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Amp questions


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AccentShow 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: April 08, 2003 at 7:18 PM / IP Logged  
Hey everyone...just wondering a couple things. Thinking about getting an amp to power my front and rear mids and highs. I would like to do all of them on one amp, the front speakers are 55 watts rms, the rear are 125 rms. The rear speakers are a component set with their own crossovers. Was also wondering if I'd need or should get a 3 way crossover for my sub, mids and highs. I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent, I do have pics of my setup on cardomain, but I'm in the process of redoing it with updated pics. If you'd like the web addy pm me. Thanks again.
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esmith69 
Gold - Posts: 1,511
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Joined: November 26, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: April 08, 2003 at 9:09 PM / IP Logged  

That head unit has separate preamp outputs for the fronts, rears, and subs, so you do not need a crossover.  I'm curious as to how your sub is hooked up now?  It should be hooked up to the non-fading preamp outputs on the back of your head unit--this way you can control the volume and cutoff frequency for the subs up at the dash.

What you need to power the other speakers is a 4-channel amp.  Assuming you just used speaker harnesses and the factory wiring for the front speakers and the rear components, all you need to do is run 8 speaker wires (positive and negative for each speaker location) up to the deck.  Cut the speaker output wires going from the deck, and tape off the ends going into the back of the deck.  Connect the ends that lead to wires going into the vehicle (or to a wiring harness), to those 8 speaker wires coming from the 4-channel amp.   You do not need to worry about the component speakers as they are run through their own crossover off of one signal output for each location.

Assuming a wiring harness adapter like the Metra 70-7301 was used, all you need to do is hook up the white, grey, purple, and green wires on the harness to the amplifier speaker wires.  Left front is white and WHITE/ black, right front is grey and grey/black, left rear is green and GREEN/ black, and right rear is purple and PURPLE / black.

Just a lil note:  sometimes amplifiers will have their speaker outputs listed as "A" and "B" or "1" and "2".  I always use A for the front speakers and B for the rear speakers, or 1 for the fronts and 2 for the rears.  Just make sure when you're adjusting the settings on the amplifier that you adjust the settings for the correct channels. 

AccentShow 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: April 09, 2003 at 10:44 AM / IP Logged  
Ok, I didn't know exactly how you would hook it up. I do have my sub hooked up through the sub output. Just a couple other questions, I know I'm going to have to get a distribution block for both my ground and power wire, but would I need or would it be a good idea to get a capacitor?? I'm also planning to put in Police strobes in the car this summer. I don't think my alternator could handle a optima yellow top battery. My other question is what size amp to get?? Any help is greatly appreciated, everyone on here, is great on info. Thanx again.
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AccentShow 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: April 12, 2003 at 12:42 PM / IP Logged  
ok still need some help everybody, with Front and Rear preouts, which one do I hook the amp up to? I want to get one amp to power my front and rear speakers. The other question, what size amp will I need? also would a capacitor be a good idea if so what size? Right now I have a mono block sub amp powering my sub. Let me know, thank you everyone!
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esmith69 
Gold - Posts: 1,511
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Joined: November 26, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: April 12, 2003 at 5:25 PM / IP Logged  

Assuming you're talking about using  a 4-channel amp to power front and rear speakers, you'll actually use BOTH the front and rear preouts of the deck.  Thus you'll need two RCA cables.  The amplifier should have two sets of RCA inputs, and like I said before, they're sometimes called "A" and "B" or "1" and "2".  Doesn't matter which one goes to front and which one goes to rear, as long as you're consistent with how you do the amp settings for each set of outputs.

Ok first of all, wait and til you have the 2nd amp installed and running before getting a cap.  Cuz if your vehicle ends up having no problems handling the extra load, then there's no reason to get a cap and it will not really do anything for you.  I wouldn't be surprised though if your headlights start to dim when the bass hits really hard.  This is usually a sign that your charging system is being pushed to (and possibly past) it's limits, and you should take action.  That could mean upgrading the chassis ground cable that goes directly to the battery, or installing a capacitor, or maybe even getting a high output alternator.

