2006 Tundra Double Cab Stereo System Plan

Hi, first post here but I've been reading the site for some time. There is a wealth of information in the site. Thank you to all the contributors. I recently moved to Colorado and had to part with my beloved 2003 Tundra access cab. It was a great truck, I'm about to drive it back home to texas to sell it because no one here wants a 2wd truck. Anyway I had a kenwood single din hu with a kicker 350.4 amp -> focal vrs 165 components in stock speaker positions + focal krs 165 coaxials in the rear doors. Also did a kicker 750.1 powering 2 8" polk momo subs in one of those q-logic formed boxes that fit under the passenger side seat. I had some dynamat on the insides of the doors and behind the door panels. Anyway, it sounded pretty ok. I want something way better for my new truck. So my new truck is a 2006 Tundra double cab. More room for audio. I pulled everything out of the 03 (except for the HU, replaced all speakers with some Apline type s coaxials i had lying around). So I want to use the focals in the new truck - in stock speaker positions. The 06 has tweeter positions in the front low corners of the side windows. I'm thinking of making a fiberglass enclosure for the focal woofers. they are like 5 3/4 inches i believe. What are your thoughts on enclosures for 5 or 6" door speakers? I purchased a used Pioneer X930BT for the HU of the new truck. It currently has an alpine BT single din. it's slow. SO - for the subs - I'm thinking of 2 or 3 (can't decide) 8" subs under the rear seats, plus 1 10" sub in between the front seats. This would make me lose my center console, or parts of the center console, if i blended fiberglass into parts of the console. I'm thinking about using the console as a mold. The 10 would be downward firing. My other option is to cut a section of the floor out and weld a steel box that hangs below. Steel grate to cover the cone and then lay the carpet back in place. The saves me my center console and is totally stealth. However it's a pretty serious modification and I am not the best welder. I do have a welding class coming up so we will see how my skills are after that. JL makes a premade box that comes with a sub in it but i just don't think it's would be enough. I want something that is extremely rigid and airtight. Possibly with some modifications the JL box could be sealed and strong enough but may not be large enough for some of the bigger 10's. Is three 8 inch subs and one 10 sub too much? I'm thinking two ED 8" subs, and one ED 10" sub will do it pretty well. ED 8" sub ED 10" sub Here are pics. Under the rear seats for the 8s. Might have to pound out some of the metal for more airspace. May trim quite a bit of the metal lip to open the are up. Then fiberglass the inside of the compartments and MDF for the top. Seal fiberglass to MDF somehow. What is the best way to make sure fiberglass box is very securely attached to the vehicle? The xmax of the 8s is 14mm so less than an inch. Clearance to the seat bottom will be tight. i might have to remove the seat bottom modify to make more space. How much room from the woofer to an object does one need? Seat bottoms that may need modification to allow room for woofers to move air Space under seats with seats down: Center console - modify to fit over or make part of, sit on top of a fiberglass box with the downward firing 10: Under turck - Compartment area - would be bashed to increase volume: This is looking towards the front of the truck. between the frame crossmember and the body crossmember under the heat shield is where i could cut the floor and weld a drop down steel box: That was the driver side. The passenger side might have more room: What do y'all think? Any tips? Thanks for reading.

i like how you think man, not many people would consider cutting out the floor just for a few 8 inch subs. i respect that

ok, first off, i wouldn't mix sub sizes mainly because it would be hard to make them sound correct. you would have to design both boxes so that they perform the same way or else you will have to deal with different response curves for the same frequency band. it will probably sound somewhat sloppy and give you a better chance of blowing subs because it will make it harder to hear distortion from any one sub.  i would stay with all 8 inch subs personally.

jave you measured how much airspace you have availiable in that under seat compartment? it would be pretty easy to make a full fiberglass box to fit in that space and flush mount the subs so that they have no chance of hitting the seats.

you can also modify the back part of the center console to take another 8 and all you would have to lose are the rear cup holders.

Thanks for the input. I was thinking of having the 8's only respond to the higher end of the bass frequency, and the 10 only respond to the lower end, with some overlap in between. But you do make a good point.