alternator power screw

I do not know if this is in the right spot, but it is for my car stereo. I broke the screw that leads the power out of the alternator that you would attach your battery to. It should go inside the hole about 1 to 2 inches before it gets to the break. Can I just glew this back on somehow. I cannot solder it because it is inside the small hole for it. Also, should I try to get that piece out from inside or is that attached from the inside. I have a 2001 honda civic. Thanks.

so the bolt broke before you got it tightened down? if so you crossthreaded the bolt by not turning it in by hand to start it and will need a mechanic to tap out broken bolt.....glue aint gonna work.....or you can buy another alternator

Ditto - the bolt needs replacing. They also common break thru over-tightening - big electrics on small bolts.

tbone660 wrote: so the bolt broke before you got it tightened down? if so you crossthreaded the bolt by not turning it in by hand to start it and will need a mechanic to tap out broken bolt.....glue aint gonna work.....or you can buy another alternator

The screw doent turn. It is only meant to attach a nut on it to secure the power cable fr

The battery. Do I need to open the entire alternator to get it out? I'm not sure what you mean by cross threading the bolt? I just over tighten it and it feel off.

Disconnect the -ve terminal of the battery before playing with the alternator B+ (that goes to the battery). Those studs are usually bolts with the head inside the alternator. The first outer nut is its locking nut. They can usually be replaces reasonably easily depending on the alternator. Remove the alternator and removed its rear cover (usually 3 long screws). You should then see how to get to it.

oldspark wrote: Disconnect the -ve terminal of the battery before playing with the alternator B+ (that goes to the battery). Those studs are usually bolts with the head inside the alternator. The first outer nut is its locking nut. They can usually be replaces reasonably easily depending on the alternator. Remove the alternator and removed its rear cover (usually 3 long screws). You should then see how to get to it.

Ok thanks I got it out. I got the screws out and i kind of had try pry it apart. I see where the broken screw should connect to but it kind of stopped moving apart. I have it about an unch apart and i am afraid to keep pulling it apart. Do I need to undo the big bolt that is on the spiny pulley thing or just keep prying until it comes apart?

It might just be the bushes stuck in their groove... But check for other screws that might be holding diode arrays or regulators that are soldered to the stator or bush/brush holders. You should NOT have to remove the pulley end (that bolt is usually very difficult to remove) - the rear cover should be removable somehow to enable replacement services. (AFAIK, most alternators are still a "serviceable" item.) I wonder if the bolt composition is critical? Steel is a poor electrical conductor (is it ~7% that of copper?), but you could maybe feel for heat later... Whilst apart, see if you can check the remaining condition/length of the carbon bushes - maybe record their remaining length (usually from from an inscribed or marked wear limit indicator). I'll usually brighten up the slip-rings whilst I'm at it. (For commutated motors, I'll use steel-wool or v.fine grade emery-paper ensuring to remove ALL grit and being aware of "commutator undercut".

oldspark wrote: It might just be the bushes stuck in their groove... But check for other screws that might be holding diode arrays or regulators that are soldered to the stator or bush/brush holders. You should NOT have to remove the pulley end (that bolt is usually very difficult to remove) - the rear cover should be removable somehow to enable replacement services. (AFAIK, most alternators are still a "serviceable" item.) I wonder if the bolt composition is critical? Steel is a poor electrical conductor (is it ~7% that of copper?), but you could maybe feel for heat later... Whilst apart, see if you can check the remaining condition/length of the carbon bushes - maybe record their remaining length (usually from from an inscribed or marked wear limit indicator). I'll usually brighten up the slip-rings whilst I'm at it. (For commutated motors, I'll use steel-wool or v.fine grade emery-paper ensuring to remove ALL grit and being aware of "commutator undercut".

Well my life sucks and I have to remove that stupid pulley. I cannot get it off. I have tried so hard and checked every other way. Mine only opens in one way from the middle. I have tried prying up with a breaker bar, putting the belt on it and pulling really hard to get tension nothing. I need ideas on how to get it off. Are you sure there is no way to re attach that bolt?

You should not have to remove the pulley unless it's a bad or disposable design. It may be the rear bearing that is hard to release. Some have a pin hole thru the rear cover to enable a pin-punch to push out the shaft (armature). Otherwise try "wedging" it out - ie fwd & back sideways movements whilst pulling the cover off. Or maybe heating the cover... Ensure all screws are removed from the cover as well as the heavy B+ nuts and plastic insulators (take note of plastic & washer and nut order!). If there are heavy wires from the stator (central casing) to the rear section, then that whole rear section should pop out. It has to to enable brush & bearing replacement (unless it's a disposable aka non-serviceable design).