best 12 sealed sub enclosure for 1995

Well that will depend on what sound you are looking for specifically. Size changes subtly change the response of the speaker and can enhance certain tones or eliminate them.

If you are looking to keep the sub as precise as possible and don't mind sacrificing a LITTLE bit of boom, then get a box that is roughly 1.25 cubic feet (cf) inside. If you are looking to do a bit more boom and cut back a little on the "higher" note clarity (about 100 Hz in particular) then lean towards a larger box say around 3-4 cf inside it.

Now the box size will also affect the power handling of the sub as well. By sticking it in a smaller box, you are now adding an acoustic "spring" to the sub and it will need more power to make it as loud as the same sub in a bigger box. Going with the 1.25 cfwill raise the power to 400 watts RMS handling. The 3-4 cf boxes will retain the 300w RMS handling as stated on the box itself.

Lastly, this is hte most important part (in my opinion) Assuming you will want to be able to hit the subs fairly hard (if not tearing them up), make sure your amp is 2ohm stable. MOST amps that are 2-channel bridgable are not stable at 2ohms and electronically they will see a short (even though it keeps running) and heat up losing lots of power and ability in the process (and in extreme cases, creating a burn hazard). Stick with a mono-block or preferably a Class-D amp for the sub. You pay a bit more, but the Class-Ds will be a lot more efficient than the standard A/B class amps. Wire up your coils in parallel and that should take care of your sub being stable with the amp.