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Seeking Install Advice for 03 Silverado


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mobilevt 
Copper - Posts: 73
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 29, 2003
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: August 21, 2004 at 12:09 AM / IP Logged  

I have a 03 1500HD Silverado LS Crew Cab with Factory DVD system.  The only thing it does not have is the memory & heated seats.  I bought a 791VX Viper Remote Start and I looked extensively for installation information and wanted to check with you folks for the correct modules & accessories.

What additional modules should I get to utilize all functions offered by the 791VX?  Should I get the TR-7 and the 555G?  What about the GMDL-BP?  Or will the GM-D17 do everything including window roll up, lock & unlock and bypass?

I am also aquiring the Taplock, a 556T (time / temp controller) and 2 smart window roll-down modules from asianwolf.com because I like the vent feature of the roll-down module however, I would take any suggestions, including disregarding the vent feature if you think that's the way to go.

I also plan to install a secondary battery system to provide auxillary power with the ignition off.  I plan to transfer power for the radio & dvd on a Copeland Power Tamer set for 3 hrs.  The Power Tamer provides power upon vehicle start-up and stays powered up to a set time which in this case, 3 hrs.  What is the best & safe way in transfering power?  Do I move the power for both the radio & DVD to the secondary battery from the fuse block and put the ignition from the two components on the timer?

Many thanks, Sean

Emergency Vehicle Technician
Got Freedom? Thank a vet!
tbirdman74 
Copper - Posts: 164
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 22, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 21, 2004 at 8:12 AM / IP Logged  
First off, congrats on the purchase of an excellent alarm.  The 791xv is probably the best alarm I have ever had the actual pleasure of installing.  It has every extra goody known to man, and still keeps with DEI's installer friendly wiring setup.  Next, not sure, but sounds like you are going module crazy, and there will be redundency in your setup.  Start with the immobilizer bypass module.  555g, or the one from periheral will either work fine, though have never used peripherals new databus units.  If it works like they say, you will have your windows covered as far as the fronts go.  If you have to add a window module, I strongly urge you to not buy "inexpensive" modules off of the internet.  It invaritably rings true that you get what you pay for.Every cheapo that has ever came through the bay has had a common failure.  The circuit boards have extremely thin traces and cannot withstand the high current of the window motors, hence burned traces.  Which can be fixed, but theres no sense in polishing a turd now is there?  You can get DEI's 530t for about $30.00 (I think) from Micro Electronics or any other number of reputable electronics distributors.  It will roll up and down 2 windows, up with arm, and the vent  or full roll down features, along with one touch operation from door switches.  And they have user programmable (dip switches) settings depending on how hard the windows are to roll up and down.  And if still too difficult, they can be easily modified for an extra little juice for the stubborn windows.  And it can be set to respond to either (+) or (-) inputs on the switch wires depending on vehicle application.  The taplock seems like a novel idea, but c'mon, why spend twenty bucks so you can tap mary had a little lamb on your windshield, in the dark, in the rain?  Spend a buck-fifty on a waterproof momentary pushbutton switch, and thirty cents on speaker wire and hook the switch into your unlock wire from alarm.  Then hook other side to positive 12v or ground depending on vehicle, and hide switch on exterior of vehicle.  Viola, emergency unlock, and if you have more time than sense like I do somedays, you can get inventive and build the switch into an inline fuse holder(the long round screw together kind) and put it under the rear bumper by the rest of the trailer plug wiring, and nobody will ever be the wiser.  Trust me this is a godsend if you use passive arming.  As for the rest with the power timer, not sure what the use, I guess I am not clear on what you are trying to do with having aux power for three hours?  A little more inflo and maybe I can help.  But as for the alarm, Rule No. ! applies...KISS   Keep It Simple Stupid.  This comes from too many times opening a dash to see a nightmare rat nest that I have to unf*** because some guy sold somebody one of everything.  Sorry about it being so long, just would hate to see you unhappy with such a terrific alarm.  May the alarm gods be with you.
If it don't fit, Force it.
If it breaks, You needed a new one anyway!
mobilevt 
Copper - Posts: 73
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 29, 2003
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: August 21, 2004 at 12:25 PM / IP Logged  

tbirdman74,

Thanks for the input!!!  I guess I can get creative with using a hidden switch.  Maybe I can take one of the spare 8 sec timers to operate another switch to further secure my car.  Allow me to introduce myself.  I work on emergency vehicles for a living, 15 years in the running.  I have taken so much equipments and installed them while keeping the wiring mess to a minimum & clean so in this case, it won't be too much for me! 

I have done security locks for shotguns in the trunk where the trunk release pops the trunk, at the same time, an 8 sec timer provided power to a second button in the trunk to operate the lock.  Pass 8 sec and the button's not good.  I'm gonna take your advice and do the external switch setup.  Some ambulances even have that unlock button mounted in the grill!

As for the Power Tamer, I have 100's of these,... these power tamers, rated at 30 amps, can be programmed between 15 min to 31 hours.  They are for keeping emergency equipment on after the ignition is turned off.  They work either by ignition sense or voltage sense.

Hope that helps.

Sean

Emergency Vehicle Technician
Got Freedom? Thank a vet!
tbirdman74 
Copper - Posts: 164
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 22, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 21, 2004 at 2:21 PM / IP Logged  
I see, I guess I just cant get why you want the power to stay on on the video system for three hours after you shut the key off.  Could see once in a while, but all the time, that might be a little hard on the video equipment, but good luck anyways.  Tell me again, when you said 8-second timer, were you referring to the TR7 or another module?  thanks
If it don't fit, Force it.
If it breaks, You needed a new one anyway!
mobilevt 
Copper - Posts: 73
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 29, 2003
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: August 21, 2004 at 5:18 PM / IP Logged  
The 8 sec timer is called the shotgun timer for police vehicles. I can see that the TR-7 does that. Just seeing all those smart datalink modules gives me a little headache as to which's the best. I'm gonna look into the 530T modules. Can two modules be connected to the datalink wire? Wish one module does it all!
Sean
Emergency Vehicle Technician
Got Freedom? Thank a vet!

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