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Problem with the ignition switch, 2000 Celica GT


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gsaav 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: October 09, 2004
Posted: October 13, 2004 at 11:02 AM / IP Logged  
Problem with the ignition switch - URGENT!!
Hi all,
First of all, All my congrats to the website administrators and all members... you make this site rock!!
Now, here's the problem that I am facing and the reason of my post: I was installing a remote car starter during the weekend on my Celica 2000 GT, and managed to finish the installation without any issues, nevertheless, when I was putting the cables together in order to finish and close the install, I realized that the power of the accessories (the radio, etc) and the light bulbs on the gauge cluster where switching on and off very fast as I moved the cables - Obviously a sign of a poor connection made while setting up the remote starter.
I stopped moving the cables, pulled out the key, checked the area and found out that even though I could still turn on the car with the key, but now the accessories and all the panel lights (engine, etc) in the cluster where not coming on, except for the abs light. I continued trying to troubleshoot for the cause and found out that the 2 power cables (the white and BLACK/ red ones) still had 12 volts on them and that the fuses in the passenger side and under the hood were ok.
This pretty much made me think that the problem is within the ignition switch, as power is coming in. I continued to verify the voltage output based on the different key positions (ACC - ON - RUN) and realized that the cable providing power to the Accessories (Gray cable in the switch) didn't have any power when the key was in the ACC and ON positions. Ignition and Startup cables seem to be working ok.
At this point I am quite discouraged and ran out of troubleshooting ideas. Does anyone have a possible cause or troubleshooting idea??
Thanks in advance to all,
GS.
Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: October 13, 2004 at 12:48 PM / IP Logged  
First off, disconnect the RS from the ignition system and use a DMM to test all fuses in the car & the engine bay, DO NOT resort to using your eyes as verification of a burned or broken fuse because sometimes a fuse doesn't completely blow and leave carbon marks on the casing of the fuse. Post your results
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
jimmeezgolfvr6 
Silver - Posts: 258
Silver spacespace
Joined: March 10, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: October 13, 2004 at 3:38 PM / IP Logged  
on this car, the toyota echo, and some other vehicles, if you're installing a remote start the ignition wire (BLACK/ orange) must be opened up with a relay. have a look at this diagram:
diagram from bulldogsecurity.com
you didn't mention if you did that or not in your post, so i thought i'd just throw that in there. if you already have, then i'd suggest you do as jeff from velocity motors said....check every fuse with a DMM. also, if it is indeed the acc line fuse that's blown, check the fusible links under the hood. they should be in the same fuse panel as the fuses, but toyota has a tendency to have a separate fuse panel for fusible links sometimes. good luck!
all problems can be resolved with a hammer
gsaav 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: October 09, 2004
Posted: October 13, 2004 at 11:27 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the replies - I appreciate the support.
At this point I have removed every cable that I had installed before (including the starter kill relay) and the system is back to its original...
I have re-tested all fuses both inside the cabin and under the hood with a DMM as requested.
I also tried to feed the ACC (gray) cable that comes out of the ignition switch with constant (15A controlled) power while keeping the key in the ACC position, hoping that the radio and other accesories would turn on. I didn't succeed.
I finally turned on the car and noticed that, besides of the accesories, everything in the gauge cluster:
the different LEDs -gas low,parking break, engine check, etc- the LCD and the engine tach gauge needle are not working.
I'm still puzzled about this issue. Any ideas??
riceman 
Copper - Posts: 109
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 14, 2004
Posted: October 14, 2004 at 9:17 PM / IP Logged  

did you do what jimmeezgolfvr6 said to do you have to isolate ignition 1 using a relay  87constant  86 ignition 1 output from rs 85 ground 30 to ignition 1 of car. hopefully that help post your results.


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