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no audio after battery died/recharged


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qckslvr 
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Joined: December 06, 2012
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 13, 2012 at 8:46 AM / IP Logged  
I have an '04 Chrysler Pacifica with RBP radio option (AM/FM/CD/Tape), optional 6-disc CD/DVD changer, and rear-mounted video. It's all factory installed, and has all worked perfectly since new. I am the original owner.
Recently, the car sat idle for a month while I was away. When I returned, the battery was dead. I recharged it overnight, and the next morning it started without problem. The radio, however, now produces no sound. It powers up correctly, and displays station info., presets, etc, but without audio. Also, the steering wheel- mounted radio controls are now inoperative, and the radio no longer accesses the 6-disc changer/DVD system.
Fuses are good, nothing was loose or unplugged or physically damaged in any way. I had the radio bench- tested, and was told it was fine. I swapped the amp. with a used unit, and it made no difference. If anyone has any thoughts as to what else could be at fault, I'd appreciate hearing them. Thanks.
Ray
DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: December 13, 2012 at 12:54 PM / IP Logged  
Hmm. I know nothing about the audio system in your vehicle, but if the head and the amp both bench test as good then the logical issue is either power related (have you tested the voltage at the amp?) or a speaker is shorted putting the amp into protection mode. Also, does the vehicle have hands-free cell phone integration, so maybe it is locked into mute mode?
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i am an idiot 
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Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: December 13, 2012 at 5:59 PM / IP Logged  
How did you bench test the radio? I am pretty sure that there is not a switched wire on that deck.
qckslvr 
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 13, 2012 at 8:38 PM / IP Logged  
I did not personally bench-test the radio. I removed it and brought to a high-end audio shop nearby for testing. Cost me $35 to find out it wasn't the cause of the problem. That was after sourcing a replacement amplifier. At least the boneyard let me try the replacement first, so I didn't have to actually buy that to find out it wasn't the problem. I was hoping it could have been that simple. I would have gladly replaced either if one or the other turned out to be bad.
Ray
i am an idiot 
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Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: December 13, 2012 at 9:27 PM / IP Logged  
As DYohn already asked, did you make sure the amplifier is getting power. There is at least one wire that should have constant 12 volts. It will probably be one of the larger wires in the harness.
When they tested the radio, did they let you hear it?
qckslvr 
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Joined: December 06, 2012
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 14, 2012 at 7:23 PM / IP Logged  
With apologies to DYohn - I neglected to answer his response in the correct sequence.
No, my car does not have hands-free cellphone integration, and a shorted speaker would seem unlikely since everything worked properly before the battery died.
No, I was not able to hear the radio when it was bench-tested. I took their word that they tested it properly and that it was good.
Yes, I have been able to verify that there is power at the amp. There are two connectors for the amp.; one is 18-pin, and the other is 12-pin. On the 18, I have 12V at two of the pins. Both are hot with ignition on or off.
On the 12, I have 12V on one pin with ignition on, whether the radio is on or off. Curiously, I have what appears to be 6V (honest!) on four of the pins, when both the ignition and radio are on.
I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram for this vehicle on-line yet, so I don't really know what I've found or what to do with this info. yet. At least I know I have power back to the amp.
Ray
i am an idiot 
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Posted: December 14, 2012 at 8:40 PM / IP Logged  
Do you have an old pair of computer speakers that you can sacrifice? If so, cut the 1/8 inch jack off of the cable that feeds the speakers. Strip that cable to expose the Shield and the 2 center conductors. Ground the shield to the chassis of the vehicle, and touch one of the center conductors into each pin of the harness. The radio turned on and the volume turned up a bit. If there is audio coming out of your deck you should be able to hear it out of the computer speakers. You will have to provide them with 110 volts.
There should be 8 wires with 6 volts, these are the speaker wires coming out of the amp.
qckslvr 
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Joined: December 06, 2012
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 15, 2012 at 9:39 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the advice, friend. I'll give that a shot today. As a clarification, I had tested the connectors while they were removed from the amplifier. I suppose that's why I only found four pins with 6V. I planned to test all the wiring with the connectors installed again today, anyway. I suspect that I'll find the other four 6V wires at that time. Thanks again.
Ray
qckslvr 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2012
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 22, 2012 at 8:53 AM / IP Logged  
Update on "No Audio..." Problem:
Having searched many Forums and websites trying to get to the bottom of this problem, I was fortunate enough to hear from two gentlemen who provided me with schematics and pinout info. for my '04 Pacifica.
Armed with that info., I have been able to determine that I have all the proper voltage at both connectors to the amplifier, but only to one of the two connectors to the radio. The "Aux." connector still does not show any access to the 6-disc CD/DVD changer. Even though the radio has been given a clean bill-of-health by the audio shop that bench-tested it, it would appear that some internal circuitry within the radio may be at fault. My next step will be to try a replacement unit to see if that solves the problem.
Ray
cpowell1687 
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Joined: December 22, 2012
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: December 22, 2012 at 1:45 PM / IP Logged  
With those being only 6v I wonder if they are data controlled wires being a newer than 02 model car. That being the case I wonder if maybe something funky is going on with the bcm after losing power from the dead battery. If may not be sending the right info or sending it the right way anymore to the head or the amp. Data wires can do strange things when they get out of whack.
Just because you are finding wires with constant or accessory type voltage operation if I were you I would specifically identify the amp/system turn on wire and make sure it's getting power. All the voltage in the world won't help if it's not being told to turn on.
Last thing, does your amp have internal fusing? Some OEM amps do. Worth finding out and checking in lieu of trying a known good identical unit in its place.
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