short list of orion hcca's

Ok Haem, thank you. Let me get to the nuts and bolts of this. I will need a couple of answers that can hopefully be found through this one thread;

I am probably slightly older than most on this site so I have an affinity for the old stuff. Rockford, Orion, Soundstream, Memphis, H / K,etc.  they don't make what they used to. In fact, I don't think they make anything (China). And I don't have the money it takes to buy anything current that does what I'm looking for. That being said, Here's what I have;

Memphis ST1300D( the one with the airplane up in the corner), 180amp fuse rating. This will push my 3-way components off the A/B side, and my super burly 8's off the D side.

I also have a DC Audio XL12 with dual 2 ohm voice coils rated at 1500 rms. This is what I want to put the HCCA 2100 to. I can't really get a lock on what the fuse rating for this one is though. I notice people upsizing due to Orion's aftermarket recommendation. I assume it's got to be somewhere around 180 too. From your post (Haem) it sounds like the 2100 can easily deal with a 1 ohm load, and I'm pretty sure my sub can handle the power. My problem now is I drive an Audi A4 and I can't find any alternators bigger than 220. Said alt delivers 120 amps @ idle, full power at 1,250 rpm. So that's what I'm working with. I guess I want to know if I can run the Memphis and the Orion (gains set to 1/3) with the aforementioned alternator, 0awg big three, extra battery, and a decent power cap even though I can't stand caps. And once in awhile, I like to turn it up.

I hope this isn't too fragmented. I mentioned names not for plugs or traffic but because You need to know the manufacturers claims are reasonably close to what they state. Thank you. 

Ok, I have narrowed down the 2100 to 3 generations. I want to know what the differences are between these three amps. I've done some research and so far it's somewhat inconclusive. Do they all push 1600 rms at 1 ohm? Or is it just the 3rd gen? Orion has a site where this information "should" be, but it's all a bunch of spammers and people that can't spell. Thank you again.

Thank you, Haem! Here's why I'm asking so many questions; I wanted to go with an HCCA because they are unregulated, (right)? I was hoping to eventually (maybe not with this car) feed it enough voltage to power my 12" sub. However, I don't want to drop the ohm level so low as to make the amp all hot and uncomfortable. I don't want shutdown or permanent damage.

Here's my problem, I have a DC Audio XL12 (d2). It's rated at 1500 rms. I have a pair of this same company's Level 2 8's and I can assure you with the utmost confidence that the 1500 rms to 3000 max rating is unbelievably conservative, When I got my 8's I thought they were frozen; very stiff suspension. Same with the 12. Anyways, I wanted to be able to convert my whole system to HCCA amps, (again, probably with a different car). But I don't think the 2100 is up to the task and I can't afford to put one on each voice coil. My ohms aren't low enough for that to work anyways.

So I guess it's back to the drawing board.

I just re-read and realized what you said about running the 225 at a 1/2 ohm bridged. Holy crap! (A nod to Ravendarat as well).

I just got into a situation where I'm probably going to aquire the HCCA 2100 "Competition Amplifier", and the 225 "Digital Reference". Can you tell me what DR means? The reds all seem to change a little with each subsequent generation. This was mostly the info I wanted from this post (well why didn't you say so in the first place). I want to know what I'm looking at when I see things like DR, or Competition, etc. Thank you again!