Questions about the 554T

Thanks for answering two of my questions

But, if my car has an OEM keyless entry, shouldn't there already be relays to unlock/lock the doors?  Can I use these relays if they exist?  So, let me get this straight... I need 4 ore relays (1 for trunk, 1 for unlock, and 1 for lock, and 1 for VATS system) whhheeeewww, that's a lot.

Also, you mentioned the colors of the wires.  My wire diagram says light blue for lock, and black (passenger master switch) for unlock.  You sound knowledgeable, and I got this diagram off this website (no guarantees), so does this sound right to you?

I appreciate the help.  Anyone else can help?

Okay ,

Thanks for everyone's help here.  But, I still have one small problem....the door-lock thing.  I finally figured out every other problem, and it is working perfectly (so far).

I talked to the person I bought this alarm from and they told me that if I had the Factory Keyless Entry, it would be easier to do the door lock/unlock.  I am still awaiting an answer from a question I had for them, so I'm trying this forum.

They told me that if I had a Keyless Entry system, I need  to find the org/blk and RED / blk wires (which control the door lock/unlock).  I found them, but in the email they sent me, it didn't mention if I still have to use optional relays to control the door locks from this location (at the Keyless Entry Computer Box).  All of the diagrams I have seen to do the 5-wire reverse polarity system, it shows that the wires should be cut at the switch (wire colors are lt. blue/drk blue) and use 2 relays (one for lock, other for unlock) to control the lock/unlock feature.

I guess my question is if I need to use relays if I use the org/blk or RED / blk wires from the Keyless Entry Box.  If you technicians are confused on this wire configuration, I'll include in this message what was sent to me. 

Thanks for the help.

A5: IF YOU HAVE KEYLESS ENTRY IT WILL BE EASIER, IF NOT YOU MUST DO A  5-WIRE DOOR LOCK INSTALLATION THAT WILL REQUIRE TO MORE RELAYS AND  AKING APART THE PASSENGERS DOOR AND/OR DOOR BOOT.  THIS IS THE DIRECTIONS FROM THE DATA SHEET I HAVE PASTED BELOW ---> *1 Non-keyless versions:  Use light blue for lock and dark blue for unlock.  Both wires are located in either door harness. The passenger switch is the master switch.

|       POWER LOCK|*1                  |5wi|*1                         

 *1

Thanks for the help SoundImage, but I was trying to stay away from digging into the door jams (a mess!!)

For anyone else out there, that might have had this problem, I figured it out.... I took my door lock relay module, and another wire diagram told me to use gray (lock) and tan (unlock) for my car at the keyless entry point.  I tried the RED / blk and org/blk wires, and it didn't work.  I hooked up the door lock module as if the Keyless Entry Module was the switch, and the other wire was towards the motor.  There were two tan wires (unlock for each door) even though the wire sheets said the passenger side was the master, that didn't work.  I had to hook together both tan wires and the hook them up to the door lock relay module just as I did the lock connections.  This seemed to work.  I just hope that my +12V supply will do okay (hooked with the rest of alarm components (relays) requiring a +12V supply. 

Another question for all of you technicians out there.  What is the purpose of adding a fuse 12 inches away from my battery source???  Could a jolt of electricity possibly happen, and ruin all of my relays that I just installed?  Anyone ever had any problems with not installing a fuse between the battery, and their constant +12V connection?  Just wondering, because I didn't bother with the fuse, and I don't want it to eat all of my relays (I HAVE SPENT OVER 20 HOURS INSTALLING THIS HORNET 554T BY MYSELF)  Of course, I soldered and taped every little connection possible.  Not to mention all of the little mistakes that set me back (like taking the door apart just before I realized to try the gray/tan wires that the other wire diagram instructed me to use). 

Another question.  The relays required a different size fuse (from +12V to battery) than say the door lock relay module.  Should I just use the lowest fuse that is required, if I do decide to do the fuse thing?

Again, thanks for all of your guys help.  By reading this forum and installing the Hornet 554T by myself, I realized that, that's why they say to have it professionally installed!!!  (Back-breaking work there!!!)

the idea of a fuse close to your battery source is protection against shorts.  if you don't have a fuse and the wire shorts out, suprise, electrice fire!  unprotected/unfused wires will heat up like your electric stovetop element except much faster.  stay protected!

2nd question:  if your relays are just sending small pulses and not powering actuators or motors, a small 5 or 10 amp fuse is fine.  putting in a larger fuse is not goint to hurt anything.