1999 Taurus Viper 5706V Pkall Priority locks etc

Hi all, awesome forum/site here, I've learned a lot in the past week just doing my research but at this point teh bain is mush...and I'm struggling with a couple questions. I want to retain the OEM alarm but gain the remote start portion/keyless entry of the Viper system. Here’s what I’m working with: Vehicle :1999 Ford Taurus Wagon, 3.0 24V with RKE and Anti-theft (PATS) Alarm/Remote Start: Viper 5706V and Pkall 1) I've got OEM priority locks, which has 2 unlock relays, one for the driver door and one unlock relya for "all doors." Is there a way to get the 5706v to have priority locks? Ive come across other install manuals (5901, etc) that have explicit wiring instructions for priority locks but I'm a bit fuzzy on the 5706v. If I'm reading this right, there is an option in Menu 1-Security, feature 8, Option 1 (default) to do a 2nd unlock. So could I wore the door lock harness, BLUE, to the Driver unlock relay, then wire the H2/17 PINK wire as the 2nd unlock? 2) Looks like I need 4 IGN/ACC type wires powered up to get my ignition coil,climate control, wipers, and defrosters to work during remote starts, however I only have 3 available in the H3/10 Pin, so can I use the H2/23 ORANGE wired to an external relay to control the remaining circuit? (wiring a relay is no prob.) 3) The H2/14 GREEN/ BLACK factory alarm disarm output will be run to the PK/WH wire (GEM or RAP module,) but I don't need to run the H2/24 GREEN / WHITE to turn the factory alarm on? Is that because it will arm itself upon seeing the lock pulse on the PK/WH circuit? Or do I need to run that H2/24 to the PK/YE (which turns to a PK/LB at the RAP module.)? 4) What is the deal with Viper part numbers/options....I ended up with the 5706v for the 2 way/lcd remote and range, but I'm wondering if my lack of understanding Vipers #'s has diked' me over on this door lock thing. Are there better options out there for what I'm trying to do? I've uploaded a pic of the Install guide with my wire remarks/plan. I greatly appreciate your advice/thoughts. I'm a former auto tech so unfortunately, until the financial tide changes...which is coming, I have to rely on former skills to install this vs. happily handing the keys to a pro and picking it up in 4-5 hours, lol! Soon...soon.... Thanks, Rob

1) Green on 5706 to trigger all door close relay, blue to trigger unlock on driver door relay only. WHITE/ violet aux1 H2/7 for unlock trigger other doors. Not the h2/17 pink a negative output when you activate the r/s. 2) Yes. 3) Yes but you might have to suck and see. 4) Once you get to know them you can work out everything. Note cut no wires short until installed and working correctly. As you can see you've already made one serious mistake (#1).

Thanks Howie! 1) got it! (H2/17 PINK is activated when r/s the vehicle so use H2/7 WH/VT Aux 1, do I need to do any menu/options for that or it's default ready to go?) 2) got it! 3) Will try and see... 4) got it! Got it! I won't cut any wires, I'll just roll em/zip tie them out of the way. Thanks again!

No, the aux1 is ready by default press for 2 seconds.

Thanks for the other thing! Here's a diagram for priority locks:- taurus_priority_unlock.png Thoughts:- The diode shown, 1N4004 is mandatory, it will protect the circuitry of the Viper from back EMF when the relay shuts down. Note, hold aux 1 for 2 seconds OR Menu 2 feature 9 option 5, sets aux 1 as secondary unlock, you simply hold the disarm button longer or press it a second time.

1) ;) 2) Thanks for the diagram Howie, but I'm a bit confused, since my oem door lock/unlock circuits use relays, do I need to add that diode to them? Do I need to add a relay to a circuit that already has an oem relay designed/built into it?

The pink / YELLOW and pink/green are low current NEG (-) they switch OEM relays. RED / white is a MOTOR wire. Test, will show 0v at rest, 12V+ for 0.5 of a second on door unlock and therefore needs to be relay driven as per diagram. The diode has nothing to do with OEM equipment it's to protect your 5706 and IMO mandatory.

Here's an update: Got everything wired up correctly, (Thanks Howie II!) Per my #3 question in my original post, I did connect H2/14 GN/BK to the factory alarm DISARM (RAP module) and also H2/24 GN/WH factory alarm ARM output (RAP module.) Something I was confused on in regards to my post above about the driver door unlock and the use of a separate relay, for others who may read this: My driver door unlock is a separate OEM relay and the all door unlock is a separate relay, so I did not have to wire up an aftermarket/separate relay for the Driver door unlock. I just wired Door Lock connector 1/BK to the ground signal of the OEM relay, worked perfectly. My apologies to Howie for not explaining exactly what OEM circuits I was working with. If you do not have factory/OEM individual door unlock relays, then yes, you need to wire up a separate relay as Howie instructed. Also, I could not get the defrogger "pulse" to work, (H2/2, BL/WH.) I programmed it multiple times, even programmed it to the latch and status setting and monitored the output with my multimeter. The status and latch settings worked correctly, but I never got a "pulse" voltage. Contrary to my results, are these Viper alarms set so the defrogger won't pulse/turn on in temps above 45' ? OR, I'm just doing something wrong...? What the heck am I doing wrong here? Lastly, the trans blew up so I'm dumping the car and have moved on to my next car. I was hoping to keep the car till at least next winter but the best decision given other factors is to move on. She was a good car, no complaints... RIP @ 191,000! Thankfully to all of the soldering and using removable connectors ( in case I ever had to diagnose anything or pull it,) I removed the system in 15 minutes, lol! My new (new to me anyway,) car is a push button start so back to the search function before I conjure a new thread. Thanks again Howie II !

PTS? A whole new ball game!!