starter start with dei 528t

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BrianR84

Member - Posts: 20

Joined: August 19, 2003

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: July 05, 2009 at 11:27 PM / IP Logged

hey guys, long story short, the IPDM [costs ~650$ to relace] on my M35 is messed up so the car wont start the way it supposed to. so what i want to do for the time being is to use a 528T to make my own start signal. i am trying to figure out the best way to wire it up. i need ~10 sec + signal to the starter module.

from my understanding:

red & yellow - batt +12v

black - chassis ground

BLACK/ w stripe - ign signal from push button

brown - starter

pretty much what i am trying to do is get the signal from when the push button is pressed to activate the 528T for ~10sec to send +12v to the starter.

TIA!

KPierson

Platinum - Posts: 3,527

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: July 06, 2009 at 7:48 AM / IP Logged

You drive a $45,000+ car and you're worried about a $650 part? :)

What year is your M35? What happened to the IPDM? Have you checked out Ebay or other places for used IPDMs? I would think you would be able to get a slightly used one for ~$250.

Kevin Pierson

BrianR84

Member - Posts: 20

Joined: August 19, 2003

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: July 07, 2009 at 1:17 PM / IP Logged

lol! i know right. its a 2006. i live in a golf course neighborhood where its all scenic and all. i mouse came up into the engine bay and chewed through a lot of the wires and loom going into the ipdm most likely shorting it out. when i took it out to clean up, resolder and all. the ipdm had a burnt smell. so with college pmt coming up, i figure this will be fine for a bit. at the moment i added a secondary bypass on/off toggle switch for the time being but its getting annoying. i haven't had time to run some diag tests to make sure all the wires are fixed so when i eventually get a new ipdm, it wont kill the new one as well. i looked around but never saw them for sale that cheap.

KPierson

Platinum - Posts: 3,527

Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: July 07, 2009 at 2:12 PM / IP Logged

I would check in to a gray/red wire coming from the TCU to the IPDM. It should hit the IPDM on Pin 53 (16 pin connector) and should have 12vdc on it when the ignition is on and the car is in P or N. Without that 12vdc the starter solenoid won't get power.

The switch you added, are you controlling the actual amount of time the starter solenoid stays on or something else? I guess I"m confused because I don't know where the "10 second window" comes in to play.

Kevin Pierson

BrianR84

Member - Posts: 20

Joined: August 19, 2003

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: July 07, 2009 at 6:57 PM / IP Logged

yeah, that was one of the wires that was chewed up. i replaced the wire amongst many others, cleaned it up and soldeRED / heat shrinked it.

the m35 has push button start. what i have currently done is i removed the relay on the ipdm, from top left, the 4th one down. and i have made a connector that goes into the cabin wired to an on/off 30a toggle switch. when i push the start button and it goes to "on", i hit my switch and it jumps the starter. then i toggle the switch to off after 5-10 seconds. but i found out with the dei 528t, it can temporarily provide 12v for 5-90 sec.

also, would you mind pm'ing me ur #? i figure that would be easier to explain.

thanks again for all your help!

KPierson

Platinum - Posts: 3,527

Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: July 07, 2009 at 7:46 PM / IP Logged

Have you checked the voltage on the gray/red wire? It is possible that you actually damaged the TCU, not the IPDM. If the IPDM was damaged I think you would be seeing many more problems then just the starter not starting.

If the gray/red wire isn't reading 12vdc you may be able to permanently tie that wire to a switched 12vdc signal - it would eliminate your "neutral safey switch" which prevents you from starting the car in gear, but for a short term quick fix I think it is a better choice then the 528t.

My concern with the 528t is that you will over or under crank the starter.

Kevin Pierson

BrianR84

Member - Posts: 20

Joined: August 19, 2003

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: July 07, 2009 at 9:11 PM / IP Logged

do, i didnt think of checking the voltage on that wire after the repair. is that line constant v or a temp signal?

the 528t as you know is adjustable in seconds. i figure id try and time how long i toggle the switch on to off and set it at that.

but i also like your idea but need a bit more help as to determine how i should hook it up.

when i did some continuity checks, it seemed that the starter relay fuse was not getting ground. i have some more notes when i get home ill post.

BrianR84

Member - Posts: 20

Joined: August 19, 2003

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: July 07, 2009 at 9:31 PM / IP Logged

also, would it be possible for the pdu to be bad? on the relay, the coil gets energized from the signal from the tcm (53)(like u stated earlier) and the cpu of the ipdm. once that happens, the plunger closes on the pdu (4) and starter motor wire (3).

KPierson

Platinum - Posts: 3,527

Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: July 07, 2009 at 10:27 PM / IP Logged

I wouldn't think the pdu would be bad, but anything is possible.

The only info I could find is that the signal from the TCU should be battery voltage when the shifter is in P or N. I would check this with a volt meter and if this isn't the case I would apply fused 12vdc to the wire and see if that "fixes" the problem.

Kevin Pierson

BrianR84

Member - Posts: 20

Joined: August 19, 2003

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: July 09, 2009 at 12:37 PM / IP Logged

understood. i have finals this week. i will try and check that this weekend or early next week and report back. again, thank you for all your help!

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