need a little advice, and spec info

well (hopefully) my sub woofer has been sent. i have a 10" Eclipse 8102DVC (aluminum series, last years model, they changed/updated the models) on the way. The sub be pushed by 400watts @ 2ohm if wiring i can wire it up to that load. For my enclosure, i want to go with a sealed box that will fit up against the front of my trunk. It can take up around 1.0Cuft for asthetic purposes (how the box looks lined up in the trunk) more room is available for the depth of the box. i want a final volume of .70-.90 cuft with woofer displacement, bracing displacement. and if i need to i can fill the walls with pollyfill to smooth out the sound if need be. i have about 8" of clearance between floor, and the bottom of the speaker box's, 30" between the wheel wells. and as i said earlier depth isnt an issue so if the gross volume of my box needs to be over 1cuft thats kool. quicknote; box is being made out of 5/8 mdf. so far with the volume calc on this site i figured: W30xH7xD12 = 1.02 I need to know the displacement of the sub, and i cant find that on eclipse's website, or PDF's. if anyones got a 8102dvc or anything similar (10" 7100-8100 series) i could definitely use your knowledge Also, i'd like to know how much bracing i should use, i thought 2 braces on either end of the box 1/2 between the woofer and the nearest wall would suffice but suggestions are welcome. any suggestions, advice, warnings or critisims are welcome, MDF isnt cheap and i'd like to find a reasonable sized box with the first go; thats why i thought .70-.90 would offer a tighter response, maybe not so loud, but im sure it will hold its own as a strong 10". anyways, thanks for reading. im quite excited to get it installed and running.

ummmm   I am just questioning a few things,   MDF in my area is $18 for a sheet at home depot/sutherlands ect ect for 3/4 inch...I dont think that is expensive espically if you can buy an eclipse sub Second, Need to know if you got the dual 4 or dul 2 ohm model.    They we can figure out your wiring configuration 3rd   If you havent gotten an amp yet, look bigger, these subs will take way more power all day long. Yes I run my7100 series 10s at 400rms all day. but starting next year we will be running 4   10's at 1200rms each If you feel confident enough I would go with a vented enclosure and just make sure your make is very low since it is in a open cab..If not then go sealed And your estimates of .7-.9cu. ft are right on If you go with 3/4 you will not need any bracing These subs will pound    (2) 10inch 7100 series eclipses (2) memphis hc50's 1998 honda civic =144.7db on the term lab 2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR

2007 USACI World Champion

2007 World Record

2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place

to clarify some things. the Dual 2 or 4ohm isnt known the box will be in the trunk, but it will be right up @ the front of the trunk with the sub facing upwards at the rear deck where the 6.5s are mounted. im already running a 5channel amp, so i wont be looking for another amp till my next vehicle. Unless, for some rediculous reason i feel like changing my rears, i'd power them with 300watts and same with my fronts, and then buy an amp for my sub, but thats all fairy tale till i can get my self out of debt. i've already purchased a sheet of 5/8' mdf (have had it for sometime now). i was thinking if i have enough left over from the initial cuts, i'll use what i can and use another piece to sit on the top of the box, as added support to mount the sub on. i dont know if doubling up is nessesary for a 400watt sub, but if it can strengthen the top of the box, then i'll just use 1 brace on each side of the sub. but i've gotta go, busy day ahead of me, and i wish it was time spent on my car but not likely -_- thanks for the feedback jeff, btw that car, 144 *oww* this is a daily driven car i dont want the rust patches on the car becoming holes ;p

well, we dont have any rust patches thank goodness..But I am really really worried about the roof when we run all the subs and amps next year,    the roof flexes horribly around the sunroof.   We cant have it up too loud when its raining or else we get leaks from up there   haha.    the doors flap pretty bad but thats not a huge concern, We are starting to get alot of creaks and groan's from the interior, the car has 90,000 miles now and I think it is time to go ahead and replace all the broken clips and re dampen some areas to help this2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR

2007 USACI World Champion

2007 World Record

2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place

i was just wandering, when cutting the hole for the sub, what is the minimum distance i should come to any edge. my depth is 14" right now, but i kind of feel like tightening it up and making it a bit longer. i've just got winISD working for me to where i know what im sort of doing. I have optimized the box, this is a little more accurate box and has a QTC of .707, i found with a larger box i could achieve a better QTC with when i was looking at the gain/plot window. a the guy selling me this sub sent the parameters in an isd so as long as they are correct i believe i'll have a better box. anyways, if i can get away with (safely) tightening it up a couple inches, let me know. 12" would be perfect i think as a depth for sitting in my trunk, but 14" will do if i need the extra inches. thanks.