Technically you would be best off getting a high output alternator rather than a cap.  There have been MANY MANY posts and discussions/arguments about this and some will swear by caps and some will swear by HO alternators.  General consensus seems to be that although a cap might fix the problem of dimming head lights, etc., by using one you're putting excessive wear on your alternator.

Now whether or not that means your alternator kicks the bucket at 10k miles, 40k miles, 150k miles, or maybe even not at all, is a totally different issue and one that can be argued either way.  Unfortuntately it's the kind of thing that's basically impossible "prove" or "disprove", and there's not just one right answer.

If you have the money, upgrading your alternator is the best way to go but not everyone has all that extra cash just lying around.  And it's up to you to decide whether or not it's worth that extra money to you.  If it is, or if you might add on more stuff to your system in the future, then I highly recommend upgrading your alternator.

If you don't have the money and just want a quick and relatively inexpensive fix, get a cap (1 farad will do).  Just be aware of the possible long-term side effects of using them.  But like I said, before you go and buy either one of these things, wait til your system is fully installed and see how your charging system handles the extra load.

There really are so many good 4 channel amps out there so it's really hard to pick a certain one, or even narrow it down to 2 or 3, without a lil more info.  Such as how much are you willing to spend on the amp?   Do you think you might ever add another set of speakers and another amplifier to your system in the future?

AccentShow 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: April 13, 2003 at 8:07 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the info, I thought about getting a HO Alternator, but I haven't been able to find one for my car. I'm pretty happy with the system I have now, I have the one 10 for bass which is good enough, and I just upgraded all the other speakers. What I'm wondering with the amp is what size to get. I doesn't really matter about company or anything, I just want to know what wattage amp to get. Thanks again for all the info.
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esmith69 
Gold - Posts: 1,511
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Joined: November 26, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: April 13, 2003 at 12:24 PM / IP Logged  
I'd say look for one that puts out between 50 and 75 watts RMS per channel, @ 4 ohms
Idg4ever 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 31, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: April 13, 2003 at 3:14 PM / IP Logged  

why are you waisting so much money on a car with so little value...  reminds me of waynes world..  i would suggest get a nice ride and then worring about everything else..

about the HO alternator.. its a really good idea..  i have one in my corrado and its great...  but why upgrade a car that wont last 100k miles..

optima batteries are a great upgrade...

QuinnX1 
Copper - Posts: 60
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 09, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: April 14, 2003 at 8:29 AM / IP Logged  
I love it when people get on here and say stuff like "Dude your sounds are worth more than the car", but what makes me mad is they don't seem to offer to help pay for a new car.
That car should and will like any other new car make it to and past 100k miles.
I have a 86 K-5 blazer and people always ask me why don't you get a newer one. I laugh and tell them it just wouldn't be cost effective right now. My engine is worth more than the truck!
Have fun with your car. What ever make and model it may be. It's yours!
QuinnX1
IDG4EVER wrote:

why are you waisting so much money on a car with so little value...  reminds me of waynes world..  i would suggest get a nice ride and then worring about everything else..

about the HO alternator.. its a really good idea..  i have one in my corrado and its great...  but why upgrade a car that wont last 100k miles..

optima batteries are a great upgrade...

wvsquirrel 
Gold - Posts: 1,237
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: July 27, 2002
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: April 14, 2003 at 10:21 AM / IP Logged  
Some people have different priorities, some have enough $'s to afford it all. Regardless of a members ride or system, everyone needs to respect the wishs of others. Most of us on this site are dedicated to continued learning, and the passing on of that knowledge to others. Don't make the12volt become like the rest of the sites where newer members are scared to ask questions because others will make them feel stupid. Respect your peers, their opinions, and their feelings. Anyone can jump on someone else and rip them to shreds, but it takes something different to teach. If your not willing to be accepting or respectful of other's opinions and choices, then go somewhere else.
Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
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