the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

2005 Impala door trigger diode isolation


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
05impalaman 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: April 03, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: April 03, 2006 at 9:14 AM / IP Logged  

Hello everybody!  First of all I want to say thanks for the wealth of information on this site.  You all really know your stuff.  Okay, here's my problem:  I recently installed a Viper 791xv in my '05 Impala.  I followed all of the diagrams, and everything worked flawlessly from the first test aside from one problem.  I diode isolated the two door trigger wires and the trunk pin from themselves and the BCM following the 1076 document and tied them all into the (-) door trigger input on the alarm.  However, I recently discovered that when the trunk is open, the display on the instrument cluster flashes between "Door Ajar" and "Trunk Open" and the interior lights are on.  Only the driver's door lights up the interior lights and causes the "key in ignition" chime, which is correct I assume.  Also, only the driver's door, the rear passenger door, and the trunk trigger the alarm from what I can tell.  This is very confusing.  Could some of the diodes have been defective or damaged?  I used the 1 amp diodes from RadioShack.  Thanks for the help!

~Randy

P.S.- If anyone needs wiring / mounting / diagram help for the 00-05 Impala / Monte Carlo, let me know.

There are 10 kinds of people in the world... those that understand binary, and those that don't.
Big Dog 
Gold - Posts: 1,265
Gold spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 02, 2002
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: April 03, 2006 at 12:02 PM / IP Logged  
I doubt the diodes are defective.
The correct wires are in a pink plug at the BCM near driver's kick.
The LF door is gray/black in pin 10.
The RF door is tan/white in pin 8.
The LR door is lt. blue/black in pin 15.
The RR door is lt. GREEN/ black in pin 14.
I would disconnect all then try each input one at a time, then when I'm sure they work individually, connect them one at a time until the problem re-appears (if it re-appears).
Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
05impalaman 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: April 03, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: April 03, 2006 at 12:57 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the reply!  I used the dark blue and dark blue / white wires in the gray 16 pin plug at the BCM ( per http://lund-industries.com/Wiring_Info_Files/WIRING%20INFO-2005%20Impala.html).  I then used the RED / black wire in the gray 24 pin plug for the trunk trigger.  All three of these should be diode isolated like in the DirectFax 1076 document (cathodes tied together, anode facing BCM and alarm).  Supposedly the dark blue wire catches the driver's door and the dark blue / white catches the others.  That doesn't make sense though, since only one or two of the passenger doors is triggering and the trunk is obviously tied in with a door somewhere.  Anybody else have any ideas?
There are 10 kinds of people in the world... those that understand binary, and those that don't.
Big Dog 
Gold - Posts: 1,265
Gold spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 02, 2002
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: April 03, 2006 at 2:45 PM / IP Logged  

Reviewing the Schematics in Mitchell I say that I agree with you 100% for the wires you've chosen.

LF is Blue C3/A8, (-), Door open.

RF, LR and RR is dark blue/white C3/A1, (-), Door ajar.

Trunk is RED / black C2/A11 (-)

C2 is large gray plug

C3 is small gray plug

These wires go straight from the switches to the BCM.

Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
05impalaman 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: April 03, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: April 03, 2006 at 2:58 PM / IP Logged  
Any idea what could have went wrong?  I figured maybe I could have overheated a diode when I was soldering it to get the trunk to "un-isolate", but that doesn't explain why only some of the passenger doors trigger.  I wonder if there's any problems with the door pins in these cars? 
There are 10 kinds of people in the world... those that understand binary, and those that don't.
Big Dog 
Gold - Posts: 1,265
Gold spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 02, 2002
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: April 03, 2006 at 3:39 PM / IP Logged  

Just a silly question, are you connecting doors to the green wire and the trunk to the dark blue of the 791?

Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
05impalaman 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: April 03, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: April 04, 2006 at 12:29 AM / IP Logged  
No... It's a negative trigger, too.  I'm just treating it like the two door inputs.  So the dark blue, dark blue / white, and red / black (trunk) wires all go to the green door trigger input after being diode isolated.  What dark blue input are you talking about, the multistage input?   Thanks for the reply! 
There are 10 kinds of people in the world... those that understand binary, and those that don't.
Big Dog 
Gold - Posts: 1,265
Gold spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 02, 2002
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: April 04, 2006 at 8:08 AM / IP Logged  
The trunk trigger wire should go to the H1/6 dark blue wire on the main harness of the 791. It's a dedicated trunk input.
Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
05impalaman 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: April 03, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: April 04, 2006 at 8:58 AM / IP Logged  

Now that's somewhat sneaky on Directed's part.  If I look in the installation manual at the wiring info, it says that's a multiplexed input for the second shock sensor.  If I look on the back page at the wiring diagram, it shows that as the trunk trigger.  I just found another post on here with the same problem.  Looks like I have to take my kick panel apart again after all, cuz I'd like it to show the trunk input on the remote.  Hope I didn't cut that wire too short!  lol   Anything else you can think of?   Thanks!

There are 10 kinds of people in the world... those that understand binary, and those that don't.
Big Dog 
Gold - Posts: 1,265
Gold spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 02, 2002
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: April 04, 2006 at 9:23 AM / IP Logged  
05impalaman wrote:

. . . Anything else you can think of?   Thanks!

1) Impala's have OEM anti-grind and connecting a tach wire could be counterproductive. Program the 791 for "Voltage sense" and "Voltage sense LOW" and "2 second crank".

2) You must connect the brown acc wire at the ign switch and be sure to feed it as an acc (not ign) or she'll never start.

3)Diode isolate the white parklight wire so there is no feedback to the switch.

Better still, use the blue negative parklight signal ( bcm, gray 16 pin plug, pin a2). No relay required for the latter but be sure 791 is set for negative output.

Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
Page of 2

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Thursday, October 31, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer