Trailblazer remote start confusion

Please help me with a remote start install. I think I'm having an information overload & reading too much into it. On top of that I'm worried that I might fry something. I have searched and must have read every remote start thread. But for some reason it still escapes me. I want to install a viper 4806V in my 2006 trailblazer LS w/keyless entry. I'm also considering using the Fortin INT-SL since I don't have to be a dealer to flash it. I am at a loss of how to hook it all up. So far this is how I think the wiring should go. I have no clue on the bypass connections. 4806 Main Harness , 6-pin connector H/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT --- to 12V constant red@ ignition harness(shared w/ fortin datalink red) H/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND --- to existing shared ground screw/bolt? Or new one? (shared w/fortin datalink black) H/3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT--- to black/yellow (-) wire on ignition harness H/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay---(N/A) H/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY---(N/A) H/6 ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT—not sure Door Lock, 3-pin connector (NOT USED) 1 BLUE 500mA (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT 2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN 500mA (-) LOCK OUTPUT Remote Start, 8-pin connector 1 RED/BLACK (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ACC and starter relays ---to 12V constant@ ignition harness(red/white) 2 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY 3 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT--- to white ignition 2 wire 4 RED (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ignition 1 relay ---to 12V constant(red/white) 5 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT --- to yellow starter wire 6 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT --- to orange acc wire. 7 RED/WHITE (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ignition 2 and flex relays --- to 12V constant(shared with H1) 8 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT ---to pink ignition 1 wire Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness 24-pin connector 1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex OUTPUT 2 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT --- Not sure. I do want rear defroster 3 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT 4 BLACK/YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT --- Not sure. I want all interior lights and parking lights to behave like factory. or similar. 5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT 6 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT 7 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT 8 ORANGE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT 9 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) --- whatever comes with the viper 10 BLUE* FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity) 11 WHITE/BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT 12 VIOLET/WHITE** TACHOMETER INPUT --- to white wire (pin49) @ PCM 13 BLACK/WHITE*** (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY /PARKING BRAKE INPUT 14 GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT 15 GREEN** (-) DOOR INPUT 16 EMPTY ------------------------------------ 17 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT 18 VIOLET** (+) DOOR INPUT 19 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT 20 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT --- to white wire @ brake switch harness 21 VIOLET/YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT 22 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT 23 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT --- to relay pin 85_ Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant fused at 25 Amps(should I run a wire from the main fuse box?) _pin 30 to brown acc2 wire. Can I just use ACC1 wire to trigger the ACC2 wire via relay? Or do I have to go through the viper 24 GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT FORTIN INT-SL+ Light Blue_Lock White_Unlock driver 1 Pink_ Ignition Blue_ (-)while running Orange_Door trigger Purple_ ---OB]to OBD2 purple wire Yellow_ NC Light Blue/Black_trunk (not used)? White/Black_Unlock driver 2 Pink/Black_Parking Lights Green_NC Orange/Black_Tach Purple/White_NC Yellow/Black_NC DATA-LINK cable Red ---to 12V constant Black ---to ground Blue –NC White -NC Is it possible to have progressive locks with these components? Thank you in advance for help. I don’t know why I’m having such a hard time with this. Kind of frustrating.

