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what to use to secure the sub to the box


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jason777 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: December 16, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: July 21, 2008 at 5:33 PM / IP Logged  
I'm almost done building my box, and I dont want to just screw the sub to the box, cause the holes wear out if you have to remove the sub for some reason. I'm not sure if going all the way through and using a nut is valid because wouldnt that cause an air leak? What do professional box builders use?
Thanks!!
megaman 
Copper - Posts: 385
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 24, 2008
Location: Montana, United States
Posted: July 21, 2008 at 6:28 PM / IP Logged  
screws
boogeyman 
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Silver spacespace
Joined: October 18, 2007
Location: Tennessee, United States
Posted: July 21, 2008 at 6:29 PM / IP Logged  
   I use T-Nuts from parts express.......With a little CA glue on the "female" side..........works great.
trs audio 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2008
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 25, 2008 at 4:39 AM / IP Logged  
get your self some 1/4 in stainless srews and nuts.  epoxy the nuts to the inside make sure u use enough epoxy 
goaheadandh8me 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: September 12, 2008
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: September 12, 2008 at 12:50 AM / IP Logged  
t-nuts are the way to go my friend.
josh
black97mirage 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: September 05, 2008
Location: Alabama, United States
Posted: September 13, 2008 at 9:55 PM / IP Logged  
There are nuts I've seen at True Value that are like a threaded sleeve with barbs on one end, you need to predrill for the sleeve then counter sink the head slightly. I'd still add some kind of sealant like a JB weld 2 part epoxy.
I drive a 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage LS Coupe. I love it and I've got a knack for the 12volt stuff.
bassbindevil 
Member - Posts: 5
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Joined: September 16, 2008
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: September 17, 2008 at 6:16 AM / IP Logged  
Yep, those are T-nuts. The rectangularish ones are better than the round ones.
Now, to mount them, pounding them in with a hammer doesn't work well. Pressing is good, but inconvenient. The logical thing is to use a bolt to pull them into place, but it takes a lot of force, and if you just have a washer under the head of the bolt it'll chew up the front panel. I used a big flat chunk of metal (like the flat wrench for a Skilsaw or die grinder) as a sort of oversized washer to spread out the force, with a couple of washers under the bolt head.
Another thing, though... it is VERY bad if the t-nut isn't anchored solidly to the cabinet, because if it comes loose, you will have a lot of fun ever getting the speaker out again. They stick in plywood OK, but not so well in particle board, or MDF. Make sure the driver cutout is no wider than absolutely necessary, so there's plenty of wood for the T-nut to stick into. Usually the spec sheet recommends a larger opening than absolutely necessary.
Is this bass really strong enough?
spookiestylez 
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Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: September 23, 2005
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: September 17, 2008 at 10:05 PM / IP Logged  
never used any t nuts before. I might try them out, and order a few for my shop. We use stingers mostly, like 1-1/2" ones.
rtfm

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