gray white 20-pin plug in driver’s kick panel, pin 19. Diode isolate?6    Not used.

One other thought: both windows have one-touch up and down, and the one-touch can both be controlled from the driver’s side. Was thinking of setting two POCs for these functions (possibly another for roof close). Thoughts?

The blade does transponder only. Nothing else on your car. Hook up the wires as shown in the blade al install guide using firmware TL.

As much as I first thought that was mostly a sarcastic response and of no help... after a few minutes I realized you pointed out the glaringly obvious: That being that transponder bypass does not equal remote start. So, thank you. And now that I've engaged my brain, anyone mind telling me if I've missed anything on this much more complete list, including unneeded or missing diodes? Once I've got this part, I'll probably confirm about windows up/down on a POC.

CN1

1 White        Gray (+) ignition switch, pin 32 Yellow       Black (+) ignition switch, pin 13 Green        Blue (+) @ ignition switch, pin 6 (connect thin green one, too, which goes to starter kill relay) 4 Black         Chassis ground5 Red Red (+) @ ignition switch, pin 7.6 GREEN / WHITE   Brown (+) @ dash fuse box, plug A, pin 29? Diode isolate?

CN3

1   Blue   Pre-wired to starter kill relay2   ORANGE / Black       Brown (-), pin 14 on headlight switch (If it's (-) when they're on, which it appears but I'll check)3   GREEN / WHITE        N/A (CN1 #6 does same thing, only +)4   Light Blue         (-) Emergency Brake Input5   RED / Black          To purple on second starter relay6   Light Blue/White   ?? Blue (+) from dash fuse box plug A, pin 97   Green   N/A (would be a 3rd relay to Ign2, but that's where CN4 pin 2 goes)8   Violet/Black        N/A9   WHITE/ Black         N/A10  RED / White Orange (-) @ dash fuse box, plug A, pin 2111  Black   To (-) on clutch switch when clutch is depressed12  BROWN / White         Not used, supplied by Blade (Keysense. Q: if it's to prevent setting reservation mode while key is in, do I need to use it despite Blade?)13  Orange N/A14  Pink    N/A 15  ORANGE / White        N/A16  Yellow/Black        Black (AC) @ OBD-II connector, pin 9 - confirm17  White   White (-) @ horn switch, or dash fuse box plug E, pin 2518  Gray/Black          Hood pin19  Violet   Not used, so I intend to use for POC #9 from Special Option Group 2, for my defrost 2 [21], then Option Group 3-13 I’ll use setting III, only below 42 degrees f. Although I’ll need to determine if it should be (-), and may need to put a relay in. If you know, I’d appreciate it. 20  Brown   Siren (to be installed)

CN4 (Blade) – of the 20, only covering the 4 used ones per type 2 diagram

1 Gray/Red       Pin 5 @ ignition switch2 GREEN/ Red      Yellow (+), pin 4 @ ignition switch (2nd ignition)9 White          Chassis ground (ummm... Wouldn't this be redundant due to CN1 pin 4?)20 WHITE/ Black   Keysense

CN5

1    Not used2 Violet/White   Not used3 ORANGE / Black   Not going to use, I’m fine with both doors unlocking together.4 Blue Pink/Purple, white 20-pin plug in driver’s kick panel, pin 18. Will require double pulse. Diode isolate?5 Blue/Black     RED / Gray white 20-pin plug in driver’s kick panel, pin 19. Diode isolate?6    Not used