First, here is a link to a Pictorial on your truck that should help : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130514 It uses the same Fortin INT-SL bypass module. Your first issue is that the Viper and the INT-SL must be connected via the W2W method. You will not be able to use the D2D harness and omit a bunch of wires. That really isn't an issue, there aren't many wires, it's more reliable with W2W and you can make those interconnections on the bench prior to install. Here is a link to the Fortin INT-SL install guide : http://cdn.fortin.ca/download/40441/int_chevrolettrailblazer_0207.pdf You mentioned both INT-SL and INT-SL+, so not sure which you have. Either will work. Ok, here goes : ( most of your connections are ok ) 4806 Main Harness , 6-pin connector H/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT --- to 12V constant red@ ignition harness(shared w/ fortin datalink red) H/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND --- to any solid existing shared ground screw/bolt (shared w/fortin datalink black) H/3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT--- to black/yellow (-) wire on ignition harness H/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay-- not used H/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY--- to INT-SL Pink/Black * set Viper to (-) Parking Light output H/6 ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT—not used Door Lock, 3-pin connector (NOT USED) 1 BLUE 500mA (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT              INT-SL White 2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN 500mA (-) LOCK OUTPUT INT-SL Light Blue Remote Start, 8-pin connector 1 RED/BLACK (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ACC and starter relays ---to 12V constant@ ignition harness(red/white) 2 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY      not used 3 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT--- to white ignition 2 wire 4 RED (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ignition 1 relay ---to 12V constant(red/white) 5 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT --- to yellow starter wire 6 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT --- to orange acc wire. 7 RED/WHITE (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT for ignition 2 and flex relays --- to 12V constant(shared with H1) 8 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT ---to pink ignition 1 wire also to INT-SL Pink Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness 24-pin connector 1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex OUTPUT          not used 2 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT --- Not used 3 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT              INT-SL Light Blue/Black 4 BLACK/YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT --- Not sure. I want all interior lights and parking lights to behave like factory. or similar. 5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT INT-SL Blue 6 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT              not used 7 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT             not used 8 ORANGE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT           not used 9 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) --- whatever comes with the viper 10 BLUE* FACTORY HORN INPUT    not used 11 WHITE/BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT not used 12 VIOLET/WHITE** TACHOMETER INPUT --- to white wire (pin49) @ PCM or INT-SL Orange/Black 13 BLACK/WHITE*** (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY /PARKING BRAKE INPUT      to Chassis ground ( auto trans only ) 14 GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT            not used 15 GREEN** (-) DOOR INPUT    not used ( manual trans only ) 16 EMPTY ------------------------------------ 17 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT           not used 18 VIOLET** (+) DOOR INPUT             not used 19 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT             not used 20 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT --- to white wire @ brake switch harness 21 VIOLET/YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT        not used 22 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT            not used 23 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT --- to 30/40 Amp SPDT relay pin 85 Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant fused at 25 Amps Pin 30 to brown acc2 wire. There will be some Viper programming changes and the Tach Learn.Soldering is fun!

Thanks kreg357. I was quite a bit off. I did mean the Fortin INT-SL+ I did not know there was a non + version. Thanks for the heads up. The pictorial you linked i did read that over & over, but it did not go in depth of what wires to connect. Just where to connect to in the vehicle. Of course I could be blind. If I missed it, I apologize. What about the dome light wire, Is that just not used? Will I have dome light supervision through the OBD2 data wire? Also is pin 24 FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT not used either? I have yet to purchase anything, as I want to make sure I buy the all the right parts, know how to hook them up, and make sure they can function like I want them.

The Fortin INT-SL+ is a newer version that handles a few more vehicles. The original INT-SL will work fine and might be slightly less expensive if you can find one ( New Old Stock ). The Pictorial was kept somewhat generic on the aftermarket system used. There are many choices and options available. It was primarily meant to show the vehicle wires and not too much specific on the R/S system or bypass and their needed connections. As for the Domelight Supervision output wire, you should test to see if an Unlock from the Viper will have the same affect on the interior lights as an Unlock from the factory remote. If it's the same then this wire is not needed. If not the same ( no interior lights come on with Viper Unlock command ) then you can connect this wire ( via relay ) to : Dome Light    GRAY/BLACK (+)     DRIVER "B" POST or DOOR TRIGGER    GRAY/BLACK (+)    @ UNDER DASH LIGHT You can not make a direct connection, you must use a relay to convert the Vipers (-) output to the (+) output the vehicle needs. Here is the wiring : Relay Pin 85 to Viper Pin 4 BLACK/YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V through 10 Amp fuse Relay Pin 30 to GRAY/BLACK (+)    @ UNDER DASH LIGHT Relay Pin 87a not used Sorry, my cut and paste did not include this wire : 24 GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT For your application, it is not used. According to the INT-SL chart, the bypass module handles this for you via the Lock command. Soldering is fun!

Understood on the whole pictorial kept generic thing. makes sense now. good idea. I'm also not dead set on the bypass mentioned, I'm open to suggestions to a better one that fits my wants & needs. If the INT-SL+ will fill those then I'm sold.

