remove passive crossovers?

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sound

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Joined: April 14, 2008

Location: United States

Posted: May 22, 2008 at 5:16 PM / IP Logged

wondering how many people with digital sound processors remove the passive crossovers from their component speakers and amplify the tweeter and midrange seperately? how many watts would you feed the tweeters if your feeding the midrange 75 watts? is their a big difference in sound quality?

DYohn

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Joined: April 22, 2003

Location: Arizona, United States

Posted: May 22, 2008 at 5:36 PM / IP Logged

sound wrote:

(1) wondering how many people with digital sound processors remove the passive crossovers from their component speakers and amplify the tweeter and midrange seperately? (2) how many watts would you feed the tweeters if your feeding the midrange 75 watts?(3) is their a big difference in sound quality?

(1) Only advanced user should attempt a bi-amp setup. But there are quite a few who do.

(2) It largely depends on the crossover point, but in general if you mimic the slope and knee frequency of the OEM design, in a 75-watt rated system the tweet will probably see no more than 10 watts.

(3) There can be a dramatic improvement in some cases, no change in some cases, and a dramatic disappointment in some cases. It all depends on the system and the skill of the person setting it up.

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sound

Member - Posts: 14

Joined: April 14, 2008

Location: United States

Posted: May 22, 2008 at 7:17 PM / IP Logged

ok thank you. the component set i will be using is a mb quart qm 218.61. it is from about the 2001 time frame and the crossover itself can be bi-amped. maybe i'll just mount the crossovers close to the amps and remove them after i get used to using the sound processor(alpine pxa-h701). the operation manual for the components shows how to set it up this way but does not explain any benifits. I had to ask because i've noticed huge improvements when using active xovers with subs.

falconyellow

Member - Posts: 33

Joined: March 31, 2008

Location: Oregon, United States

Posted: May 22, 2008 at 7:46 PM / IP Logged

I'd say to use the bi-amp inputs on your passives to start and this will give you the ability to play with the individual tweeter/mid gains to see what type of benefits you have there before going fully active. You can really damage your tweeters if you cross them over too low or have turn-on thumps or other problems when active.

Also read this: http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm

sound

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Joined: April 14, 2008

Location: United States

Posted: May 22, 2008 at 9:54 PM / IP Logged

I must be nuts. I just went out and bought a set of alpine spx-17ref components. must be some disease i have. anyway, these are bi-amp capable as well. so if i run two sets of components i would need another 4 channel amp to run the tweeters. the 300/4 jl amp will run the midrange speakers and maybe i'll get an alpine 4 channel mrp-f250 for the tweets. 150 dollar special on crutchfeild. or is there another amp i could get cheaper that would work well for running tweets?

jmelton86

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Joined: February 07, 2007

Location: South Carolina, United States

Posted: May 22, 2008 at 10:07 PM / IP Logged

sound wrote:

There is no need for another amp. Power the tweeters from the front channels, and the mid-woofers from the rear channels on the JL 4channel.

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sound

Member - Posts: 14

Joined: April 14, 2008

Location: United States

Posted: May 23, 2008 at 9:15 AM / IP Logged

good article falcon. i might have to read it a couple more times but its already useful.its kind of a tough descision to make but from the info off this forum and what the salesman told me i think i'll be happier with the passives in place. i considered buying tweeters and midranges seperately, but most experianced installers don't even do this. jmelton - i suppose i could add an extra amp later if i think i need to be able to adjust it more. also its nice to be able to turn down the volume for rear seat passengers

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remove passive crossovers?

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