concept400 auxiliary outputs only .65v?

I'm installing a G4 Clifford Concept 400 in my 1996 Honda Civic, and I'm currently working on the 3 Auxiliary outputs. The alarm was originally installed back in July 2002, and I had the installer remove it about 18months ago as I was doing an engine transplant. I was given back what I was told was everything that came out... I have a G4 Installers CD so I have the manuals. I've managed to hook up all the basics(i think) but am now having trouble with the auxiliary outputs. They all output only .65volts? I also have a Windows 98 laptop running the Cliffnet Pro(as I only have the old version which won't run on XP). It only gives settings for either latched, timed or pulsed. They were used for: 1. Timed headlight activation 2. Latched accessories activation 3. Pulsed activation of a window closure unit. Am I missing something? Have I miss wired the basics of the alarm or do the outputs have to pass through some sort of inverter or something? Go easy on me, my understanding of electronics is only beginner level.

never seen .65 volts before on an output, usaully minimal is 12v and they usually control relays. Try connecting up a relay and see if the output can make the relay click

Yeah, got a couple of 4pin relays yesterday evening. I'm going to give them a shot today...fingers crossed something happens! If it is a case of triggering a relay with the output and then having the relay hooked to 12V, I assume each relay's 12V supply will need an in line fuse?? If so, anyone know what size fuse would be appropriate for each thing above?

The should be giving out neg reative to 12v+ when activated, have you referenced them properly from a 12v+ source? Yes to fuses 20amp for the first 2 and 30 for the third per two windows.

Right, think I have this twigged. Following some details I found in another post on the forum, I connected up the 4 pin relay as follows: 85 - Alarm Auxiliary output 86 & 87 - Fused 12V+ 30 - Becomes relay output When the alarm auxiliary is activated, it must be grounding somehow(despite failing a continuity test with the body of the car), because when activated, pin 30 gives 12V. When it grounds, the .65/.7v must just be whats sitting on the alarms ground circuit?? So, can you confirm if my plan as follows looks right: 12V from battery through 30Amp fuse, and on to: -Pin 86 of Relay -Pin 87 of Relay -Power input wire of window closure unit(a Metasystems unit which was in the car prior to the Clifford being installed,&was re-used instead of getting SmartWindows) Then, -Pin 85 of relay takes Auxiliary output from alarm -Pin 30 goes to 12V activation wire of window closure unit This auxiliary is set as pulsed activation - which is all the closure unit needs - a pulse of 12V on its ignition/activation wire. Finally, how do I test for negative relative to 12v+ when activated?

howie ll wrote: Yes to fuses 30 for the third per two windows.

It's doing 2 windows and a sun roof? Pretty petty of the installer to keep the relays and fuses though eyh? Probably on purpose though - if they'd been in the box of stuff I was given back I'd probably have figured this out quicker - and obviously a lot of DIY-ers would give up when they find something that doesn't just plug and play.

relay is wired right, u dont need to fuse it at 30 amps. the window module should draw that much althought the realy is a 30/40 amp realy, u can fuse it at 20 if u wanted. if ur doing door locks 5 amps is fine. Also, to test for ground when the unit is activated. take ur digital volt meter, connect RED (+) to constant 12 volts eg 12v at ignition and the Black (-) ground wire, connect to your auxilliary wire  from your unit. useing the control hit your desired aux button and see if the DMM shows 12v for a quick second. if it does u have a ground when aux active.

Sorry, tedmond is correct I should have mentioned how to test with a DMM, also note you have 3 aux outputs, grey/blue, grey/purple, grey/ red and green which goes to ground on arming aka an armed output. The green should run to the trigger wire on the window closer which would have its own fuse, also some headlights eg Toyota, my Mits Galant  use neg trigger at the switch thus no relay required for the last two. Check your high beam to see if it's pos or neg going.