I agree with most of what tedmond said (he's really smart!) but disagree about a couple of things.
1. I think that's right.
2. The iDatalink-branded (in orange box) will come with a data-to-data cable that's compatible with Compustar and some others. Audiovox uses its own unique connector.
So the short answer is no, what's in the box will not plug in.
If you (or a friend) is a professional installer with spare parts laying around, it wouldn't be too hard to dig up a 4-pin connector that fits the 997E, then cut off one end of the ADS cable and splice onto what you have. I have done this before.
What I would do is just try to get a Flashlogic FLDL1 or FLCAN. They come with the correct cable. FLDL1 is a little cheaper and does a limited number of cars. FLCAN costs more and can be reflashed to do many different cars---good if you think you will change cars in the future and you might want to remove your system and put it in the new car.
3. They don't pick up brake signal from the car's databus on your car. Hardwire Prestige BROWN / black direct to the WHITE/ black in the car. (NOTE: There are some wire bundles right near the brake switch, and there are two WHITE/ blacks in there. One is brake; test carefully.)
4. Yes, the new Audiovox units can switch between DBI and ADS which is nice. DBI never worked right when it came out, and after years and years they finally decided to do their job and have it actually work.....so I don't see much need for them to add the second protocol now. They should have done it five years ago, though.
So anyway....the orange-box ADS products cannot be flashed for DBI. So you'll have to switch the Prestige over to ADS. The ADS protocol should work better.
I haven't tried the combination of products you have in mind, but I think it should work just fine.
5. I would do it differently.
Channel 4 is really best suited for rear defrost----during remote start, it can only be used one time and that's it. So if the remote starter is on and you use the remote to open the sliding door, and then you try to use the remote to close it again, it won't work.
Channel 3 (trunk) you might want to use. It's permanently shared with the remote-start button (can't be changed) and you use it by holding the remote-start button for 4 seconds....it's a long time.
So, you've got those extra channels 5, 6, and 7, right? Ok here's what I would do:
Channels 3 AND 5 to one of the sliding door inputs on the bypass (I will explain why both)
Channel 6 to the other sliding door input on the bypass
You'll have to first de-program and then re-program the remotes to work the way you'll want.....
Program the remotes as follows:
A: Program channels 1-3 as normal---lock, unlock, remote start
B: Program channel 4 to some button combination you will never use---I use Lock and Unlock together.
C: On the one-way remote, program channel 5 to button #1. On the two-way remote, program channel 5 to two buttons you'd like to use at the same time to open one of the doors. Lock and Start together maybe?
D: On the one-way remote, program channel 6 to button #2, and on the two-way remote, again use two buttons that make sense to you. Maybe unlock and start together.
HOW IT WILL WORK: On the one-way remote, it's simple. Buttons 1 and 2 do your two sliding doors.
On the two-way remote, it's more complicated. For one door, you can choose to hold and press the trunk button, OR the two-button combination you programmed. For the other door, you've got your other two-button combination.
SUGGESTIONS: Envision the one-way remote while standing at the back of the car. You should make #1 do the left door, #2 do the right door. If you look at the OEM remote, that's the way they designed it too.
For the two-way remote, make the most convenient button combination do the door you use the most. (Maybe passenger door? It's by the sidewalk when parked; safer for kids.)
So, the van's driver could choose between the trunk or the two-button combo for the passenger slider, but must use the other two-button combination for the driver's slider. Not ideal, but the best you can do since the two-way remote doesn't have #1 and #2 buttons.
NOTE ABOUT AUDIOVOX REMOTE PROGRAMMING: It's frustrating. You won't get all the buttons right the first time or even the second or third time. It's noisy because the designers didn't put enough thought into the length of the chirp sounds during programming.
Either you should only connect horn and siren AFTER programming, or plan to complete your installation at home, but drive to some deserted place to reprogram the remotes.
6. Half and half. The folks at ADS won't let you use most of the inputs during data-to-data mode. Lock, unlock, ground-when-running are all disabled. It's stupid but that's how they did it.
However, the analog outputs still work when in data. So if you're having trouble with one of the outputs through data (door, tach, et cetera) you can still add that wire in analog while leaving the data cable in place.
7. Should be DBI tach no matter which data protocol you choose. This is just one of the many errors Audiovox includes in their manuals, at no extra charge.