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2003 Mustang, Remote Wire


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Karridy 
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Member spacespace
Joined: March 20, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: May 02, 2003 at 8:47 AM / IP Logged  

I am trying to find a good source for the remote wire for my 2003 Mustang. I am keeping the factory CD player, and would prefer not to pull it out if there is something else I can tap. All of the fuses I tried last night stayed hot, and therefore kept it on full time. Maybe I can tap the remote wire from the back of the radio witout removing it?

If you can help PLEASE let me know!!!

Thanks,

Karridy

karridy@karridy.com

esmith69 
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Posted: May 02, 2003 at 11:12 AM / IP Logged  

Late model mustangs have been known for their quirky remote wires--sometimes they use low voltage wires to turn on the factory amps, in which case you have to use an adapter like this one in order to send a proper remote signal to aftermarket components.  It varies from year to year and sometimes only happens with the mach audio system, but it's something to keep in mind.

If you're not powering on more than one aftermarket component, you should be able to use the +12 volt switched wire that goes to the radio's harness.  If there's more than one plug going in to the back of the radio, the wire you're looking for should be in the same plug as the +12 volts constant and the ground wire.   I do not remember what color wire it is but all you need to do is break out a multimeter and check for approx. 12 volts when the key is in the "accessory" position.  If you have the right wire, the voltage will go away as soon as you remove the key from the ignition.

At least that's what I'd recommend doing, but make sure you thoroughly test all wires beforehand.  And if you can get your hands on a reverse harness that would make your job a lot easier.

Ethan
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"Patience, persistence, and perspiration make an unbeatable combination for success"
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racemyski 
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Joined: July 03, 2003
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Posted: July 04, 2003 at 12:02 AM / IP Logged  
i have a 2002 GT convertible with the mach 460 and made the mistake of using the12volt.com's wiring diagram posting.... the BLACK/ pink wire on the largest harness of the stock radio/cd is supplying my JL Audio 250/1. When the inline fuse is installed for the amplifier, the stock CD player will turn on without the key in the ignition. It seems that the BLACK/ pink wire might be a switched power supply after all, but i'm not sure how the amplifier would send power to the CD player and make it turn on. Any ideas?
esmith69 
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Posted: July 04, 2003 at 2:22 PM / IP Logged  

Actually it sounds like you made the mistake of not verifying the wires with a multimeter:-p

I'm kind of confused as to what you mean when you say that the wire is "supplying my JL Audio 250/1".  I REALLY REALLY hope you don't mean you're using that stock wire for the amplifier's main power ("BATT", "+12V") cable connection!!!!!   The JL amp needs to have a direct connection to the positive battery terminal; there are no existing factory wires that you can use for this connection.

Now the remote turn on wire for the amp is another story, since it draws barely any current you can tap in to the same wire that the radio uses for it's own turn-on.  There should be a wire that shows approx. 12 volts when the key is in the ACC or ON position, but no voltage when the car is off.  This is the wire that you can use to connect the JL amp's turn-on ("REM", "AMP CONTROL", "TURN ON", "SYS CONTROL") connection.  This way, whenever you have the car turned on the amplifier will also turn on; but when you turn your car off the amp, just like the radio, will turn off automatically to prevent your battery from being run down.

And just to clarify, when I say "tap in to the wire" I mean to leave it intact, but just strip off about an inch of insulation, within 5 or 6 inches of the plug end.  Then twist your remote turn on wire around the newly-exposed section of the factory wire, and solder the connection.  Finish by wrapping it up with some electrical tape.

Ethan
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racemyski 
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Posted: July 04, 2003 at 9:05 PM / IP Logged  
I would be the dummy for not testing my wires first.... didnt have a multimeter available at the time.
FYI : I'm not a pro, but i'm not an idiot..... i did run 4 gauge cable for the JL amp for its primary power source. Anybody else had problems with a late model mustang? Like i said before... my radio stays hot with the12volt.com's BLACK/ pink remote wire recommendation. The radio sucks power thru the amp's constant supply from the battery, and uses it regardless of the ignition switch. Very frustrating... recommend NOT using the BLACK/ pink wire for a 12v remote source. Perhaps i'll have to dig deeper. Anybody heard/used a JL 10w6 stealthbox in a stang? I'll let you know how it turns out when i get this stupid remote problem fixed. 2003 Mustang, Remote Wire -- posted image.
esmith69 
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Posted: July 04, 2003 at 10:13 PM / IP Logged  

Sorry didn't mean to imply that I thought you didn't know what you were doing...I was just confused as to what you originally meant.  No harm intended, and hopefully no harm done.

anyways, the next thing I would try if I were you would be to tape off BLACK/ pink wire, and instead use the amp's +12V battery connection to "jump" the remote turn-on terminal, just for temporary testing purposes.  If the radio continues to act funky even with the wires all essentially back to their original factory condition, then something very odd is going on.  If undoing the connection to the BLACK/ pink wire causes it to perform normally then I'd say you need to find a different wire to use as the remote turn on.   There are many switched power wires in the ignition harness that shouldn't affect how the radio operates.

Ethan
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"Patience, persistence, and perspiration make an unbeatable combination for success"
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racemyski 
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Posted: July 05, 2003 at 4:20 PM / IP Logged  
No worries bud.... i DID try the pink/black wire again..... I am the idiot. It seems that the problem is my JL 250/1 stays on to drain the capacitor for about 15 seconds. I was thinking that the amp was staying hot and powering the radio, but its actually the cap draining. It cuts off after a while. This was a rough install, but that was from not having proper tools or patience. Both are essential! I'd like to rescind my earlier statement..... BLACK/ pink wire is the one to go for! The stealthbox sounds great, but with only 300 watts of power it doesnt have a lot of punch with the convertible top down. Any suggestions?

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