Remote Start Wiring, 2008 Toyota Prius

Hello I need a little input from you all please. I am wiring up a viper 4115 into my 08 prius. I have done a lot of research and know a majority of the complications that come with putting a remote start on this car but I am attempting it. The snag I ran up at this point though is trying to figure out 1 wire coming off of the viper unit to the IDSL KO bypass unit. In the pics you can see the highlighted one with the yellow arrow pointing to it calls for an accessory +. I can not find an accessory + coming off of this unit (wiring diagram also attached). Can you all point me in the right direction on making this happen please. Thanks in advance, Dale

A few things to point out... The Viper 4115 uses DBI D2D communications at the 4 Pin Data port. You should flash the ADS-TB module with the DBI-TB-TL flavor of firmware and follow Install Guide #77711, Type 4. If you have the older Solo Series ADS-TBSL-KO bypass module, then it will not go D2D with the Viper 4115 and you must install using the W2W method. The ACC(+) wire you need is the thick Orange wire at the 6 Pin Plug.Soldering is fun!

Great and yes it is the older one do I will use the heavy gauge wire for that connection. Thank you for the reply and I'm sure I'll have more questions.

Yes, use the thick Orange ACC wire at the Viper 4115. In W2W mode all of the dashed black lines have to be connected as shown. The diodes are 1N4001's. You can also use similar diodes like the 1N4007, etc. Just be sure to get the band going the correct way.Soldering is fun!

I am still struggling with this thing. I got everything hooked up this weekend, and I have power and the LED light working on the Idatalink, but the 4115 remote box seems to be doing nothing. I hear no clicking, and the LED light never illuminates in any fashion. Here is a drawing of the connections I made. Can you all look at it and tell me what I have hooked up wrong or what else I need to hook up, please?

The iDatalink install guide is a bit generic due to the fact that it can be connected to many different brands and models of R/S systems. Foillow thw install guide and here are the connections the Viper 4115 needs... 4115 Primary Harness, 9-pin connector 1 LIGHT GREEN BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT..............N.U. 2 GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM REARM OUTPUT............................N.U. 3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM).....................................................................N.U. 4 WHITE/BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT............................................................................N.U. 5 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN LOCKED/ANTI-GRIND OUTPUT ...............N.U. 6 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN OUTPUT................................................................................Optional ORANGE (-)   @ STEERING COLUMN 7 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT ..................................................Optional PINK (-)   @ DKP, 22 PIN CONN., PIN 17 8 BLACK GROUND INPUT...................................................................................................Chassis Ground 9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT    ...........................................................................BROWN   @ FUSE BOX, TOP LEFT CONN., PIN 10 * * Set Jumper to + Remote Start harness, 5-pin connector 1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT.............................................Chassis Ground 2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT.........................................................................as per iDatalink diagram (Orange wire) 3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT......................................................................as per iDatalink diagram 4 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH SHUTDOWN INPUT....................................................TO Viper Kit Hood Pin 5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT...................to bypass module Blue/White Heavy Gauge Relay, 6-pin connector 1 PINK OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT......................................................as per iDatalink diagram     2 PURPLE OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT..................................................................N.U. 3 ORANGE OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT...........................................................as per iDatalink diagram 4 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT.................................................................to suitable vehicle +12V constant source 5 PINK/WHITE OUTPUT TO SECOND IGNITION/ACCESSORY CIRCUIT..................N.U. 6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT..................................................................to suitable vehicle +12V constant source      Satellite harness - 4-pin connector 1 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT...............................................................N.U.        2 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT...............................................N.U. 3 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT.......................................................N.U. 4 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION OUTPUT...............................................................N.U. Door Lock, 3-pin connector 1 LIGHT BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT ..............................................................as per iDatalink diagram        2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT .............................................................................BLUE (-)   @ DKP, BLUE CONN., PIN 14            Soldering is fun!

Awesome I'll give that a try thank you

Ok I am getting closer. I made the wiring changes according to what you sent. Now here is what happens. I click the remote and the relays click etc.... nothing powers on however if the door is open the beeper starts beeping like the key is in the ignition whether it is or not (it is a proximity system) and when the relays click I get 12v power to the purple wire on the heavy gauge harness which is not used. The blue and yellow push wire (going to the push-to-start button) stays at a constant .015 volts. So something still is not hooked up right apparently. I contacted DEI before I came on here trying to figure this out and they said the GWR wire was the blue wire on the 4 pin harness you said was not used (area circled in yellow) so what do I do with that area and wires that are circled yellow because from what you said the wire they are saying hooks to it goes straight to the defogger wire circled in blue. Here is where the tech told me that as well as pics of the areas in question. I also am getting no led lights on the physical boxes from with the Idata link or the 4115v where as before the idata link led was blinking. I am not sure if that is necessary info or even relevant since it is receiving and sending signal of some type. Brian (VOXX International) Dec 6, 2023, 3:07 PM EST Dale, DEI term for ground when running is "Status" wire color is BLUE. Brian Thank You

