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what do i do after the 6 coats of fb


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pmendoza408 
Copper - Posts: 56
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 23, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 09, 2006 at 1:47 AM / IP Logged  
i been reading on the forum but i just wanted to know what do i do after the 6 coats of glass do i sand the fb glass if so with what grit. Or do i just add bondo then sand that. i was looking for something like this but was not able to find this exact question.
Also i used the flece and on the back where i connected it to the mold there is some fleece showing do i not worrie about it or do i trim it aswell as the excess fiber glass leaking from the corners.
Sorry for all the questions this is my first project and i am trying to get everything right. i did search but nothing really addresed this direct. Please help me out thanks in advance
TCalYen 
Copper - Posts: 145
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 15, 2004
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: January 09, 2006 at 6:02 AM / IP Logged  

I try to level out the high areas of glass with 50 grit personally.  If you done laying down the glass do that and then bondo, sand and bondo/sand again and again as needed.

Where is the fleece showing?  If it's around the back I'd make a batch of resin and lay it on.

TCalYen
jfunk06 
Copper - Posts: 64
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 18, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 09, 2006 at 4:28 PM / IP Logged  
I like using a 120 grit flapping disk on a angle grinder.  That goes real good.  The thing that i would worry about is big spikes in it, but dont take too much down, because you dont want to compromise its strength.  Bondo should be able to smooth the msajoprity of it out.
Govenor of Jimcinati
93' GMC Safari XT
pmendoza408 
Copper - Posts: 56
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 23, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 09, 2006 at 6:34 PM / IP Logged  
the fleece is showing on the back and i also wanted to know if to hold it to the car do i just use a bolt and bolt it to the car or how will it hold in place>?
I will try to sand the fiber glass my only fear is that i will sand off the layers that i have put on there. also how do air bubbles compromise the strength?
pmendoza408 
Copper - Posts: 56
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 23, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 09, 2006 at 6:34 PM / IP Logged  
thank you for the help
TCalYen 
Copper - Posts: 145
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 15, 2004
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: January 09, 2006 at 10:18 PM / IP Logged  

I'm using industrial strength velcro to secure a 150 lb enclosure in a 13 second suv.  WalMart... crafts section...

Not to step on anyone's toes...jfunk06, buyt120 grit, even with an angle grinder is a pain... use a coarser grit.  If you don't have a tank just get a "plug in" square sander or whatever you call them and that'll do the trick.  If you have big air bubbles, I'd sand everything down a bit and "spot" layer where the bubbles were and then resand.

TCalYen
tuscani 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2006
Posted: January 09, 2006 at 10:20 PM / IP Logged  
Depends on how big and how many air bubbles you have, anything thats smaller than a dime (as long as there aren't too many) shouldn't be a huge problem.. But when you lay a second layer on, you want to be very particular when smoothing it, bubbles are generally bad.
Oh, and if your using 50grit sand paper, and you do in fact have 6 layers of FBglass, good luck sanding through it. I usually just take my 4" grinder and grind all the points and high spots down. The fill over with body filler.
jfunk06 
Copper - Posts: 64
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 18, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 09, 2006 at 10:27 PM / IP Logged  

tuscani wrote:
Oh, and if your using 50grit sand paper, and you do in fact have 6 layers of FBglass, good luck sanding through it. I usually just take my 4" grinder and grind all the points and high spots down. The fill over with body filler.

Thats what i am saying.  I don't sand my actual glasswork, just the stuff thats really out of shape(a corner of the mette flipped up, ect.)  And when it comes to a flapping disc, i prefer to use 120grit cause its going around 7-8,000rpm and with that speed, 120 grit will burn through something real quik.  60grit will just cut through it like a knife!   And its always better to smooth with bondo than FG, for one reason, price.  Dont shave off FG just to add more, keep the FG integrity strong, and use bondo to cover imperfections.  Cause 10dollar diffrence in price is alot when you are doing a sub enclosure!

Govenor of Jimcinati
93' GMC Safari XT
pmendoza408 
Copper - Posts: 56
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 23, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 09, 2006 at 10:56 PM / IP Logged  

thanks for all the help. i appreciate all this help i will try to velcro it to the car hopefully it will hold. i dont have many bubbles on the outside but i do have some on the base the piece that sits on the car.

once again thank you

bellsracer 
Silver - Posts: 703
Silver spacespace
Joined: January 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: January 17, 2006 at 5:15 AM / IP Logged  

ummm... about the velcro... how heavy is your project? anything around 8 pounds or over should not be held with velcro. at about 35 mph if you get hit in a crash, there is almost no velcro that will hold. at 8 lbs, 35 mph the box will carry more force then most bowling balls being thrown at you. "Use the bolts, Luke" (sorry bad joke)

As for bubbles, they weaken the glass because it gives the glass an area to flex. If you are planning on using a hard hitting woofer, I highly recommend filling the holes and reinforcing them with another layer of mat.

Oh and don't use power tools to sand things down. it will just tear through it and it is a lot easier to remove a little than to remove too much and have to patch and reinforce everything.

Hope this helps. Ganbatte ne (good luck -or- do your best)

Never send your ducks to eagle school.
The difference between ordinary and extraordinary is that little extra.
The 3Ls of life: Learn from the Past, Live for the Present, Look to the Future.
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