about my amps

Ok, so I recently posted a question about a custom ported box for my Kicker CVR 15's DVC 2ohm subs trying to figure out the dimensions, still never figured that part out. And in this post I mentioned how my sub amp was cutting out and someone figured out it was readin a 1 ohm load, which amp is only stable at 2 ohms. So we figured that problem out, then I went ahead and just wired my subs in stereo, because no bump at all is horrible, did not want to blow this amp. NOW Back to the topic: So everything has been fine with it up untill I bought a Pyramid Arctic 1000 watt 4channel amp for highs. In the back of my trunk, I have a distribution block for the power, I have a 4 guage power wire going into the block, but it splits out only for 8 guage wire(horrible but it did fine before). I have no problems with voltage drop or anything, but since I've started using this 1000 watt 4 ch amp for my highs throughout the car (still no prob with voltage, or dimming lights, stock wiring, no big3 upgrade.) I notice when I turn the volume up now to max, like I usually jam my stuff, my Subwoofer amp wants to cut out. I have not noticed yet if it is losing power and going into protect, I just always see the bass knob light go off and there is no more boom, but the 4ch amp for the highs continues to work after the sub amp quits. Now my question is, could it be the fuse under the hood? since I am only using one wiring kit that runs from battery to trunk into a distribution block? The fuse is only a 60 amp, and I was thinking that maybe it's just not enough to run the two amps all together, so it cuts the one amp off thats pulling the most power. On that note, I have turned the gain and bass boost on the sub amp down to pretty much nothing and I can turn it up all the way without it cutting out now, but its not really bumping like I like it to anymore and it saddens me lol. Any input? thanks guys

U should get ur amp checked at a repair shop, specifically the power supply, recently had the same issues with my amp cutting out after a few mins of bumpinMastermindz

The ground for the Pyramid amp is not a good one at all but left it alone because it worked. I had just grinded paint off of the metal trunk under the carpet and just did that. I know this needs to be changed. And no I have not removed the amp to try. But like I said the sub amp workes fine till that new amp was in. Next time it happens I will check to see if al power is lost or if its protected. To be honest I kept this sub amp wires down to 1 ohm even tho it dont support it, because it thumped so harf and sounded good and it always played fine till the amp got a lil hot. But when the pyramid amp was put in, it would automatically shut off and I was like oh crap I done pushed it to the limits of blowing, so i immidiately wired the sub amp and it still did same thing untill i turned gain and bass boost all the way down. Now could it be Maybe since the amps are sharing the same power, and the sub amp is grounded to frame but pyramid has bad ground and since sharing the same power, 1 good ground and 1 bad ground it could be causing an error? Still trying to learn this car audio stuff. What I really need to do is find a good amp for the subs but dont know where to look. Every amp I get for the subs i cant ever get full power to them. I suppose I will pull the pyramid amp out and try it. If problem stops then ... Heck IDK

I don't know what to say. I checked to see and the sub amp does go into protection mode, and its ground is to the chassis of the car, it is a good ground but the pyramid is not. I know that I may have damaged the sub amp, but even then it just seems weird to be giving me a problem just as soon as pyramid amp went in ... Next step is to pull it out and tes it again I guess

Anyone can suggest a good amp for these subs? All these over rated amps, I am tired of em lol. They are the Kicker Comp CVR 15" 2ohm DVC subs(2ofthem), 1000p/500RMS Would I be better off getting a Mono Block Amp? I know I need a 1 ohm stable amp, because I'd like to run them down to 1 ohm, they sound nice there. Trying to be the cheapest I can be but so far in the long run had I just got a expensive one I'd be happy lol. thanks

It seems you have much to learn, young padawan... The impedance of the drivers will have nothing to do with how they sound... Already mentioned as well, fuses aren't "smart". Common, or "star" grounding is MUCH smarter than independent ground points. A single, good quality amp, rated 1000 watts into either 2-ohms or 1-ohm will be a good choice for you. The Alpine PDX1.1000 is 1kW into 2-ohms, and is a fantastic quality amp. Take a look there.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Learning I am. ehehehhe Lol thanks for the help