• Reliable
• compatible with a 2 ways systems. (if that's is even a factor)
• Able to turn of rear defroster via automatic or manual. preferably both
• Have progressive locks [I do like that feature]

I'm also considering running a designated constant power wire (10awg or 12awg) from the main fuse box(no fuse taps) that way i can use an inline fuse w/out excess clutter & neater in the searing column. Anyone opposed to this idea? I'll probably order everything in the coming week. Is there any needed/ recommended items I should get? So far on the list I have: Bypass, 4806V, 30/40 spst relays w/ harnesses, inline blade fuses, self amalgamating tape. any diodes?

I almost forgot to ask. Is a vehicle easier to steal with a remote start installed? what about when it's started via remote?

A bypass module will make this install a whole lot easier by handling many functions with just one connection to the vehicle. Your main restriction on the bypass module is the "comes from the factory with firmware pre-loaded" requirement. Professional installers use newer style bypass modules that are a generic bypass module loaded with a specific firmware to match the vehicle. This also allows for bypass module options control. All that being said, I have found the Fortin INT-SL and INT-SL+ a very solid, reliable bypass module that performs well in the Trailblazer. The INT-SL will take care of all or your stated needs with the possible exception of Progressive Door Unlock. I can't remember if it does this function. It might but I'm not positive. Fortin made a version of the INT-SL+ for Directed Electronic Corp. It was called the DLPKGM. They are still available on EBay. The price is about the same. The only difference is that you could use the D2D harness and go D2D between the Viper and the bypass module. I would still go W2W and make all the interconnections hardwired as listed above. The two +12V constant power wires shown in the Pictorial will handle the Viper and bypass module needs but aren't mandatory. Running a direct power wire to the battery is always acceptable, if done correctly.   Just remember that the wire gauge is determined by the current load & run length and fuse the wire within 12 inches of the battery with a weather protected fuse holder. If you are going full-out with this install, adding a 1N4004 or 1N4007 diode to the external relay(s) coil is a good idea. It will protect the Vipers (-) 200mA outputs from any relay coil collapse pulses.   For more info on relay quenching diodes, check out this article on relays : http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm Rather than self amalgamating tape, you might pick up a roll of Tesa 51618 Tape. If you haven't tried it yet, you might be pleasantly surprised. It is easier to work with, looks very factory and can be removed without all that nasty, sticky residue left behind. Just be careful where you purchase it. There are some Chinese knock-offs out there that are crappy. The ones coming from Europe/Germany are usually the official product. It is used extensively in European vehicles. As far as vehicle security with a remote starter system, it is about the same. All of the vehicle safety / security systems are still functional with the aftermarket system installed. Passlock2 is still there, as is the factory alarm system. If you install the system neatly, using Tesa Tape on the new harness runs and secure the Viper and bypass module discretely under the dash, a very knowledgeable car thief will still need a good amount of time to "hot wire" the vehicle. A thief can't just smash a window, jump in a remote started vehicle and drive away. Stepping on the brake to shift out of Park will shut down the engine. The shifter is still locked in Park without the key in the ignition and the steering wheel is also locked in place without the key. Of course, just about any vehicle can be stolen by a highly knowledgeable car thief with enough time and the right tools.Soldering is fun!

That's good to hear about the SL+ being reliable. I'll look in to the tesa tape. I wonder if they have it on Amazon. My original plan was to not use standard electrical tape due to it leave nasty residue in case I have to uninstall or change anything. As far as bypasses go, I do wonder if I might be better served with either the idatalink ADS-ALCA or the fortin all. Fortin mentions that the SL+ does not have key takeover. Does that mean that the the truck will shut off when the door is opened? Or do I have the wrong idea of what key takeover is? I guess losing progressive unlock won't be such a bad thing considering what I gain.

I have purchased Tesa tape from Amazon before. It was the good stuff from Europe somewhere. Some of the newer bypass modules will do everything the INT-SL does, including the Parking lights. The issue will be getting the bypass module flashed with the correct firmware. It requires a special USB cable and authorized access to the manufacturers WEB site. More trouble and costly than it's worth. The INT-SL+ does do key take over. I'm not sure why that is not shown on their chart.   The INT-SL can do it too. If the aftermarket system doesn't do progressive unlock, the factory FOB still works during run time and you could use them instead.Soldering is fun!