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car aerial, grounding the headunit.


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davemk7 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: October 18, 2005
Location: Ireland
Posted: August 11, 2009 at 6:52 AM / IP Logged  

hi fella's ,

i recently had headunit probs , and tracked it down to a bad ignition harness. which i have replaced. ( today )

everything now works as it should, no problem there. although there is something that has me bothered a bit.

after having a bad ignition harness, my battery kept dying as the headunit was taking too much power.

i.e - i could switch on and off the unit without the key in the ignition ( wasnt able to before ) and it was draining the battery

after a period of 3 days i couldnt actually start the car.

today, i cut into my ground wire on the headunits wiring loom , and added a switch so i could kill the current when i wanted to. ( longterm parking in airport = dead battery )

by adding the killswitch, i could just flick the switch , stop the stereo from consuming precious amps , and i'd be able to start my car.

anyways, i added this switch because im still paranoid about the battery going flat , even though the ignition harness has been fixed.

better safe than sorry.

anyways, i connected everything up , speaker and power were fine, connected my rca cables - front, sub, rear and also

connected the remote switch for the 2 amps so they'd power up once the headunit was switched on. i then connected the car aerial to the headunit.

this is where i noticed that my killswitch didnt work, regardless of the position, ( on or off ) the stereo was remaining powered up and working.

i figured out that the car aerial connection is providing a seperate ground to the headunit.

so even if i never connected the ground wire on the pioneer harness, my headunit would still work due to the aerial providing the ground.

i just want to know is this a fault? should my aerial provide a ground to the headunit ?

it basically voids my idea of having a killswitch in the first place. i could drive around and just use the cd player, but i'd like the radio to

be in use also.

any comments, questions, or anything else is greatly appreciated. i have an nct ( car test , ireland ) in the next few days and i'd like the car to be ready

as they'd think something was wrong with it if i didnt have the stereo fitted.

thanks.

live by the ford,die by the ford.
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,674
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 11, 2009 at 7:01 AM / IP Logged  
It is normal for the radio to ground through the antenna wire.  You must interrupt the constant voltage going to the deck. If it is an aftermarket radio, it will be the yellow wire of the radio. 
Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
davemk7 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: October 18, 2005
Location: Ireland
Posted: August 11, 2009 at 8:56 AM / IP Logged  

i am an idiot wrote:
It is normal for the radio to ground through the antenna wire.  You must interrupt the constant voltage going to the deck. If it is an aftermarket radio, it will be the yellow wire of the radio. 

hi bud, thanks for the reply  :)

this pic is just to give a better understanding of what im at :

ford escort mk7 , euro model , year 2000.

car aerial, grounding the headunit. -- posted image.

i undertand what your saying, i really should have tapped into the yellow wire first.

but i went with the ground, as this stops all current from flowing. never thought that the aerial connection was grounded :(

anyways :

i opened up my aerial connection. i found that the connector has raised sections which make contact with the bare metal of the roof.

car aerial, grounding the headunit. -- posted image.

searching my shed, i found a rubber washer.

car aerial, grounding the headunit. -- posted image.

i then put a rubber washer over the contacts, and tightened up the connection again.

is this ok to do?

does the radio connection really need to be grounded ?

the killswitch works perfectly now, and ive noticed that i dont get any clicking noise when i put up the volume.

( if i turned the knob up , each time it'd 'click' or make a 'pop' noise )

i also dont get much hiss from the radio stations. it was worse before-hand. in fact, the stereo never sounded better or cleaner.

even the cd player has improved , especially the bass. 

cheers for the reply and thanks for future posts  :)

live by the ford,die by the ford.
sparkie 
Platinum - Posts: 2,061
Platinum spacespace
Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: August 11, 2009 at 12:30 PM / IP Logged  
You are going about this the wrong way. As previously mentioned, you need to open the battery feed to the radio. The antenna must be grounded for proper radio reception. You have effectively cut your reception in half by doing what you have done. You could damage your headunit doing it your way. The radio will try and find a ground path if it can, such as through RCA cables. This can result in circuits drawing to much current and harming them. Unless your vehicle sits for months on end without running, the batery feed to your radio won't kill your battery.It probably only draws one or two milliamps. To make sure that you don't have any problems, do a battery draw test on your vehicle.
sparky
davemk7 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: October 18, 2005
Location: Ireland
Posted: August 11, 2009 at 1:06 PM / IP Logged  
sparkie wrote:
You are going about this the wrong way. As previously mentioned, you need to open the battery feed to the radio. The antenna must be grounded for proper radio reception. You have effectively cut your reception in half by doing what you have done. You could damage your headunit doing it your way. The radio will try and find a ground path if it can, such as through RCA cables. This can result in circuits drawing to much current and harming them. Unless your vehicle sits for months on end without running, the batery feed to your radio won't kill your battery.It probably only draws one or two milliamps. To make sure that you don't have any problems, do a battery draw test on your vehicle.
hey sparkie,
thanks for the info.
the reason i went with adding the killswitch to the ground wire originally , was because the switched power and continuous power lines were both giving 100% power to the headunit at all times.
this was due to a faulty ignition harness.
my car was like this for the past 2 mths untill i changed out the ignition harness. my battery couldn't start the car after 3 days if it was left idle. although there was power left in the battery, it wasnt enough to last a week before it was completely dead.
i got a guy to check the car, and he said that it was the headunit that was sucking 99% of the power from the battery. the other 1% was the immobiliser light.
but i think alot of that has to do with the car battery, as its only a 41ah varta piece of junk.
the guy i got to check my car told me he'd like to see at least a battery with 50ah in it. my car is a 1.4 petrol.
regardless, i made the mistake of going with the ground wire.
i made the decision to do this before i asked the question on here.
i never thought that the aerial connection would actually ground the whole headunit. and i doubt that most people actually know that this is the case. well, most people like me, i.e - can do their own d.i.y wiring and change out the odd headunit.
anyways, i'll change it over.
thanks for the info.
live by the ford,die by the ford.
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,674
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 11, 2009 at 6:59 PM / IP Logged  
The current draw on the yellow wire is nearly nothing.  But the fact that the switched wire has power on it all the time could be your problem.  Does the radio stay lit up when you turn it off?  If so, you can install the switch on the red wire of the radio.  I would at least try that first.  If you interrupt the Yellow wire you will have to reset all radio stations and sound controls every time you kill the switch.
Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
davemk7 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: October 18, 2005
Location: Ireland
Posted: August 11, 2009 at 9:31 PM / IP Logged  
i have to make it clear that the wiring has been sorted out, i fitted the ignition harness yesterday and i do not have the current draw problem anymore.
im fitting the switch as a " just in case ", because i spent the last 2 months crossing my fingers everytime i got in my car to start it.
its for my own peace of mind really.
as you can see, the ground wire , in my mind, was the better option
to splice off from as it covered the whole connection with just one wire.
but having been told that what ive done is a no no, im going to change it out in the morning.
well, im going to contact avi ltd, as they have fixed pioneer units for me before and they are good chaps. im just going to explain my situation regarding the aerial ground and see what he has to say.
if i can, i'd prefer to stick with the way ive done it, as its easier and less of a headache. but if there is a chance of me damaging my headunit by what ive done by shielding the ground connection on the aerial itself , then i need to change it.
live by the ford,die by the ford.

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