Greetings, First off, it's nice to hear that VOXX is suppling help to individuals on DEI products. Their info is basically correct and I hate to argue with Tech Support. There are several names used for Ground When Running. The most popular is GWR but DEI used the term (-) Status Output. Other brands used the term 3rd Ignition, etc. In your application, using a DEI product with an iDatalink SOLO Series bypass module you must run in W2W Mode between the Viper 4115 and the ADS TBSL KO bypass module. The Viper 4115 only uses their DBI protocol on the 4 Pin D2D port. The ADS TBSL KO only uses their iDatalink protocol on the 4 Pin Data port. So, to control the ADS TBSL KO, the Data style control can't be used and you must wire and run in W2W mode. This is shown in the ADS TBSL KO Install guide as making all the solid and dashed wire line connections. When installing in the W2W Mode a few things must be done. First, as noted by VOXX Tech Support, the 4115 (-) Status Output signal is used as the GWR signal in the ADS TBSL KO diagram. Typically, most installers will use the Dark Blue wire at Pin 1 of the 4 Pin Satellite Harness. I suggested the use of the Blue/White wire at Pin 5 of the Remote Start harness. I did this because the Remote Start Harness had other wires being used and the Satellite Harness had no other wires needed. Rather than plug in another harness for just one wire, why not keep it simple and use the Blue/White wire for GWR. Please note that the Blue/White wire has two functions*. The Factory Default setting is (-) Status Output (GWR). The optional setting is for Defrost control. This is shown in the 4115 programming, Menu 2, Feature 8. I have used the Blue/White wire for GWR bypass module control many times when I don't need it for Defrost control and it always works. As long as the 4115 Menu 2, Feature 8 setting is still at the Factory Default setting of (-) Status Output ( OPT 1), my suggestion will work. * Here is a description of these two wires from an older DEI Install Guide : BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2nd Status/defroster output This wire supplies a 200mA output as soon as the module begins the remote start process. This BLUE/WHITE wire can also be used to activate the defogger trigger (latched/pulsed) 10-seconds after the remote start engages. (See the Feature Descriptions, Menu#2, feature 8 for details about programming this output.) BLUE (-) 200mA status output This wire supplies an output as soon as the module begins the remote start process. It can be used to activate a bypass module or power the key sense wire in most vehicles to disarm the factory alarm without unlocking. It's your choice if you wish to add the 4 Pin Satellite Harness and use that Dark Blue GWR signal or use the Blue/White GWR wire. The other important item that must be done is setting the ADS TBSL KO to Standard Mode. This tells the bypass module that it is not using the 4 Pin port for Data style communication and that its Blue/White wire will have only the GWR signal on it. I can't obtain the older version guide #415 that you are using but at the end of that Toyota wiring section, the install guide has a Programming Section. Typically at the top of the Programming Section are Installation Mode Selection setting. You must tell the ADS TBSL KO that it is to run in Standard Mode ( 2 Blinks ) and lock it down prior to doing the Vehicle Programming steps. In the later guide I found for the ADS TBSL KO, you use the specific Type 4 vehicle programming after setting the Install Mode to Standard. At this point, I would recommend doing a Factory Reset on the bypass module. This is shown at the end of the Install Guide. Please note that at Step 5, after the Red LED goes out, it will start doing a 1 Blink pattern for DATA Mode. If you press the button once the LED will start doing a 2 Blink pattern for Standard Mode. At this point you can press and hold the button to lock in Standard Mode. Then continue to Type 4 vehicle programming. This is a rather involved install with relays, plenty of diodes and a resistor. There are many areas for possible problems. I would also verify that all diodes are oriented correctly. As for the Vipers Purple Starter output wire, here is a note added to the later Type 4 install guide : WARNING DO NOT CONNECT ANY OTHER ACCESSORY, IGNITION OR START WIRE FROM THE REMOTE STARTER TO THE VEHICLE. THE INTERFACE MODULE IS HANDLING THE REQUIRED VEHICLE POWER AND START SEQUENCE FROM THE PUSH TO START BUTTON CIRCUIT. Good luck, KregSoldering is fun!

I finally got it!!!! Remote start is working flawless every time. I had one of the wires landed on the wrong relay this whole time. Great job I know lol. Only thing I have left to figure out is why my keyless entry isn't working when the remote start is active. I have to use the physical key to unlock the door and take the car over. I am sure it is something else dumb I have done but hey it is way farther than where I was to begin with. Kreg357 I can't say thank you enough for all your help and detailed responses. People like you are what makes forums like this such a good resource for people who don't do this type stuff all the time. Again thank you my friend.