Some updates listed. Basically a bit of confusion between the 8 Pin Main Ignition Plug and the 7 Pin Transponder Plug found at the ignition switch. Your Tc has two Ignition wires and two Starter wires and one Accessory wire. They all need to be powered. The Compustar can directly support one Starter, one Ignition and one Accessory from the CN1 6 Pin connector. You have the Starter2 handled correctly with the CN3 RED / Black wire going to the extra relay in the kit. You will need to obtain another relay to handle the Ignition2 wire in a similar manor using CN3 Green wire. The Blade does not handle that for you. The CN4 GREEN/ Red connection goes to the 7 Pin Transponder plug, Yellow Code Data wire, for the Blade transponder bypass function. The Blade needs it's own Chassis Ground connection for the Keysense control output wire. CN1 1 White        Gray (+) ignition switch, pin 3 2 Yellow       Black (+) ignition switch, pin 1 3 Green        Blue (+) @ ignition switch, pin 6 (connect thin green one, too, which goes to starter kill relay) 4 Black        Chassis ground 5 Red  Red (+) @ ignition switch, pin 7. 6 GREEN / WHITE   Brown (+) @ dash fuse box, plug A, pin 29? Diode isolate?      No diode needed CN3 1   Blue      Pre-wired to starter kill relay 2   ORANGE / Black       Brown (-), pin 14 on headlight switch (If it's (-) when they're on, which it appears but I'll check) 3   GREEN / WHITE        N/A (CN1 #6 does same thing, only +) Correct 4   Light Blue        (-) Emergency Brake Input     Black (-)   @ parking brake switch 5   RED / Black To purple on second starter relay 6   Light Blue/White    Blue (+) from dash fuse box plug A, pin 9 or @ Brake Pedal Switch 7   Green    N/A (would be a 3rd relay to Ign2, but that's where CN4 pin 2 goes) not really, see notes above. 8   Violet/Black        N/A 9   WHITE/ Black        N/A 10 RED / White  Orange (-) @ dash fuse box, plug A, pin 21 *** This is only the Drivers door.       also need      RF Latch BLUE (-) TOP OF FUSE BOX   Diode isolate these two inputs. 11 Black     To (-) on clutch switch when clutch is depressed 12 BROWN / White        Not used, read CM600 guide for Keysense option use 13 Orange  N/A 14 Pink N/A 15 ORANGE / White        N/A 16 Yellow/Black        Black (AC) @ OBD-II connector, pin 9 - confirm with DMM set to 20V AC 17 WhiteWhite (-) @ horn switch, or dash fuse box plug E, pin 25 18 Gray/Black Hood pin 19 VioletNot used, so I intend to use for POC #9 from Special Option Group 2, for my defrost 2 [21], then Option Group 3-13 I’ll use setting III, only below 42 degrees f. Although I’ll need to determine if it should be (-), and may need to put a relay in. If you know, I’d appreciate it.    Do you have the OP-500 programmer? 20 Brown    Siren (to be installed) CN4 (Blade) – of the 20, only covering the 4 used ones per type 2 diagram 1 Gray/Red       Pin 5 of 7 Pin Plug @ ignition switch  This is the Transponder plug, not the Main Ignition plug 2 GREEN/ Red      Yellow (+), pin 4 of 7 Pin Plug @ ignition switch     This is the Transponder plug, not the Main Ignition plug 9 White Chassis ground (ummm... Wouldn't this be redundant due to CN1 pin 4?)   No, must connect to Chassis Ground 20 WHITE/ Black   Keysense CN5 1 Not used 2 Violet/White   Not used       ORANGE (-) 12 PIN CONNECTOR DRIVER KICK, PIN #12 3 ORANGE / Black   Not going to use, I’m fine with both doors unlocking together. 4 Blue Pink/Purple, white 20-pin plug in driver’s kick panel, pin 18. Will require double pulse. Diode isolate? No diode 5 Blue/Black     RED / Gray white 20-pin plug in driver’s kick panel, pin 19. Diode isolate? No Diode 6 Not used Soldering is fun!

Ha! Ihe moment I read your comment about transponder versus ignition plug I had to think "and he bothered to respond to my drivel??" So, thank you! Glad the Aha moment was now, and not once it clicked as I was under there.

Regarding rear defrost, I don't have the OP-500; I do have the ADS-USB. While the web interface doesn't have Special Option Group 1, I did see that I have Special Option Group 2. I'm not at that computer with the hardware available presently to make absolutely sure and/or grab a screen snip, so hopefully this isn't a foot-in-mouth moment.

For CN3 Pin 12, I think the wording in the CM6000 manual is what led me to question, I was overthinking it into being a conflict between the Blade outputting to Keysense. So that one looks N/A.

Question on CN5 pin 2 -There trunk has a button on the underside of the latch handle that only functions when both doors are unlocked, but I do need to lift the lid the first foot or so until the gas charged cylinders take over. It seems hooking this wire up would just make the servo motor work the latch, which would be a bit redundant as I'd need to have my hand right next to, or on, the button anyway. Unless the intent is to change out the compressed gas cylinders for stronger ones (which isn't a bad idea, as long as they wouldn't then create other issues like too much trunnk flex). Am I (quite possibly) missing something, for instance the trunk button longer being tied to door unlock? I can certainly hook it up as instructed, mostly trying to understand.

Mostly to clean up formatting and in case any additional changes....

CN1

1 White    Gray (+) ignition switch, pin 3 2 Yellow             Black (+) ignition switch, pin 1 3 Green     Blue (+) @ ignition switch, pin 6 (connect thin green one, too, which goes to starter kill relay) 4 Black  Chassis ground 5 Red      Red (+) @ ignition switch, pin 7 6 GREEN / WHITE   Brown (+) @ dash fuse box, plug A, pin 29

CN3

1   Blue          Pre-wired to starter kill relay 2   ORANGE / Black      Brown (-), pin 14 on headlight switch (Verify (-) only when lights on) 3   GREEN / WHITE        N/A4   Light Blue            Black (-) @ parking brake switch 5   RED / Black            To purple on second starter relay 6   Lt Blue/White       Blue (+) from dash fuse box plug A, pin 9 or @ Brake Pedal Switch 7   Green        Yellow (+) @ ignition switch, add a relay to reverse polarity.8   Violet/Black N/A 9   WHITE/ Black          N/A 10 RED / White  Orange (-) @ dash fuse box, plug A, pin 21; and RF Latch BLUE (-) TOP OF FUSE BOX. Diode isolate these two inputs. 11 Black          To (-) on clutch switch when clutch is depressed 12 BROWN / White         Not used13 Orange       N/A 14 Pink             N/A 15 ORANGE / White        N/A 16 Yellow/Black          Black (AC) @ OBD-II connector, pin 9 - confirm with DMM set to 20V AC 17 White          White (-) @ horn switch, or dash fuse box plug E, pin 25 18 Gray/Black     Hood pin 19 Violet           Not used, so I'd like to use for rear Defrost, see above. 20 Brown         Siren

