DirectStart Cs324-T and IPP-ME install

I purchased a DirectStart CS324-T remote starter with an IPP-ME GM Learnable Passlock Interface to install in my 2000 Chevy Silverado, regular cab, with automatic transmission and 4.8L v8. I had installed another brand remote starter a while back in my Chevy Corsica and thought this install would go as smoothly, but no such luck.

The instructions with this unit are rather vague, but I tried my best to come up with the info I need to complete the installation. I am using a wiring chart I found on this website for a 2000 Chevrolet Tahoe, which should be the same as for my Silverado. I have hooked up most of the wires on the CS324-T, but I need some help with verifying the connections and knowing where to connect the rest of the wires and connect the IPP-ME.

Here is how I connected J1, the 6-pin main wiring harness:

J1-Pin 1 - Red wire (+12vdc Main Power Source Input) to Red wire going to ignition switch (constant +12vdc)

J1-Pin 2 - Green wire (+Accessory Output [Heater/A/C]) to Orange wire going to ignition switch (+12vdc when ON, 0v in START position)

J1-Pin 3 - Yellow wire (+12vdc Starter Output) to small gauge Yellow wire going to ignition switch (+12vdc in START position only)

J1-Pin 4 - Black wire (Neg. : Chassis Ground) to metal dashboard frame.

J1-Pin 5 - Blue wire (+ True Ignition Output) to Pink wire going to ignition switch (+12vdc in ON & START positions)

J1-Pin 6 - Red wire (+12vdc Main Power Source Input) to same Red wire that Pin 1 was connected to (constant +12v).

I am less certain about my J2, 14 pin Wire Harness connections:

J2-Pin 1 - White wire (+12vdc Parking Light Output) to Light Blue wire on back of driver's door fuseblock (+12vdc with Parking Lights ON) *****There were actually 2 Light Blue wires on the backside of the Parking Lamps fuse, but when I pulled out the fuse, both were still hot. So I just picked one.

J2-Pin 2 - RED / White wire (Ignition 2, +12vdc, 6 amp maximum) to White wire going to the ignition switch. It is a small gauge wire, so I am not using a relay.

J2-Pin 3 - WHITE/ Violet wire (Negative, External Trigger [Auto/Hand Brake Input(Manual Transmission)] )is not connected to anything as I have an automatic

J2-Pin 4 - Gray wire (Negative, Channel #3 Output [Trunk Release or Other Option] ) is not connected as I don't need a Trunk Release on my truck.

J2-Pin 5 - Blue/White wire (Negative, Disarm Output/Defrost) is not connected to anything, but maybe it should be.

J2-Pin 6 - Brown wire (Starter Kill, 500ma Negative Output) is not connected to anything, but probably should be. I don't know where to find the Starter Interrupt Relay, or is that something I’m supposed to add?

J2-Pin 7 - Orange wire (Re-Arm/Horn, 500ma Negative Output) is not connected to anything. I don't understand what the Re-Arm signal is for.

J2-Pin 8 - WHITE/ Green wire (Ground Output – when remote start is running) is not connected to anything. I think I have a Passlock II factory immobilizer (I'm not sure, I have conflicting information), but I don't understand what this signal is for. Is this supposed to be connected to the IPP-ME?

J2-Pin 9 - Yellow wire (Negative Unlock/Positive Lock) is not connected to anything. I think I should use the opposite pulse provided by the WHITE/ Blue wire of J2-Pin 10.

J2-Pin 10 - Blue/White wire (Negative Lock/Positive Unlock) is connected to the Tan wire for Door 1 in the driver's door fuseblock. 12vdc will unlock the door.

J2-Pin 11 - Blue wire (Horn, 500ma Output) is not connected to anything. If connected to the Horn, when would it sound?

J2-Pin 12 - Green wire (+12vdc Input for Brake Switch) is connected to the Orange wire at the Brake Switch. It is the hot side of the switch.

J2-Pin 13 - BLACK/ White wire (Negative, Tach or Vacuum) is not connected to anything. The Tahoe wiring chart says the Tach signal is on a White wire at the Coil or Injector, but I couldn't find a White wire there.

J2-Pin 14 - Violet wire (Negative, Hood Pinswitch/Door Trigger Input Manual Transmission) is connected to the Hood Pinswitch I installed under the hood. I

Programming Jumper is in the Passlock 2 position.

Green wire (Key Sense Out) is not connected to anything. The Tahoe wiring chart shows a Tan Sense wire, but says Sense Type is Positive.

Purple wire (Input, Starter Wire In) is connected to the Yellow Starter wire at the Ignition Switch.

Black wire (Input, Chassis Ground) is connected to the metal dashboard frame. Or should it be connected to the Black wire at the Ignition Switch?

WHITE/ Tracer wire (Output, Bulb Test Out, Only for Passlock I ) is not connected to anything. I am assuming I have Passlock II.

