00 Dakota, alarm/remote start

Ok, I am really uncomfortable now with my alarm hook up and want to get out to my truck to unhook the power to it for now.

I bought a Code Alarm Chapman F65 from autoalarmpro.com. They send you and alarm pre-wired and pre-programmed for your vehicle, with a vehicle specific wiring guide, all the connectors, and tech-support on the phone. Sounds great, but after not being able to locate or correctly verify some of the wires, and now the alarm not working properly, I looked up my vehicle wiring diagram on here, and they don't match! Hopefully I havn't already fried this thing. And I've tried calling them several times the last 2 days and nobody picks up!

Anyways, here is what is happening. Right now, the alarm appears to function properly accept for 2 things. First, the doors do lock when arming the truck, but do not unlock when disarming. This first problem may be due, however, to the fact that upon looking for this wire, I had my multi-meter on the wrong setting and fried the drivers side lock switch (the passenger switch works just fine still, and the driver's side one smelt crappy, so I assume it was just the switch).

Second, the remote start appeared to work fine the first couple times I tried to use it after completing the install yesterday morning. Later I figured I should test the pin switch that says the hood is open, so I opened the hood and tried to remote start it, all good. No start, warning chirps. So i closed the hood, now I doubt this hood pin switch has anything to do with the following problem, but it's after that I first noticed. Now every time I do remote start, if the alarm was initially disabled, it starts for about 1-2 seconds then shuts off, or if it was initially armed, it starts and runs for several seconds, then the alarm goes off and the vehicle shuts off.

So, as I said before, my biggest concern at this point is incorrect wiring as the colors autoalarmpro gave me and what I got here don't match up. To make it easy for myself and anyone else to help me, I made a table with all the information on what was given here and by them, the alarm guide, and where I hooked wires up:

http://www.worldwidewes.com/alarm.html

Also, here is the page that I got the colors from on this site, which are in that table: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=2000&make=Dodge&model=Dakota&ID=17605&type=Alarm

Can someone who really knows verify these wires? Thanks!

"Anyways, here is what is happening. Right now, the alarm appears to function properly accept for 2 things. First, the doors do lock when arming the truck, but do not unlock when disarming. This first problem may be due, however, to the fact that upon looking for this wire, I had my multi-meter on the wrong setting and fried the drivers side lock switch (the passenger switch works just fine still, and the driver's side one smelt crappy, so I assume it was just the switch)." The scent that you are smelling is the smell of burnt wire. The power door lock on your vechile is positive. You need to add relays to convert the negative polarity of the alarm unit to positive. If you have the vehicles with keyless entry, you have to 5 wire the unlock wire.    Check it against you alarm unit installation manual for the correct polarity on the door locks. "Second, the remote start appeared to work fine the first couple times I tried to use it after completing the install yesterday morning. Later I figured I should test the pin switch that says the hood is open, so I opened the hood and tried to remote start it, all good. No start, warning chirps. So i closed the hood, now I doubt this hood pin switch has anything to do with the following problem, but it's after that I first noticed. Now every time I do remote start, if the alarm was initially disabled, it starts for about 1-2 seconds then shuts off, or if it was initially armed, it starts and runs for several seconds, then the alarm goes off and the vehicle shuts off." Use the TACH wire, connect it directly to the coil it works way better for remote start. Don't used "Blind Crank Timing". When everything is complete you have to program the alarm/remote start unit to learned the tach signal before you can do the remote start. Other wise it will shut off after a few seconds as you have indictated. "So, as I said before, my biggest concern at this point is incorrect wiring as the colors autoalarmpro gave me and what I got here don't match up. To make it easy for myself and anyone else to help me, I made a table with all the information on what was given here and by them, the alarm guide, and where I hooked wires up:" My buddy FLUKE has NEVER been wrong when it comes to wiring. If you don't have a buddy as trust worthy as mind. Get yourself a DIGITAL MULITIMETER AND SAVE THE GUESS WORK FOR YOUR NEXT LOTTERY TICKET PURCHASE. I can not verified the wires for you. However, you can test the wires out yourself. If you don't know how to test the wires. ASK! A lot of people here will be more that happy to assist you in this department. I have provided you with a wiring diagram that the alarm/remote starter industry uses. It will be good enough to get you starter. Post your results and ask questions if you get stuck.    DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - DODGE / DAKOTA PICKUP / 2000 / Remote Start 12volts red or pink/black    +   ignition harness Starter blue / YELLOW    +   ignition harness Second Starter           Ignition dark blue    +   ignition harness Second Ignition BLACK/ orange    +   ignition harness Third Ignition GREEN/ red    +   ignition harness Accessory BLACK/ white    +   ignition harness Second Accessory           Keysense           Power Lock org/pur or grn/blk    +   drivers kick panel Power Unlock pink/purple    +   drivers kick panel Notes: Vehicles with keyless entry, have to 5 wire the unlock wire. Lock Motor           Unlock Motor           Parking Lights+ BLACK / YELLOW      behind fuse box Parking Lights-           Hazards           Turn Signal(L)           Turn Signal(R)           Reverse Light           Door Trigger yellow    -   behind fuse box Dome Supervision           Trunk/Hatch Pin           Hood Pin           Trunk/Hatch Release           Power Sliding Door           Factory Alarm Arm lt. GREEN/ orange   -   drivers door harness Notes: Must use relays and set up for (-) negative trigger. Place a 600 ohm resistor to the lt. GREEN/ orange for arm, and a 1300 ohm resistor on the same wire for disarm. This wire will also lock the doors, and it will unlock with a double pulse. Factory Alarm Disarm same wire        Disarm No Unlock           Tachometer blk/gry or gry/blk      coil pass. sid of eng. Wait to start           Brake Wire WHITE/ tan    +   at brake switch Parking Brake           Horn Trigger BLACK/ red    -   steering column Memory Seat 1           Memory Seat 2           Memory Seat 3           Interface Module: Category: Immobilizer Bypass Required: No Type: N/A Part #: N/A Notes:        This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter. Directed electronics, Inc. assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information. Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

wesblake wrote: Thanks pencil. That wire color list shows yet another combination. It seems the wires that are really in question are the BLACK/ Orange and BLACK/ White wires which are either accessory or ignition depending on which guide. I'll check them against the guide you put up and see if that works. So....is the verification correct at least (in the table I put up, under "Tech Notes") for ignition 2 and accessory 2?

Test your wires using the fomula below should clarified things out for you. IGNITION This wire will test with the key switch in the run AND start position, but never in the accessory position. SECOND IGNITION Second ignition will test one of two ways. It will test with the key switch in run position only, or will test just like main ignition. Like main ignition, it will never show power in the accessory position. If the second ignition shows power only in the run position then the accessory output of a remote start device may be used to power the wire. ACCESSORY This wire will test with the key switch in the accessory and run position, but never in the start position. Some cars do not have an accessory wire. SECOND ACCESSORY Test in the same fashion as the main accessory wire.         Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.