CN4 (Blade)

1 Gray/Red     Pin 5 of 7 Pin at transponder (not ignition) switch      2 GREEN/ Red     Yellow (+), pin 4 of 7 at transponder plug9 White  Chassis ground 20 WHITE/ Black  Keysense

CN5

1 Not used 2 Violet/White             ORANGE (-) 12 PIN CONNECTOR DRIVER KICK, PIN #12 3 ORANGE / Black          Not going to use, I’m fine with both doors unlocking together. 4 Blue Pink/Purple    White 20-pin plug in driver’s kick panel, pin 18. Will require double pulse5 Blue/Black    RED / Gray white 20-pin plug in driver’s kick panel, pin 196 Not used

Looking good.    I haven't played around with the Option Programming while doing the Blade Flash on-line for a while. I always use the OP-500 for the Special Option Groups. You might be able to do it that way, so give us an update if it is possible. As for the Trunk Release, you might be correct there, too. Holding down the Compustar Trunk Release button for 2.5 seconds does both, a disarm followed by a trunk pop. But on your car, if the trunk lid does not rise up by itself away from the latch, the simple 0.8 second signal won't do much for you. Probably can leave that wire "not used" and just press the trunk button on the latch handle like usual after the doors are unlocked. Only other thing I noticed is this omission : CN3 Pin 8 Violet/Black Trunk Pin       to      Purple (-)    top of fuse box, 30 pin plug, pin 7 For the Alarm and Manual Transmission Remote Start, you should monitor all access points. And last but not least, does the vehicle have a Factory Alarm? ( I realize you are installing a CM6000 but it wouldn't be the first time someone had two alarm systems on their car.)   With Toyota's there are two ways to unlock the doors. Your chart is using the standard Lock and Unlock wires but it is usually done using the Arm & Disarm wires as shown : Factory Alarm Arm green to blue (-)@ driver kick, 20 pin plug, pin 15    Factory Alarm Disarm purple to pink (double pulse) (-) @ driver kick, 20 pin plug, pin 14 Doing it this way does both, alarm & locks. Here is a note from ReadyRemote on your lock wires : Only use this wire if the door locks do not function when remote started. All other times use the factory alarm arm wire. Only use this wire if the door locks do not function when remote started. All other times use the factory alarm disarm wire.Soldering is fun!

Awesome, thanks so much! I've added CN3 Pin 8. Should have mentioned that one; I wasn't finding trunk release on any of the 4 charts I'd found (blind.. again???), was intending to see if it was included in the door release signal. Forgot to add it back in when you pointed out that was only for driver's side door, anyway.

No factory alarm. The alarm is secondary in ways, but it would be kind of foolish to bother adding remote start without it I, I figured. IGot fed up with cold winters, and with needing a new engine before I need a new clutch (hooray Toyota pistons), I figure I'm keeping it for a while.

I'll confirm the Special Option Group 2 being available tonight. If you're willing to provide input on defroster and windows... probably just a relay into the defrost momentary switch, or ideally at the fuse box? Or will using the thermister and enabling that option mean no relay, possibly diode isolated? Oh, and any thoughts on the one-touch up/down on the windows (primarily up). In a perfect world, I'd do the roof, too, but it's kind of a pain since it stops halfway (more like 3/4) back, then you have to tap the button again. Not the most friendly switch.

Here is the power window info for your car ( from Audiovox ) : LF Window Up YELLOW (REV) DRIVER DOOR WINDOW SWITCH    LF Window Dn PINK (REV) DRIVER DOOR WINDOW SWITCH    RF Window Up YELLOW (REV) DRIVER DOOR WINDOW SWITCH    RF Window Dn GREEN (REV) DRIVER DOOR WINDOW SWITCH Check out the DEI 530T Install Guide for features, options and wiring : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=758 If you wanted to save some money, use a DEI 529T for an "up only" function. Don't have any info on the TC's rear defrost circuit, sorry.Soldering is fun!

I'm still waiting on the RF-P2W901-SS, since it was never actually sent and I'm having to reorder it.

For the windows, since they both already have one-touch up/down from the driver's switch, I was trying to figure out if there's a way to simply use that. Reading more, I think it's possible, but probably not practical. Although since I won't be wanting to leave the windows down much for the next 8ish months of Northwest rain, I suppose I can wait on that aspect in case anything does come to mind...

On the defrost... it's a momentary button that turns a 15-minute relay on, with a light also going back to the switch. I'll have to play around and see if I can get the relay to turn on by running one of the 250mA POCs directly to it (possibly diode isolated, but in reading, it looks like the POCs are already diode isolated), or if I need to run another relay to trigger the defrost relay. Thanks for looking at what you had available! Once I'm done I'll post a cleaned-up and completed version to the documents section.