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crossover freq points?


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bradinar 
Member - Posts: 33
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Joined: April 26, 2009
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: May 26, 2009 at 10:38 AM / IP Logged  

Hello,

I was wondering if I could get some advice from the pros out there on setting up my crossover points.  My car is a 2001 chevy malibu. 

First a little info on my setup.  I have a IVA W205 running two JL audio amps, a 1000/1 running two alpine TYPE R 12's and a 300/4 running the older style kicker resolution R5c midrange and R25a tweeter with the kicker crossovers. 

In the near future I want to use the rear channels of the 300/4 to run a Kicker CVT65 6.5 inch sub which I am going to put up front in a small area under the dash in the middle of the car and build a small box for it.  My goal is to use this small sub for my midbass driver and have it give the "illusion" of up front bass as the two 12's are in the trunk.  If you aren't familiar with the slash amps they have pretty nice built in crossovers with selectable slops, a multiplier, the 1000/1 has a sub sonic cutoff. 

I would like to get some advice on the crossover points for the subs, midbass, and components, and should I use 12db or 24db slopes? Do I need to have some overlap in the frequencies?  I know this is a complicated question but I really want to get everything set up porperly. 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: May 26, 2009 at 10:52 AM / IP Logged  
Sub low-pass and main component high-pass @ 80-100Hz, at least 12db/octave.  As far as using a subwoofer up front for "mid-bass," don't use a subwoofer.  Use a regular woofer.  Mid-bass is from about 80Hz up to about 300Hz.
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bradinar 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2009
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: May 26, 2009 at 11:11 AM / IP Logged  
The 6.5 inch CVT65 has a frequency response up to 350HZ.  Wouldn't this be okay for midbass use? Would it be a good idea to cross the subs over at about 80hz at 24db/octave then have the midbass crossed over at around 100hz and set it to HP and let it roll off on its own then set the components to about 300hz HP or should the midbass be set to LP?
DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: May 26, 2009 at 11:25 AM / IP Logged  
You could try it, but a standard woofer will sound better above 100Hz.  If you want to do it right you'll either need to band pass the woofer between your sub LP and whatever you choose as the top of the band, or simply low pass the extra woofer at about 300-400Hz.  Be aware that this setup could conflict with your front mains.  IMO it would probably be a better solution to simply use a set of front mains with sufficient mid-bass output and not try to augment them with an extra woofer.
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bradinar 
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Joined: April 26, 2009
Location: Arkansas, United States
Posted: May 26, 2009 at 11:32 AM / IP Logged  
The car has factory 4X6 openings in the door.  I built adaptor plates for my 5 1/4 components but I don't think I could fit anything bigger without major cutting on the door and the 5 1/4 seem kind of small for good midbass response.  I do have a set of the same model RS6 6.5 inch woofers that match the 5.25 component set.  Do you think running both of these in a small box would be better than the single 6.5inch sub?
stevdart 
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Posted: May 26, 2009 at 10:41 PM / IP Logged  

No, running two sets is never the way to go.  You should be able to mod the 6.5's into place in those openings.  The few Hz extra they provide will be welcome at the 80 Hz crossover point with the sub.

Modding the door's inner panel is easier than cutting the sheet metal to fit the back of the speaker through, but do one or the other.  And be sure to use plenty of damping on all sheet metal surfaces in the door...ultra important for that 60 to 100 Hz range.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

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