2001 Suburban remote start issues

I'm installing an Autopage rs860 on a 2001 suburban and Ihave several questions. 1.Do I have to hook up the keysense wire? Will the truck still start without sensing a key in the ign? 2.Can I get the tach wire behind the cluster? Is it a white wire here? 3.I found a gray/black wire in the blue plug of the BCM. This wire is grounded when the interior lights are on from either the dash switch or the factory alarm. When the factory alarm is armed, this wire no longer sees a ground. Can I use this wire for domelight supervision? 4. I want to add a magnetic switch to the rear window on the back hatch. Can I just tie it in with the rear hatch trigger wire, or should I wire it to the pinswitch input on the alarm. I plan on diode isolating the 4 doors and the hatch and connecting them to the door trigger input, could I tie in the magnetic switch also?

1. The keysense wire doesn't need to be hooked up. 2. Yes, the white wire in the cluster plug is the tach wire. 3. Use a door pin wire for domelight supervision. 4. If your alarm has a dedicated trunk pin wire use it. You can also tie it into the door trigger input as long as you diode isolate it.sparky

ok,done with questions 1 & 2,lets talk about 3 & 4 in more detail. The gray/black wire is from the BCM and it triggers the domelight relay under the dash. It turns on all interior lights AND the puddle lamps on the bottoms of the door mirrors. The puddle lamps wont come on with just having a door open(wiring a doorpin). And I'd prefer to have them on with domelight supervision, just as the factory alarm does. So should I just tie into this wire, or diode isolate tie in, or use a relay to break the wire and ground it? As for question #4, I din't explain it right. What I wanna do is connect a magnetic switch on the rear window to the rear hatch trigger wire but right at the rear hatch, to avoid having to run a wire all the way to the dash. Would this be ok? So basically whether the rear hatch is open or if just the glass is open, I'd see "hatch ajar" on the dash. Or should I run a seperate wire up to the dash to connect to the alarm? Also, I'm having trouble finding the green factory disarm wire. I think I have the right wire but it appears to pulse so fast that it doesnt even register on my meter. I tested it upon disarming the factory alarm, with the remote, AND by unlocking the door. I then tried an led test light but it didnt blink, it got kinda dim for not even 1/2 a second. Do I have the right wire?

You should be able to tie the magnetic reed switch into the rear tailgate ajar wire without any issues. The grey/black wire in the light blue plug of the BCM supplies the courtesy lamp relay with ground and should activate the interior lights. The BCM may not like this method and set a trouble code. The BCM prefers a ground on a door pin input to trigger the interior lights. Anything else and it thinks there is a short circuit in the vehicle. The disarm wire is in the BCM's purple plug in cavity B3.sparky

ok, now I'm having another problem. I have the alarm installed now and for some reason upon disarming the factory alarm is getting triggered. I used the tan drivers door wire for domelight supervision. I have the green disarm wire hooked up the the factory disarm output wire on the alarm. The remore start works fine, doesnt trigger the factory alarm. But only upon disarming the alarm system, it will trigger the factory alarm. I also noticed that if I've used the remote start while the alarm was armed then it wont trigger the factory alarm upon disarming. But just arming it, let it sit for a few hours not messing with it, disarm it and it will set off the factory alarm. How can I solve this? Can I split the door unlock output with diodes and trigger the disarm wire again? If that would solve it, how would I do it with the lock wires set up for positive pulse?

Also, the factory security re-arm wire is either for horn honk or factory rearm. You program the alarm to do which one you want. But I need BOTH of these outputs. How can I create another? which would be easier, creating a horn flashing circuit, or a pulse generator that will give out one single pulse when the remote start shuts down? I want the horn to honk, AND I need a pulse to disable the RAP when disengaging the remote start.

First confirm with the use of a meter that your alarm is putting out a negative pulse on your disarm wire before remote starting and before unlocking. The factory alarm will also disarm if the vehicle is started, therefore your disarm circuit may not be working or only works when remote started. If your disarm circuit is working, try disconnecting the dome supervision circuit to see if that is the problem. You can split the unlock output into two wires and diode isolate them. Use one to trigger a relay to send a positive pulse to the unlock wire in the truck and one to send a negative pulse to the light green factory disarm wire. You can also diode isolate the lock output and use a relay to trigger the positive door lock wire and pulse the tan driver's door pin wire to arm the factory alarm and shut off RAP. That leaves the other rearm wire in your module to trigger the horn.sparky

Ok I think I got it straight, but only after using a plethora of diodes. You were right about the disarm wire. It was still functioning as a second unlock output. After going through the alarm programming again I reset the function of that wire. I have 3 wires connected to the tan drivers door wire. Door trigger wire, domelight supervison wire, and the factory rearm wire(to disable RAP). But it took me forever to figure out how to get it right with diodes so the 3 could all work together. The domelight supervision wire kept triggering the alarm, and falsing a door open signal. I had to wire a diode inline in the tan wire and then attached the door trgger on the door side of the diode and the domelight supervision and rearm wires on the BCM side of the diode. Then each of those three wires has a diode inline to prevent any feedback. And as for the horn honk, I decided to do away with it because I figured turning off the RAP was more important. But after hooking it all up I found the horn honks after all! What happens is upon locking, the domelight supervision comes on for 10 seconds (sending a pulse to both the lock wire AND the drivers door tan wire at the same time), in turn arming the factory alarm because the factory alarm arms if you lock the door while its open. The autopage alarm also flashes the domelight during an alarm trigger cycle. In doing so, it triggers the factory alarm during a cycle. So basically when the alarm is triggered the siren wails AND the horn honks, just like I originally wanted it to. In the end it all worked out for me. Now I just gotta read the instruction manual to learn how to use all the other features of this "mega alarm". This dam thing has TONS of features that I have yet to figure out how to use. Not to mention I still have 4 empty channel outputs I can wire stuff up to in the future. Who knows, tv's? foglights? windows? I'll decide on all that later...