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alero stereo

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luismond 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: August 25, 2009 at 3:02 AM / IP Logged  

Hi guys

I'm trying to install a stock Alero stereo, I got the wiring diagram  from diferent sources but none of them are clear about the ignition wire, They all say (Class 2 Data)

Does anybody know what that mean?

Thanks a lot

Luis

i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,672
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 25, 2009 at 5:18 AM / IP Logged  
That radio does not have an ignition wire.  It is turned on by the vehicle's computer.  The computer sends a data signal to the radio to tell it that it is Ok to turn on.  Not saying it is not going to work for you, but not easily.  There are manufacturers that make wiring harnesses that convert the data to ignition wire output.  Not so sure there is a large enough market for them to build it in reverse form.
Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
luismond 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: August 26, 2009 at 1:12 AM / IP Logged  

Well… good to know all this. The truth is that I got a 2003 S10 that came with a JVC stereo with detachable face, and I hate that because I got to carry it or hide the face every time I park if I don’t want to jeopardize my windows or door locks.

On my quest for a good stock radio that fit my truck I liked this one from a 2003 Alero, it got a good display and I guess it will sound a lot better than a S10 radio.
Now I see it’s not easy, but there must be a way to bypass that computer data. There must be a point on the circuit board that feed the device with 12volts
Do you have any leads?
Another thing is that with only connecting the radio to the main 12V input (orange- BLACK/ white) it warms up a little on the amplifiers side and eats 0.67 amps, and to my knowledge, unless the computer data corrects that, it’s not normal.
Please let me know if I’m wrong
Thanks in advance
Luis

i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,672
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 26, 2009 at 8:45 PM / IP Logged  
It is not normal for the radio to draw that much current with only constant and ground connected.  It is also not normal for the deck to heat up like that.  There is a problem with the Output Chip. 
Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
luismond 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: August 27, 2009 at 12:14 AM / IP Logged  

OK, it may be a bad stereo, I only paid $20 for it, at a  flea market. Only one more question.

Do you think it is worth it to get it fixed or I should forget it?

Thanks a lot

Luis

i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,672
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 27, 2009 at 12:59 AM / IP Logged  

I really think you need to cut your losses at 20 dollars.  Even if your S-10 was a class 2 data vehicle and the radio had the same exact plug, it would still require a 70 + dollar trip to the dealer to program the radio to work with your vehicle's computer.

Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB
luismond 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: August 28, 2009 at 1:13 AM / IP Logged  

Thank you very much.

I should have gotten into this forum before, but it's OK I din't loose a fortune.

If you know of a good quality stock radio CD player (double din) that could work in a S10 let me know.

luismond 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: August 29, 2009 at 4:03 PM / IP Logged  

Maybe I don't have to loose the money if I exchange the Alero stereo for another one.

I'm thinking about any other make than GM that is not THEF LOCK or VIN coded, I really don't care which one, Volvo, Ford, Chrysler, Honda, Toyota, VW, etc., which ever have a flat double din face radio CD player is ok for me. I can take care of the bracket, that's not a problem. And if  the display is GM green like would be great.

What would you recommend?

Thank you all very much in advance.

Luis

luismond 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: August 30, 2009 at 11:30 PM / IP Logged  

My friends

I solved the problem already. I got a double din plug & play toyota stereo that exchanged for the Alero stereo, I only paid $40 more, so total $60 alero stereo -- posted image..  Good enough sound. My truck can sleep outside safe and I can sleep alero stereo -- posted image. or work alero stereo -- posted image. in peace.

It really upsets me alero stereo -- posted image. when companies try to take your money with dirty maneuvers like Gm does with those VIN coded stereos and I find the way out of their clutches.

luismond 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: August 25, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: September 06, 2009 at 5:32 PM / IP Logged  

I fabricated new brackets, erased toyota name and painted a Chevrolet emblem.

Take a look at the pictures

alero stereo -- posted image.

alero stereo -- posted image.

alero stereo -- posted image.

alero stereo -- posted image.

alero stereo -- posted image.

alero stereo -- posted image.


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