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u1272, 2009 kia sedona


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salderink 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2013
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: December 29, 2013 at 3:08 PM / IP Logged  
Hi All,
Thanks to Kreg I have successfully tied together an ultrastart 1272XR pro and a fortin evo-all in my 2009 Kia Sedona.
I was able to program the evo-all and thought I was completely successful when I remote started the vehicle one time.
That is where my success has ended.
The van will now try to start three times and fail.
The engine SOUNDS like it wants to fire but will not start.
The van starts fine with the key.
I watched the light flashes and it flashes 8 times indicating it tried to start three time and failed.
I reset the Ultra system, or so I thought because I cannot remember if I went through the tach learning process.
Anyway, I am stumped.
It seems like there is a system not turning on as it should.
Does this sound like the fortin unit is not firing up correctly?
Thanks for any help.
chev104275 
Gold - Posts: 1,436
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2007
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: December 29, 2013 at 4:08 PM / IP Logged  
Most of those vans didn't have chip keys. Does the black part of the key have an M stamped on it ? Just something to rule out.
Can you do a key take over successfully ?
If you can't remember learning tach I would do it again.
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 29, 2013 at 4:29 PM / IP Logged  

When connecting the EVO-ALL's wires, did you find the Sedona's Red Data wire?  If it wasn't there, did you follow the EVO-ALL Programming 2 sequence?

I agree with chev104275, sound like a Tach issue.  If the U1272 learned the Tach when the engine was started cold, it might be too high.  Try doing the U1272's Manual Tach Learn ( re-Learn ) Process with the engine warm.  If that doesn't work, warm up the engine, then do a U1272 System Reset, program any necessary options, then start the Sedona with the key.  Ensure the Horn / Parking Light good Tach Learn confirmation signal.

Soldering is fun!
salderink 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2013
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: December 29, 2013 at 5:28 PM / IP Logged  
Ok, so a little more info.
First off, no there is not an M stamped on the key.
I have been unable to get the system reset to this point as far as I know because I could not find my horn wire.
The wiring diagrams I have looked at are different in where they want you to pick out the horn.
I failed in my first attempt to locate the horn wire and my wipers came on and sprayed washer fluid constantly. u1272, 2009 kia sedona -- posted image.
So, with that said here is what I attempted and I will answer questions as well.
In the hookup process I thought I found the Red data wire going to a Black plastic piece around the ignition switch so I tapped that.
This left me unable to program the Fortin Bypass as it would never go past the first step of stopping on the yellow.
When I re-inserted the plugs and turned the key nothing happened, the light stayed yellow.
So I disconnected those wires and wired the Red wire back inline.
I then proceeded to fortin programming two.
This passed muster this morning and I thought I had it licked because that is when I got the van to start.
I did NOT pay attention to what was where when I started it properly so that is when I posted earlier.
I just tried to reset it again and was mostly unsuccessful.
I thought maybe I mis-programmed one of the fobs so I tried the second fob and it started........ but then I noticed I had the keys in the ignition.
I took the keys out and it went back to not starting.
So to start properly I MUST have the key in the ignition and in the ON position for it to remote start.
I am wondering now if the Fortin is either programmed incorrectly or has failed as this sounds more like the bypass is not working correctly or loose connection?
chev104275 
Gold - Posts: 1,436
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2007
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: December 29, 2013 at 5:42 PM / IP Logged  
With no M stamp I would have to say you don't have a chipped key. As far as it starting with the key. in and turned on. It seems you missed some ignition wires. Could you list out your connections so we can get a better understanding of what going on.
You can grab the horn in a few spots.one of the easier shops should be right at the switch it's yellow (ground triggered)
It also sounds like your connecting wires with out testing. Please test with a multi meter before you connect anything. It could end up costing you a lot of money if anything were to burn up.
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
salderink 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2013
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: December 30, 2013 at 6:55 AM / IP Logged  
Ok, here is the copy of the spreadsheet I used from here to make my connections:
Vehicle Information: 2009 Kia Sedona   
Alarm / Remote Start Unit: UltraStart U1272XR-Pro   
Bypass Module: Fortin Evo-All   
Alarm / Remote Start / Bypass Unit   Vehicle
Connection     Color     Description     Color     Polarity     Location:
Pin 1     Yellow     6 Pin Connector / Starter     Orange     Pos     Harness Behind Inst. Cluster
Pin 2     Green     6 Pin Connector / Accessory     Blue     Pos     Harness Behind Inst. Cluster
Pin 3     Red     6 Pin Connector / Power #1     White     Pos     Drivers Kick
Pin 4     Red     6 Pin Connector / Power #2     White     Pos     Drivers Kick
Pin 5     White     6 Pin Connector / Accessory 2     Pink     Pos     Harness Behind Inst. Cluster
Pin 6     Blue     6 Pin Connector / Ignition     Green     Pos     Harness Behind Inst. Cluster
Pin 1     Black     2 Pin Connector / Ground   Chassis Ground
Pin 2     White     2 Pin Connector / Parking Lights     Blue     Neg     Connector at stalk
Pin 1     Green     3 Pin Connector / Doors Lock     Purple     Neg     Evo-All handling through data-link
Pin 2
Pin 3     Blue     3 Pin Connector / Doors Unlock     PURPLE / White     Neg     Evo-All handling through data-link
Pin 5     WHITE/ Blue     9 Pin Connector / Horn Output     Yellow     Neg     Instrument Panel Module (Not Found)
Pin 6     Pink     9 Pin Connector / Brake Switch Input     Black     Pos     Evo-All 20 Pin Connector
Pin 7     GREEN / WHITE     9 Pin Connector / Hood Pin Input     Pink/Black     Neg     Evo-All 20 Pin Connector
Pin 8     Blue/White     9 Pin Connector / Tach Wire Input     Pink     A/C     Evo-All 20 Pin Connector
Pin 1     WHITE/ Violet     3 Pin Connector / Ground When Running     Dk. Blue     Neg     Evo-All 20 Pin Connector
Evo     Yellow     20 Pin Connector / Ignition   
Evo     Gray/Black     5 Pin Connector     White     A/C     Drivers Kick
Evo     Gray     5 Pin Connector     Black     A/C     Drivers Kick
Evo     ORANGE / Brown     5 Pin Connector     Orange     A/C     OBD-II
Evo     ORANGE / Green     5 Pin Connector     Blue     A/C     OBD-II
One last thing I noticed this morning, when I turn the lights on part of my console parts do not work and my dash lights and convenience lighting does not work.
I do NOT have the horn output from the 1272 hooked up.
salderink 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2013
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: December 30, 2013 at 8:14 AM / IP Logged  
OK, it helps to have you guys bang me upside the head I think.
I fixed the issue.
I NEVER put the whole dash back together until I have a fully working system and yesterday morning when I THOUGHT I had this working I was too lazy to start putting things back together.
Good thing I didn't and not such a good thing.
When I pulled apart to see the connections a few minutes ago I found that my Main connector, the 6 pin plug on the U1272 was almost all the way out.
I plugged this back in and verified it snapped in this time, retested and the system worked great.
I located the horn output at the column finally and attached that.
My problem with the dash lights and accessory lights was due to the fact that I had the dimmer switch unhooked as part of the kick panel underneath.
Plugged this in and everything is working great!!
Thanks for the help!!

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