wire size

My vehicle has a hefty 6AWG fused 80AMP line. This is the recommended tapping spot for the 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander. I'm a bit rusty but I assume if I tap in a 10AWG line this should be more than fine for a CompuStar remote start controller(two 20AMP 16AWG 12V constant wires) and one SPDT relay?

If this is the wire that feeds the fusebox under the hood, then yes it will be fine. You are not adding any load to that wire, it is the wire that handles those same things, just via the ignition switch. No extra current on anything.

What's wrong with keeping it all INSIDE the car and picking up constants at the ignition? Craig, sorry to hijack but is there a table to convert wire gauges to ISO?

Actually I'm being hypocritical, so I apologise, on my last Mits, I ran 2 x8 gauges into the car, 80amps fused at battery to a junction box then separate fuses for all the aftermarket stuff, from R/S to trunk solenoid. Generally I won't run alarm-R/S power feeds under the hood for two reasons, security and power loss.

It's the recommended wire to splice from iDatalink. It feeds the fuse box under the steering column.

It's the correct wire your making us repeat ourselves.

My question wasn't whether or not it was the right feeder wire, the question was whether or not adding a 10AWG wire was sufficient for adding constant 12V to a remote start at this particular location. Sorry for any confusion. Sounds like I should be ok.

Does any one know how this translates into ISO sizes? Personally I would agree with the last post.

i am an idiot wrote: If this is the wire that feeds the fusebox under the hood, then yes it will be fine. You are not adding any load to that wire, it is the wire that handles those same things, just via the ignition switch. No extra current on anything.

I'm struggling a bit wrapping my head around this. I tapped in the two 14AWG constant 12V wires from the remote start to this source. These lines are both fused inline at 30AMP. If this location I tapped into is such a large wire fused at 80AMP, I would assume its powering the majority of the vehicle electronics right from the battery. I'm now by adding on the remote start am I not running everything back through this same source when I remotely start the vehicle essentially overloading that source?

Not at all as Mr.I says, you're simply paralleling the original functions. We keep repeating ourselves here because you don't appear to understand something that's blindingly simple, as long as you keep the Compustar fuses you're doing the equivalent of running directly from the battery. In fact if your'e unsure, extend those wires keeping to the same gauge or thicker to the battery, fuse them at the battery, that's 100% safe but IMO completely OTT.