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dc amps different on different wires


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adurm 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: June 19, 2012
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: June 05, 2013 at 10:31 AM / IP Logged  

Hey guys. I've been having issues with an install and need some advice. I have a 2011 Hyundai Genesis coupe with the premium audio. Needless to say, the audio was not that premium. So I have replaced the stock speakers with Infinity Kappas and a Boston Acoustics 5 channel amp. I am not going for audiophile so please dont give me grief for keeping it on a budget. So I have the stock headunit (nav, BT, voice activation, XM) going to the stock amp to an audiocontrol LC7i LOC with bass restoration because the stock headunit stops increasing the bass at a certain point to protect the stock sub, which is out.

I have a cheap DMM and I was checking the DC amps on the terminals to the LOC. I might be doing this wrong, but I got some strange numbers. I put the neg lead on the LF- and the positive to the LF+ and the reading was like -50. Did the same to the RF and the reading was 0. The LR was around -40 and the RR was 110. The left and right sub channels were nearly equal around 40. And of course these numbers change with volume and with what is playing. These numbers were taken with relatively low volume and in quick succession. So obviously the weird ones are the RF and RR. Does it seem like something is miswired? I have full fade and balance control with no obvious problems. I think I need to rewire the whole thing. Is there a way I can find out exactly which wire is which?

I know that if I buy a new headunit and run RCAs, that would eliminate all of my problems. But I dont like the dash kit for my car and dont want to spend another $700 for a comparable headunit.

Any help that anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.

adurm 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: June 19, 2012
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: June 05, 2013 at 11:13 AM / IP Logged  

Let me add something to the info which may be pertinent:

The DMM was on DC amps 20. The readings all had a negative sign on them except the sub channels. One sub was pos and one was neg. The readings on the front and rears looked something like -0.50, except the RF was -0.01 and the RR was -1.10.

okay...GO! (please)

DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: June 05, 2013 at 1:03 PM / IP Logged  
What DC amps are you trying to read? If you are looking at speaker output, then you would want to read AC, and you'll get more useful information reading voltage not amps.
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adurm 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: June 19, 2012
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: June 05, 2013 at 2:00 PM / IP Logged  

I do not know if the amperage or voltage for that matter should be equal to all of the speakers from the stock amplifier. If I put it on DC volts, it usually reads 0.01 or something low like that. I would expect that all of the signals be equal or inverse opposites. See, I had to rewire the stock amp harness because like a rookie, I cut the wires too close. I am also somewhat color blind so browns and greens look very similar, same with blue and purp. So hooking the right wires back to the right place might be off. I am trying to find a way to track them back to their home.

I have to ask what should I be looking for to tell if I have it wired correctly? I think the speakers sound a bit tinny or out of phase even. If you tell me voltage, resistance or amp and tell me what to measure across I will do it without question. Wiring is not my strong suit.

So to refresh, I have the stock head unit sending speaker levels to a stock amp, the stock amp speaker level outs to a LOC, the LOC obviously sends RCA to the aftermarket amp.

Please keep the ideas coming and thank you for responding!

DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: June 05, 2013 at 4:31 PM / IP Logged  
You want to read AC volts, not DC volts. Audio is AC. But reading voltage will only tell you if there is a signal it will tell you nothing about speaker polarity if that's what you think may be wrong. You must verify that each + speaker terminal is wired to each + speaker output on your amp, and you must verify that each + speaker wire from your HU is wired to each + speaker input on the LOC.
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oldspark 
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Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: June 05, 2013 at 5:51 PM / IP Logged  
Lucky the amp wasn't blown... connecting outputs to a dead short.
Line outs will be more tolerant.
adurm 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: June 19, 2012
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: June 05, 2013 at 6:29 PM / IP Logged  
DYohn, ya that's what I need to do. Any tip on how to do this easily with basic tools? I know I can pull a pair of wires and hook them up to a speaker and fade and balance my way to get some sort of speaker location. probably not the best idea. Is there a way to tell if a wire from the head unit is pos or neg?
Oldspark, I am not sure the dead short you are referring to. I may have explained my situation improperly. Or I did and I got away with making a big electrical mistake.
Thanks for your input guys!
DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: June 05, 2013 at 7:06 PM / IP Logged  
You got away with making a big electrical mistake if you connected an amp meter across the terminals of an operating amplifier. Don't do that. :)
You should be able to identify POS and NEG speaker wires from your head unit by using the vehicle wire color codes. Check the wiring database using the links to the left. As far as the connections to your speakers, you should know what that is if you installed them, but if not you can check with a D-cell or 9-volt battery if you can see the speaker cones. Disconnect the speaker wires from your amplifier. Hold the speaker wires to the battery terminals and watch the woofer cone. If it moves "out" toward you, then the wire on the battery POS is connected to speaker POS. If it moves "in," then the wire on battery POS is connected to speaker NEG.
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adurm 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: June 19, 2012
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: June 05, 2013 at 7:23 PM / IP Logged  
Hmm, I don't know if I tested across the amp terminal or not. On the LOC it has phoenix type connections. The "L" shaped 4 port thingy with screws on each wire. I was touching the screws that hold the wires down.
Unfortunately, there is not a wiring guide for a 2011 Hyundai genesis coupe listed. I checked on gencoupe.com and I see a diagram for the stock amp harness, but it just has numbers in the AMP block, no colors listed.
I did some searching and people are saying that when using the DMM, put the red probe on what I think is pos and the black on what I think is neg. I should get a positive number if I have the right wires. If it was a negative shift, then the wires are crossed. Would you agree with that? Almost all of the readings I get are negative, which would make me think everything is wrong. It could be wrong going into the stock amp from the HU. But that should output proper polarity to the LOC where I am reading these odd negative numbers. I think I have a big project this weekend...
The wires from the aftermarket amp to the speakers are correct. I ran them all fresh from the amp all the way to the speakers. No stock wiring from amp to speaker.
Thanks again.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: June 06, 2013 at 2:16 AM / IP Logged  
As was said, amp/speaker outputs are AC so I too fail to see how you can get a + or - reading. It sounds like you researched caraudio forums which I have found often contain incredulous information (like the correct answer is often the opposite to what they say!).
A common test for speaker polarity is to use a 1.5V battery and see which way the cone deflects. (1.5V should be fine for any speaker of 3W and higher for 1 Ohm speaker impedance and above.)
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