Remote start install issues 03 Dodge Ram

I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 and tried installing a remote stater (Clifford 4105x) myself after watching a bunch of videos and reading install how-to's and wiring diagrams from places like 12volt and bulldog, but it didn't work - doesn't even try to crank, and I'm stumped. Here's what I did. I was just trying to get the bare minimum working first, just the starter side Remote start 6-pin connector: On remote starter -> On truck Red 12v input to pink/black Pink/white output to 2nd ignition/accessory circuit to RED / white (16 gauge) Red 12v input to RED / white (large wire) Orange output to accessory circuit to green Purple output to starter to yellow Pink output to primary ignition to blue (16 gauge) Remote start harness: On remote starter -> truck BLACK/ white neutral safety to BLACK/ white on ignition harness Violet/white tach to GREEN/ orange on fuel injector Brown brake shutdown -> WHITE/ Tan above brake pedal Main harness: On remote starter -> truck Ground to screw on dash support/frame Nothing happens when pushing remote start button other than the light on the fob lights up while holding the button. I read somewhere that said the output to accessory circuit that is orange coming off remote start box needs to go to both accessory wires on truck (large green AND small orange) so I took another quick splice connector and made an opening in it so it could run two complete wires through it parallel and spliced that into the orange wire of the remote start box as well. No change. I didn't use any of the other wires of the 9 pin harness other than the ground bc it didn't appear I needed them just to get it to start. Itdoesnt have factory alarm and not trying to setup horn or parking lights just yet or trunk release of course. Or even the anti-grind. It does have a WHITE/ blue that says activation input but all I found on that was that if you touch that to a ground source it will start the vehicle just like the remote, I tried that but nothing happened. So I started checking my quick splices and they appear to be fine. The 12v ones are getting constant 12, the accessory and ignition ones get 12 when the key is in run position. The starter gets 12 when key is forward cranking the vehicle. The brake one gets 12v when pressing the brake pedal. All tested while using the ground I made for the unit so should also prove the ground is good. After hours of scouring the internet I'm stumped, near as I can tell none of those connections required relays or resistors, except maybe the part about the accessory circuits off the 6 pin connector needed to both be connected to the wire coming out of the remote starter box? Based on all the diagrams I'm finding it's wired right but clearly something is wrong. Anything I connected wrong? A wire I missed? Long post I know but any help is appreciated.

4105        2003 RAM 1500 H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM        NU H1/2 GREEN / WHITE FACTORY REARM       NU H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) NU H1/4 WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT NU H1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED   NU H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT  BLACK/ RED (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS H1/7 RED / WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT NU H1/8 BLACK GROUND     Chassis Ground H1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH        need a relay and a resistor...         H2/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT     Chassis Ground ( Auto Trans only! ) H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE  ANY wire NOT DARK GREEN/ ORANGE (AC) @ COIL PACK or FUEL INJECTOR H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE WHITE/ TAN (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE  to kit supplied hood pin H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOG      NU 4-pin satellite harness diagram 1 BLUE   (-) STATUS OUTPUT     to bypass module GWR ( if Gray IGN key ) 2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT to Relay Pin 85 3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT   NU 4 PINK (-) IGNITION OUTPUT    NU Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram 6 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT Blue 5 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT        Yellow 4 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT       Green 3 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT    Pink/Black 2 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE se to IGNITION RED / White 1 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT   Pink/Black Door lock harness, 3-pin connector 1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT Use Directed 451M door lock module 2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT Use Directed 451M door lock module Extra relay for ACC2 Relay Pin 85 to 4105 (-) Accessory Output Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V through 20 Amp fuse Relay Pin 30 to Orange @ ignition switch harness A few thoughts... 1. You might need a bypass module. What color is the plastic head on the ignition key? 2. Dump the quick splice connectors and solder your connections. 3. The two accessory wires are separate circuits for a reason. Keep the separated. Use a relay for ACC2. 4. There are several wires that share the same color pattern in the ignition switch harness. You must test to be sure     you are connecting to the correct wire.Soldering is fun!

Ok, I was beginning to think I had the accessory part wrong. I'll correct that with the relay you explained. Will any relay work? And 86 & 87 that go to 12v, is that constant 12v or like ignition 12v? Also from the wiring description above: The BLACK/ white Neutral safety coming from remote starter box goes to a ground and not the BLACK/ white neutral safety wire on steering column? And with the heavy gauge 6 pin harness you listed both 12v 30amp wires as going to the pink/black wire. I currently have one going to pink/black and one going to a RED / white (same size) but you're saying both 12v wires coming off box need to go to that same pink/black wire? When I tested them after by putting probe in slot where the in-line fuse goes, both were getting 12v w/o key in ignition. I have a black key so shouldn't need bypass module. And the only wires I found that had same color was 2 - RED / white 16 gauge wires. Instructions said to use one that acted like ignition and when I tested one it only had 12v with key forward in run position so I used that one. Thanks.

The ACC2 relay should be a Bosch style 30/40 Amp SPDT relay. Use a +12V constant source as the Pin 86 & 87 input. If you have auto trans, connecting the Neutral Safety wire directly to Chassis Ground is OK. Just test the truck to be sure it won't crank with the gear selector in any position other than Park & Neutral and that you can't remove the key without being in Park. Yes, you should split the 4105 +12V power inputs between the available +12V constant wires at the ignition switch harness or go to the Battery.Soldering is fun!

If you want to get the 4105 to control the Parking Lights get another relay and follow this diagram : http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/17044_RAM-FULL-SIZE-PICKUP-_CHRYSLER%20PARKING%20LIGHT%20DIAGRAM.pdf Set the 4105 to (+) Parking Light output and use the diagram on the right. You will have to test to see which resistor value is correct for your truck, either 330 of 1400 ohms. The 330 ohm is a common size while the 1,400 is rare. If you get the Directed 451M Door Lock Module for the power door locks, you can use resistors from there to do both the locks and the Parking Lights. To "create" the 1400 ohm resistor, put the 390 ohm and the 1,000 ohm resistors in series. If you need two 330 ohm resistors ( one for Unlock and one for the Parking Lights ), "create" another 330 ohm resistor by putting the 750, 867 and 1870 in parallel ( results in 330.96 ohms ). Here is the formula / calculator : http://www.1728.org/resistrs.htm Use the Type H diagram with the correct resistors for the Locks.Soldering is fun!

Ok thanks. Lots of good info, I appreciate it. I'll try all that and see what happens.