clifford matrix 10.2 unlock not working

I recently installed a clifford 10.2X into a 2008 Altima coupe. All is good except the unlock is not working, lock is working fine. I have connected the H3/C GREEN/ black to (-) to the lock wire and connected the H3/F blue/black (-) to the unlock wire. The H3/A BLACK/ white is connected to ground.The blue/black does not receive a pulse when unlock button is pressed (checked with ohm meter)?I have programmed it to be double pulsed.Any ideas?Thanks in advance!

Have you grounded the violet and violet/black wires in the same harness?

No, am I supposed to? The violet wire is showing 12v+?

The instructions are not too detailed, see below...H3/A BLACK/ WHITE DomeLight Supervision relay Input #87WHITE/ BLACK Lock #87a Normally ClosedGREEN/ BLACK Lock #30 Common (Output)VIOLET/BLACK* Lock #87 Normally Open (Input)BROWN / BLACK Unlock #87a Normally ClosedBLUE/BLACK Unlock #30 Common (Output)VIOLET* Unlock #87 Normally Open (Input)   *NOTE: VIOLET and VIOLET/BLACK are common at fuse holder.The system has door lock relays on-board, and can directly interface with most electric power doorlock systems drawing 30 amps or less. It can also drive aftermarket actuators directly. (Some vehiclesrequire that an aftermarket actuator be added to the driver’s door to allow system control, see TypeD wiring section in Tech Tip Document 1041). The lock wire also supplies the output for thecomfort closure feature (if used).Thanks

The instructions are meant for dealers that know what they are doing and understand relays. Not for people that buy it off the internet and install it in their driveway. What is connected to 87, comes out of 30 when you hit lock or unlock. Actually, I have no idea how the lock is even working. You need to ground both wires labeled #87. You can switch out the fuses in those wires to something small too. 3 amp or 5 amp fuses would be fine. They will be drawing less than 1 amp of current.

hey JWorm,

Thanks for the info, all is good now!

As for the instructions being for dealers that know... I agree with you to a point. I'm sure if the instructions had been more explicit (as you described above), I would have had no problem. The fact is, right or wrong, people sometime want to attempt to do things on their own (i.e HomeDepot is on every corner now!).  If I screw up, I'm fully willing to pay the consequences and not blame anyone else but myself. Also, I have had several instances where I have brought a vehicle to the "pro's" to have work done, only to have it returned damaged and when you make a claim the "pro" simply denies it was them, it works both ways.

Again, thanks for the info. you provided, much appreciated!

My point wasn't that you couldn't or shouldn't do the install yourself. It was more to say that the instruction with most alarms are poorly written and do not get into too great of detail. You need to have an understanding of how alarm's work to be able to understand the instructions. Every car is different and there are hundreds of different possible scenarios in how it will be installed depending on the car it is going into. Most manufacturers (like DEI) will have other supporting technical support that will get into specific vehicle information. The tech document 1041 that they reference in the instruction guide is actually a .pdf file that gets into in-depth examples of the many types of doorlock systems out there. Also, if the instructions were more explicit, then even more d.i.y'ers out there would be trying to do it themselves. The manufacturers would prefer that their authorized dealers do the installs. It keeps the amount of stuff returned for being "defective" to a minimum and also keeps the amount of calls to tech support down. Glad to see you got everything working.