Yellow wire (Input, Ignition) is connected to the Pink Ignition 1 wire at the Ignition Switch.

Brown wire (Input, Negative Ground Output from remote starter) is connected to the WHITE/ Green wire of J2-Pin 8 of the CS324-T.

White wire (Output, Data) is connected to the Yellow Starter wire at the Ignition Switch. This would be the same as the Purple wire above. Is this right? Do I need to use a diode or something with this configuration?

Pink wire (Output, Second Ignition Output) is not connected to anything as the CS324-T has a Second Ignition wire connected to the White wire at the Ignition Switch and does the same thing.

Red wire (Input, +12vdc Constant Battery) is connected to the Constant 12vdc at the Red wire at the Ignition Switch.

Thank you for any help you can offer me. I was hoping to find the info I need from the place where I purchased the items or their website, but it just isn't there.

Here are the incorrect wires that I found:

J2-Pin 1 - White wire (+12vdc Parking Light Output) to Light Blue wire on back of driver's door fuseblock (+12vdc with Parking Lights ON) *****There were actually 2 Light Blue wires on the backside of the Parking Lamps fuse, but when I pulled out the fuse, both were still hot. So I just picked one.

• This should be on a LIGHT BLUE plug at the ECM and a BROWN wire.

J2-Pin 5 - Blue/White wire (Negative, Disarm Output/Defrost) is not connected to anything, but maybe it should be.

• Only if your truck has OEM alarm option on it

J2-Pin 6 - Brown wire (Starter Kill, 500ma Negative Output) is not connected to anything, but probably should be. I don't know where to find the Starter Interrupt Relay, or is that something I’m supposed to add?

• This is an add on relay . Look at the installation manual for diagram for this circuit

J2-Pin 8 - WHITE/ Green wire (Ground Output – when remote start is running) is not connected to anything. I think I have a Passlock II factory immobilizer (I'm not sure, I have conflicting information), but I don't understand what this signal is for. Is this supposed to be connected to the IPP-ME?

• This is supposed to be connected to the BROWN wire on the IPPME module to activate the module to bypass the Passlock system

J2-Pin 9 - Yellow wire (Negative Unlock/Positive Lock) is not connected to anything. I think I should use the opposite pulse provided by the WHITE/ Blue wire of J2-Pin 10.

J2-Pin 10 - Blue/White wire (Negative Lock/Positive Unlock) is connected to the Tan wire for Door 1 in the driver's door fuseblock. 12vdc will unlock the door.

• You have (+) door lock system so you need to use the positive outputs to the respective wires on the diagram below.

J2-Pin 13 - BLACK/ White wire (Negative, Tach or Vacuum) is not connected to anything. The Tahoe wiring chart says the Tach signal is on a White wire at the Coil or Injector, but I couldn't find a White wire there.

• This is a very important connection. If this is not connected to a tach signal you will not get the RS to work at all. ECM is located near the battery, down low, between the fender and the fan under the black plastic cover. On the 4.3L, the tach wire is at pin 20 in the connector labeled 'red', and VSS wire is at pin 3 in the connector labeled 'black'. On the 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L, the tach wire is located at pin 10 in the 'red' connector, and VSS wire is located in pin 50 of the 'red' connector.

IPPME Connections:

White wire (Output, Data) is connected to the Yellow Starter wire at the Ignition Switch. This would be the same as the Purple wire above. Is this right? Do I need to use a diode or something with this configuration?

Black wire (Input, Chassis Ground) is connected to the metal dashboard frame. Or should it be connected to the Black wire at the Ignition Switch?

• This is not a correct connection. The YELLOW wire they are referring to is about 24 gauge in size and has two other wires along with it. YOu will find it in either a yellow, orange or black tube sheath and is run along side the rest of the ignition wires. These are your Passlock wires and that is what you need to attach the BLACK wire and WHITE wire from the IPPME to. Look at the diagram on the top left of the installation sheet they gave you.

|       ITEM      |     WIRE COLOR     |POL|       WIRE LOCATION        |

Notes:

Thanks for the quick reply.  My weekend was too full to do much work on the RS install, but I had about 45 minutes this evening to check your answers with my wiring.  Here's what I found:

J2-Pin 1 - White wire (+12vdc Parking Light Output) to positive side of Parking Lamps. {Contrary to my first post, this is what the install directions really said.}

You said:

J2-Pin 1 - White wire (+12vdc Parking Light Output) to positive side of Parking Lamps. {Contrary to my first post, this is what the install directions really said.}

You said:

No typo.... I was correct in saying that you need to attach the WHITE wire from the CS324T to a BROWN wire at the BCM ( LIGHT BLUE PLUG is where you will find the BROWN wire )

My truck will sound the horn if the doors were locked with the window down and you reach through and open the door with the inside handle.  Is that an OEM alarm option? Should I connect to the Lt Green wire in the  purple plug of the BCM?

