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hid high beam trouble.


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soundnsecurity 
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Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: May 22, 2013 at 12:07 PM / IP Logged  
my truck is a 2011 nissan frontier, installed a set of HID lights about a year ago and ive been putting this problem off ever since. the problem i am having is that my original bulbs were a dual filament bulb, each filament has its own 12v wire so when i turn my high beams on the main wire that activates the relay pack goes dead so the HID's turn off completely. the HID set i have are a high low bulb but they are the magnetic type, not the type with a separate bulb for the high beam.
for the high beam to work the HID's need to stay on for the high and low beam and i cant for the life of me think of a way to wire it up so that it works with the factory switch.
the only way i can think of would be to split the high beam wire using diodes and tie the high beam and low beam together going to the HID relay pack and use the new high beam wire to work the magnetic solenoid in the bulbs. the only problem i can think of with this is if there is a slight cut off in power between switching from low beam to high beam then the balasts would cut off and on briefly and i dont think this would be good for the balasts in the long run especially if i want to flash the high beams a few times in a row.
i could use a latching device like a PAC TR7 to hold power to the repay pack but then i would need a separate switch to turn them off of flip the light switch on and off again to unlatch.
so, im stuck, i dont know what i should do. im sure this is not an isolated case and someone has a solution so please help me out on this one and it would be greatly appreciated.
Ween 
Platinum - Posts: 1,366
Platinum spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2004
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: May 22, 2013 at 6:19 PM / IP Logged  
just as you were thinking...high and low beams connected together with the isolation diodes to the hid power relay. high beam also activates the magnetic circuit.
then add an electrolytic capacitor across the relay coil (observe polarity). start with 1000uf and at least 25volt rating. if the switching delay can be increased with more capacitance (parallel) or decreased with less.
soundnsecurity 
Gold - Posts: 2,711
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: May 22, 2013 at 8:58 PM / IP Logged  
alright cool ill try that, but now i have another issue that i found after playing with the bulbs today i found that once i activate the high beam mode in the bulb it will stick and stay in after i disconnect the power so i guess i need new or better bulbs with a slightly stronger spring inside them. or maybe i need to lube them up because they have been sitting for about a year without having the high beam activated. either way thanks for the advice ill give it a shot once i fix the bulb issue.
oh, when you say to put a cap across the relay coil, which relay are you referring to? if you are talking about the relay pack that runs the ballasts then i might not be able to do that because its all enclosed into a single module. ill have to see if i can determine which wires go to the coils or maybe just wire a set of regular relays instead.
Ween 
Platinum - Posts: 1,366
Platinum spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2004
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: May 22, 2013 at 9:39 PM / IP Logged  
yes, it would be the relay pack for the ballasts.

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