Yes, connect this to the OEM alarm disarm wire ( LIGHT GREEN )

Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Well, I got all the wires connected, but ran out of time to connect the modules and program them to give the whole thing the official smoke test.  I'll try that tomorrow.  Another post here shows a wiring chart with wire guage sizes, so I'll doublecheck my connections.

My Passlock wires weren't in a separate tube sheath, BTW, but I could tell by the wire colors that they were grouped together, so I think I'm OK there.

I hooked up a Starter Interrupt Relay without a diode between the RS and the relay.  The RS instruction sheet shows a diode, but they also have an LED w/resistor connected to the RS side that I don't have.  Do I still need a diode there to protect the RS from the 12volts on the other side of the relay coil or am I OK?

I feel I'm way over the hump on this project, can't wait to plug in the modules and see what works.  Right now my confidence level is pretty high. Thanks.

J2-Pin 12 - Green wire (+12vdc Input for Brake Switch) is connected to the Orange wire at the Brake Switch. It is the hot side of the switch

You need to move your brake input also. You said your connected to the hot side (which I assume means constant +12 volts at the switch). You need to be connected to the WHITE wire that only shows +12 volts when the brake is depressed. Otherwise the remote start will never engage because the brake input is what shuts the RS off when you get in the vehicle and put the key in and turn it the ignition on. Anyway please double check that connection or you may have trouble. Use a test light and make sure you get +12 only when you press the brake pedal.

Oh by the way, If you hooked the DATA wire of you IPP-ME to the starter wire and it saw 12 volts at any time, you may have ruined that bypass. If you never engaged the starter while it was hooked up then you should be okay. Hope everything turns out well. Good Luck

Well, so much for a high confidence level.  I can still start and drive my truck, but I couldn't I couldn't even get through the Tach Programming step.  The Park lights never flashed.  The door locks never triggered either.

The Bypass should be OK as I never connected either module until all the wiring was done and the Data wire was connected to the Yellow wire in the group of Passlock wires.  It is a small wire about 18 guage.

After the initial test failed I went back over all my connections and I changed the Brake wire from the Orange to the White on the brake switch.  No change.

I checked to make sure all the module fuses were good and I have 12 volts and Ground to the RS and the Bypass.

What is the bare minimum of wires to hook up to have this thing pass the Tach Programming step?  Seems like an awful lot of wires to hook up at once for it not to work.  I'm all for eliminating all the extra B.S. to end up with a smaller number of connections to troubleshoot.  And is there a way to check the Bypass module to see if it is OK?  They have made troubleshooting rather difficult by not including any visual indicators on either module.

I have written down where I made each connection along with the color and size of each wire and where that wire goes, but I don't have time to include that info in this post.  Right now I'm just fishing for troubleshooting ideas and I appreciate all the help I have received from this forum already.  I know I'm close, now I want the cigar.

Here’s the latest in my never-ending saga:

I have successfully programmed one of my transmitters, but I still can’t get through the Tach Programming. I’m not sure if the Tach Signal is what it should be, or if the RS is mis-wired. I have a Starter Interrupt Relay installed and also the IPP-ME.

After going through the Tach Programming step, if I try to perform a Remote Start, all the lights seem to flash properly and the engine cranks, but it does not start and I end up with an Over-crank Protection code of three flashes. The RS Tach wire is connected to the white wire at pin 10 of the Red connector at the ECM and it measures 6.8vac with a DMM, but it doesn’t seem to fluxuate when the engine is revved. I checked an odd-colored wire at one of the injectors and it read the same. I tried to do a Tach Adjustment, but the engine will still not Remote Start.   BTW, I did have the hood open when I was supposed to.

If I then try to start the engine manually with the key, it won’t crank until I hit the Lock or Unlock buttons on the transmitter which apparently toggles the Starter Interrupt Relay. If I disconnect the RS module, the engine will start manually every time, so I suspect my problem is with the RS not the IPP-ME. I’m thinking maybe my starter wires aren’t quite right, so here is how they are connected.  According to a chart posted on this site;

• Yellow +12vdc Starter Output is supposed to go to a 16 gauge Yellow wire at the IGN switch, but the biggest one I could connect to is 18 gauge, and it has +12vdc in START only.
• Blue +True Ignition Output is to go to a 12 gauge Pink wire at the IGN switch, but the only one is 14 gauge and has +12vdc when in ON or START.
• RED / White Ignition 2 is to go to a 12 gauge White wire at the IGN switch, but the only one is 18 gauge.

How can I be sure these are the correct wires? When is Ignition 2 supposed to have voltage on it?

Sorry these posts are so long, I’m just trying to be explicit in order to get accurate answers without a lot of delay. I need all the help I can get. ;-)